November 7, 2016
Fantasy Blooms: Caroline Trentini for Steven Meisel Vogue Australia 2008
The last days of autumn have arrived, dripping wet, grey and cold. The Big Leaf Maples have shed their final round of leaves, covering the lawns and garden patches with golden, soggy carpets. Winter is still more than a month away. As I sit by the fire, wrapped in a cozy throw, sipping a cup of spiced tea, I am already dreaming of my spring garden while comfortably luxuriating in the newest scent from Atelier des Ors – Iris Fauve.
Contibutor Danu Seith Fryr at Pitti Fragranze with Creative Director Jean-Phillipe Clermont
Iris Fauve, introduced at Pitti in September 2016, is the sixth fragrance from the new perfume house Atelier de Ors. The founder of the house, Jean-Phillipe Clermont and the house perfumer Marie Salamagne of Firmenich, share a passion for French haute perfumery.
Atelier des Ors bottle: Photo by Contributor Megan Paki of Megan in Saint Maxime for Cafleurebon 2015
Their fragrances are created from the most precious essences and exclusive raw materials, presented in glimmering sunburst patterned glass bottles, mirroring the flecks of the 24 K gold floating in the perfume.
Bearded Iris (apped Mc) via wikipedia
Iris Fauve translates to "Tawny Iris". The first image that comes to this gardener's mind is of the North American wild flower, Iris fulva, also known as the Tawny or Copper Iris. That being said, the Iris Fauve perfume is so much more than my mental image of this simple, native water iris. To my nose, Iris Fauve is the scent of rich golds, effervescent blues and glowing purples – a fragrant image of that most luxuriously textured garden flower, the Bearded Iris.
Irises from Gail's garden (apped Michelyn)
Iris Fauve opens with a fresh, realistic, transparent scent – the iris fragrance I experience every spring when I bury my nose in the flowers, fresh cool, lightly powdered with a hint of rosemary and fern-leaf. This realism quickly warms to a velvety-spiced blend of cinnamon, bergamot, orris and Liatris. Liatris odoratissima is another North American native plant, also known as Deer's Tongue or Vanilla Leaf. Liatris absolute is notable for a slightly dusty vanilla effect, at once powdery and green, with nuances of bitter earth and fresh cut hay.
Golden Jeweled Eye digital art by Michelyn
To me Liatris is the perfect pendant to the bouquet of orris, bergamot and cinnamon. The vanilla quality of the Liatris is understated and subtle enough to add warmth and sweetness without turning the perfume gourmand. As the fragrances dries down the bergamot adds a bit of sparkling tang to the spiced iris, giving an uplifting, cozy yet elegant and sensual effect to the composition.
Sophie Vlaming for Marie Claire Russia January 2014
Iris Fauve is quite long lived on my skin. With the exception of the initial transformation from cool to warm, there are no radical changes over the eight or more hours I enjoy the fragrance, but rather a subtle progression of scent, still recognizable as iris, but maturing as a breath of myrrh, then an undercurrent of sandalwood and finally as labdanum, musk and a suggestion of the original realistic bloom – a dream of spring on this cold November evening.
Fragrance notes: Bergamot, cinnamon, orrisroot, Liatris, cypress, patchouli, vetiver, cedar, labdanum, myrrh, sandalwood and musk.
Disclaimer: Many thanks to Atelier de Ors for the samples of Iris Fauve. My opinions are my own.
Gail Gross – Sr. Contributor
Art Director: Michelyn Camen
Photo of Michelyn Camen EIC with Jean-Phillipe Clermont of Ateliers des Ors by Rob Barbiero at Osswald NYC (November 10, 2016)
Editor’s Note: I first met Jean-Phillipe at Esxence in 2015, where Pierre Guillaume of Parfumerie Generale hosted a dinner in Milan. Visiting the stall the next morning, I was immediately struck by his vision as a Creative Director. The beauty of both bottles and perfumes are distinctly French (you can read Guest Contributor Megan Paki's reviews of Lune Feline, Cuir Sacre, Aube Rubis, L'Armes de Desert and Rose Ameyyade here If you live in the New York /Tri State area, Jean-Phillipe will be making a personal appearance at Osswald NYC, 311 West Broadway for a “Gilded Evening with Atelier des Ors” from 5PM-8PM EST. Photo from the event above
Photo of Iris Fauve courtesy of Atelier des Ors
Thanks to the generosity Jean-Phillipe Clermont of Atelier des Ors, we have an avant premiere 100 ml bottle of Iris Fauve for one registered reader worldwide (be sure to register or your comment will not count). To be eligible, please leave a comment with what appeals to you about Iris Fauve based on Gail’s review, where you live and if you have a favorite Atelier des Ors fragrance. Draw closes November 11, 2016.