The Signature Blue Atelier Cologne Boutique and Creative Directors Christophe Cervesal and Sylvie Gantner

Atelier Cologne has been quite prolific this first half of 2015, (Pomelos Paradis in January and Collection Azur, March) and May sees the launch of the sixth Cologne Absolue in the Cologne Collection Métal, Oud Saphir. Collaboration between Creative Directors Sylvie Ganter, Christophe Cervasel and Perfumer Jerome Epinette, the fragrance is accompanied by Atelier Cologne's ever-charming and enticing vignette, a miniature character profile that gives one the slightest glimpse into the imagined story behind the fragrance. “Her decision was irreversible. She would not continue living a life by others’ rules. To see his deep sapphire blue eyes and feel the calm of his voice again were the only things that mattered now. With him she finally felt ready to write her own history.”

Oud Saphir Collage by Susie

Oud Saphir is cleverly composed in the traditional cologne style, using an exceptionally high concentration of essential oils, which is what grants the Cologne Absolue their impressive development and longevity. The top notes here are bergamot from Calabria, ambrette from India and pink pepper from China, with heart notes of violet leaves from Grasse, jasmine from Egypt and a suede leather accord. Base notes support with a dark oud accord, birch wood from China and vanilla from Madagascar.

 Blue Eyes cuded.com

I have a confession to make. I don't like Oud. With the huge influx of this particular note flooding both niche and mainstream fragrance lines since mid 2000s, I have patiently waded through scent after scent, waiting- and wanting- to find just one Oud-centric scent to fall in love with. The conclusion I have drawn is that, whilst I may not ever get over my dislike of this potent agarwood, I have found fragrances in which I can appreciate some of the qualities it possesses. Oud Saphir is one of them.

image by susie

This scent has an interesting contrast between vibrant, fresh citrus and a dry, leather/Oud accord. It has the classic bright opening of a cologne, followed swiftly by a deep swell of dark desert shadows. Initially the fragrance reminds me quite distinctly of burnished metal incense burners, before any incense has been lit. There is a cold metallic hum with a stain of resin and wood beneath. As Oud Saphir develops the delicate jasmine and vanilla bring more warmth and light to the scent, but the Oud and birch wood remains cold in the depths of the fragrance. I find the Oud to be very controlled, almost formal in Oud Saphir, at times it merely seems to amplify the smooth leather that caresses its way through the whole development, melding itself to skin like a supple sheath. There are moments when it is fruitier, more overtly 'oud-like' in character, but as the scent rolls on it subsides into the depths again.

Atelier Cologne Oud Saphir Tableau

On first application I shortsightedly labeled Oud Saphir as "masculine, too 'Oud-y', not for me."I have gone back to it time and again and found something else that I like each time. I now retract my initial impression that it is a strictly masculine fragrance. The ambrette and vanilla really warm the scent and give it a comforting, close to the skin quality that would suit whichever gender chose to wear it.

collage by susie of Matisse Blue Nude II inside a sapphire

I really enjoy the contrasting cologne splashiness with the smooth, dry leather accord. It's classy, understated and elegant.  It is as polished as sapphire, beautifully composed and a bit more formal than other Atelier Colognes. And what of the Oud, you may ask? Well, if you are accustomed to full bodied, animalic, steamy Oud fragrances then this might be a little too controlled for you. But if you are an Oud-a-phobe like me then Oud Saphir may well be your answer.

Disclaimer- sample gratefully received from Atelier Cologne, opinions my own.

Susie Baird– Editor and editor of Epiphany.

Oud Saphir via Atelier Cologne

Thanks to our great friends at Atelier Cologne we have a very special draw as the fragrance just launched of Cologne Absolue [pure perfume 18% ] 30 ml rechargeable ~ Refillable Travel Spray 1 fl. oz. of Oud Saphir ($105) To be eligible you must be a registered CaFleureBon reader,  and leave a comment with where you live, your favorite Atelier Cologne and if you are an oud-a-phobe. USA, CANADA and EU readers. Draw closes May 22, 2015

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