May 15, 2015
Atelier Des Ors Debuted at Esxence 2015
Atelier Des Ors is a new perfume brand that launched at Esxence March 2015. In Milan, I had the pleasure of speaking with French founder Jean-Philippe Clermont, as he showcased his range comprising of five perfumes Cuir Sacré, Lune Féline, Rose Omeyadde, Aube Rubis and L’Armes du Desert. The aim of Atelier Des Ors, is to deliver haute parfumerie with poetic elegance, mystery and passion, grounded in French classicism.
Jean Philippe Clermont with our EIC Michelyn Camen in Milan (photo megan)
Jean-Philippe said that he wanted the wearer to feel deep emotions and to dream when wearing these gold infused scents. The bottles for the collection are certainly something to behold. Gold clearly is an important element of symbology within the brand’s architecture. The back of the flacons are indented to convey the glimmer of the sun’s golden rays, while 24K flecks of gold float and shimmer within its liquid contents. Gold is also highlighted in the name of the brand and the liquid contents of the bottles are gold in colour.
Marie Salamagne Firmenich
The nose behind each fragrance in the range is Marie Salamagne, a Firmenich perfumer who, Jean-Philippe believed wholeheartedly was a perfect fit for the brand. Her passion and sensibility is clearly evident in these perfumes. Her talents cover a wide range of territory including Aqua Allegoria Mandarine Basilic (Guerlain) and Jo Malone’s Cologne Intense Tuberose Angelica, Osmanthus Blossom and Silk Blossom. She has also signed Giorgio Armani’s La Femme Nacre, in addition to being one of the perfumers for Black Opium (which just won Best Perfume of the Year for the Fragrance Foundation France and UK 2015 Awards). Overall the five perfumes in the range have a polished feel and it’s an eclectic collection. I’m sure there will be something within this range that will get under your skin.
Lune Féline is a sumptuously rich gourmet vanilla perfume with an ambered touch. It’s a decadent over the top sweet treat that I would bathe in if I could. It has an addictive allure, opening with a touch of spice courtesy of cardamom and cinnamon. Lune Féline is plumped up in the base with resins, musks and woods, which lend a darkly luscious dimension to the scent until its conclusion. Vanilla Tahitens is summoned here in all its fruity, floral and yes definitely sweet glory. It has a treacled golden syrup like smell and if you have a fetish for loved up gourmand vanillas then you must try this, it’s simply heavenly. It also lasts and lasts. My favourite in the range.
Sean Connery as 007 in Goldfinger 1964
Cuir Sacré was the perfume that won me over at Esxence and was my initial pick when I first tried the line with Jean-Philippe. Cuir Sacré is a smart, elegant leather with a sleek smoothness in its curves. Initially a delicate hint of juniper is followed by a light dusting of cardamom and saffron that plumps the leather accord. The absence of floral notes, makes this more of a masculine leather to my nose. Vetiver is also fully present in the base that provides a further nudge towards Monsieur. Cuir Sacré is a safe and solid choice with its thick, buttery leather that swims in smoothness with a luxurious feel. There is a warmth to Cuir Sacré that would add a layer of comfort in winter curled up on the couch by the fire at the end of a long day. Perhaps you may have Don Draper by your side. He would wear this fragrance with aplomb.
Jeune Arab- Kees van Dongen
Aube Rubis is a luxe “fruitchouli”. It seems dosed in patchouli and I can smell its headiness from start to finish. The opening centers on bergamot, grapefruit and blackcurrant. It is fruity but the patchouli ensures that the fruits are not the dominant players. Iris and violet enter gracefully in the heart and provide a bite of popcorn sweetness. This is the part of the scent that I adore with its lashings of candied allure. Patchouli, vetiver and praline in the base ensure that the perfume has tenacity. The Longevity is overnight and then some
Victoria Stoyanova, 1968
If you are a rose perfume fan, Rose Omeyyade this may be your perfect rose…such a succulent, full-bodied fruity ambered rose. It opens with pink pepper and a hint of luscious raspberry. It is a dark pink rose that I imagine has been sprinkled in brown sugar emerging in a wood fired glow. There’s a dusky facet to this rose that beguiles and it’s one of those perfumes you need to test on skin. Rose Omeyyade smells infinitely better on my skin than paper, as I get hints of a smoky base. This is a scent that has presence and is definitely unisex.
The Gate-of the Great Umayyad Mosque Gustave Bauernfeind
There is a certain Oriental charm to L’Armes du Desert , a viscous dark woody scent that conjures up warm nights in the dry, unforgiving heat. There is a weight to this scent. It has a sense of mystery and makes me feel as if I’m transported to a mystical religious ceremony that summons gravitas. L’Armes du Desert suggests the masculine. There’s no sweetness here, just the hum of woods and resins. This is not the type of scent that I generally favour but if you are fond of woody orientals without spice or floral notes, this will strike a note.
Megan Paki, Senior Contributor, CaFleureBon and Author Megan In Sainte Maxime
Art Direction Michelyn Camen, Editor in Chief
Disclosure : Samples from Atelier des Ors at Esxence
Atelier Des Ors Bottle (back)-Photo by Megan There are real gold flakes and sunburst bottle!!
Atelier Des Ors is sold at Jovoy Paris and Harrods, as well as select European and Mid East stockists. We have a sample set for a registered reader in the US or EU. Please leave a comment with which of the five Atelier Des Dors appeals to you and where you live. Draw closes May 18, 2016
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