September 15, 2014
Kilian Hennessy of By Kilian
In 2006 Kilian Hennessy launched a line called L'oeuvre Noire, which he added perfumes to until there were ten. The line was controversial, since a prevailing theme is addiction.
. Now, the arrival of a new collection from Kilian Hennessy’s By Kilian line is a return to this theme. . The collection, Addictive State of Mind, is composed around the aromas of smoke.
Light my Fire, Intoxicated, and Smoke for the Soul is based on tobacco, coffee and marijuana.
Cuban Women with Cigars, Photographer not known
Light my Fire, represents tobacco addiction,(a theme we know and love from 2009 Back to Black-Aphrodisiac). Robertet perfumer Sidonie Lancesseur, who has composed several perfumes for By Kilian, used a Monte Cristo cigar as inspiration. The aroma of cumin and hay, deepened with patchouli, plays well with the sweetness of a bit of honey and vanilla. Wearing this, I feel like I am cozied up with a handsome man having a good cigar with a couple of friends, filling the plush room with sweet smoke.
Notes: cumin, tedded (laid out to dry) hay, patchouli, vetiver, honey and vanilla.
Turkish Coffee Art, artist not knwn
Coffee is definitely addictive; many of us cannot function without a few mugs in the morning. Givaudan Senior Perfumer Calice Becker. inspired by Turkish coffee, created Intoxicated, which makes me want a rich cup of coffee.. I love cardamom, and that is the reigning note. In that concentration, it gives the fragrance a solid push into a green masculine, which recedes with time while the more heated spices come forward. The perfume has a solid lifespan and the spiced drydown is great.
Notes: green cardamom, nutmeg and powdered cinnamon.
Artist not known; found at Cannabisculture.com
You can’t make a collection like this without a cannabis perfume, and Smoke for the Soul, composed by Fabrice Pellegrin, represents that particular inhalant. It is also a bit difficult of a fragrance. I enjoy the smell of dried cannabis, but Smoke for the Soul has eliminated the smell of the smoke and just mushed together a bit of damp vegetation. It’s just sour and unpleasant on my skin, straight through to the drydown. There are signs of complexity, and it should be tried, but it’s not for me.
Notes: cannabis, eucalyptus, grapefruit, cardamom and mate tea, plus accords of tobacco, birch and cashmere woods
I received my sample set from Sak’s Fifth Avenue in San Francisco. Each 50-ml. spray will retail for $270. Reminiscent of a vintage cigar holder, the scent’s outer box is of wood and bronze-finished metal.
Tama Blough, Managing Editor
We have a draw for a sample set for a reader in the US. Let us know which one of these you think you would like, and where you live. Draw ends 9/18/2014.
We announce the winners only on site and on our Facebook page, so Like Cafleurebon and use our RSS option…or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume.