May 15, 2014
"Fantasy Blooms" | Model: Caroline Trentini, Photographer: Steven Meisel, Vogue Australia, July 2008
Au Pays de la Fleur d'Oranger has become one of my favorite new fragrance finds. The Perfumery was founded in 1998 by Virginie and Antoine Roux around the inspiration of the hardy bitter orange tree that stands in their garden, but the two new spring 2014 releases in Collection les Inédites, composed by Jean-Claude Gigadot, get their bloom from other florals. Rose Irisée and Violette Sacrée both showcase flowers beloved by Victorians, but have a thoroughly modern take on classic florals that are totally 21st century.
Modern Glass Extension on a 5 story London House: Photo Design Milk
Rose Irisée opens with top notes of bergamot, sweet orange, and wormwood studding heart notes of almond, rose, orris, and ylang-ylang. Its first impression is the vaguely rosy scent of vintage lipsticks and powders, but on my skin, the almond and orris rise up and take over, creating a cool and slick metallic surface that brings to mind iris far more than rose. The blue light of dusk viewed through the glass windows of modern architecture characterizes this phase.
Karlie Kloss, "Speechless," 2012
Base notes of musk, cedar, patchouli, vanilla and sandalwood humanize Rose Irisée without overly warming it. Imagine kissing the cool cheeks of a modern it girl who has been standing in air conditioning posed as a silent movie star for an editorial photo shoot and you'll understand this diva.
Coco Rocha by Sofia Sanchez & Mauro Mongiello
Violette Sacrée is a more playful fragrance than Rose Irisée. Top notes of bergamot, violet, and violet leaves remind me of C. Howard candies, but underneath this confection is a bouquet of rose, jasmine, orange blossom and lily of the valley at the heart that bypasses childish and goes straight to chic. The violet scent never fades, it just deepens over time.
Audrey Hepburn as Cigarette Girl, Laughter in Paradise, 1951
Base notes of cedar, vetiver, and musk add an unexpected smokiness that bring to mind the cigarette girls from vintage movies. Although we know better now, there was a time when a puff of smoke was glamorous, and this hint of the forbidden makes for a delightful juxtaposition with the girlishness of the violet.
Both new fragrances live up to the spirit of the name of their collection, which means "never been done before." There are thousands of floral fragrances on the market, but Rose Irisée and Violette Sacrée , both available as eau de parfums in 100 ml bottles , have a unique viewpoint bridging vintage and modern sensibilities.
Disclaimer: Review based on samples provided by Sens Unik, the US Distributor.
Writer's Note: If it was up to me I would name Rose Irisée "Irisée Rose. For those looking for a less spendy Iris-centric luxury perfume than the uber pricey niche brands out there, at $125 for 100ml Rose Irisée is as good if not better .
–Nancy Knows, Sr. Editor and Beauty Editor
Editor's Note: You can read Managing Editor Tama Blough's reviews of Au Pays de la Fleur D'Oranger Inédites Figue Fruitée, Jasmine Révé,Tubereuse Rosée, Bergamote Boisée, Lavande Ombrée here.
Thanks to the generosity of Indigo Perfumery, we have a draw for a 100 ml bottle of the reader's choice of Rose Irisée or Violette Sacrée for one lucky U.S. reader. To be eligible, please leave a comment indicating which Au Pays de la Fleur d'Oranger fragrance is your favorite as well as which fragrance you would like to win and why. Draw closes May 20, 2014
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