New Perfume Review: Amouage Sunshine Woman Eau De Parfum (The Midnight Flower Collection) + Creative Director Christopher Chong Finds Love and Happiness Draw

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Clayton Ilolahia and Christopher Chong of Amouage meet in Sydney, Australia

Last year when Amouage launched new perfumes, Fate Man and Fate Woman, the launch marked the closure of a chapter. The Omani perfume House’s creative director, Christopher Chong, didn’t talk about the closure in terms of finality; it was more about a sense of metamorphosis following eight years of brand development under his direction. Today, Amouage is one of niche perfumery’s great success stories. Last month I met Christopher Chong in Sydney, Australia. He talked with me about the new cycle Amouage began this year, with Journey Man and Journey Woman, and he shared his vision for the future. “When I first started, people didn’t know who I was. It took customers and the press some years to get to know me. Now I think we have reached a stage where they know more about me than I know about myself. So I decided that in the next cycle, it is much more direct. Like in Journey, I told people about my passion, what I like. For this new, second cycle, I want to have a more intimate dialogue with the world, rather than telling my story behind a narrative. So this becomes a much more personal narrative.”

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Midnight Flower

This personal narrative continues with the Midnight Flower Collection, a recent offshoot of Amouage’s main collection, which shows another side of Christopher’s personality. Midnight Flower was the pedigree name of Christopher’s beloved Cavalier King Charles Spaniel who passed away two years ago. In celebration of their special  relationship, the Midnight Flower Collection inspires feelings of happiness, hope and love. “This collection has special meaning for me, because I got her when I started at Amouage. We went through this whole journey together, and she was part of my smelling process. She was a very funny, quirky, crazy little dog. That is why it is all about a celebration of happiness.”

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Creative Director Christopher Chong is smiling!!!

Fans of the Amouage brand will notice a difference in terms of how these fragrances smell in comparison with Amouage’s Main Collection and the Opus Library Collection. With a smile, Christopher told me, “I’ve reached a point in my creative process where I want to do things without the pressure. Sometimes I want to do things for fun. Life is too short. I don’t want to be all moody, dark and scary. Memoir was scary you know! Sometimes I want to lighten it up.” His renewed approach is evident in his first eau de parfum for the Midnight Flower collection.

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"Candy Color", Marie Claire Italia, September 2014, Model: Elsa Hosk

Christopher Chong  has named his new perfume Sunshine, and it is the result of collaboration with Robertet perfumer, Sidonie Lancesseur, a perfumer we hear increasingly more over the past several years in association with luxury niche perfumes. Christopher describes Sunshine as a white floral, gourmand perfume. It contains raw materials not previously featured in an Amouage perfume. Essential oil from Artemesia pallens or davana, an aromatic herb grown in South India, is an important part of Sunshine’s fruity complex, which is further embellished with blackcurrant liqueur and the peachy apricot tones of osmanthus absolute. The rich floral construction is built around jasmine and magnolia. Another element of the fragrance, which works in parallel with the fruity and floral notes, is its gourmand theme. It begins with a finely textured almond note and continues with vanilla. These two raw materials transform the bright floral heart of the perfume into something more textural and grounding. Even if Christopher’s intention was to steer away from being overly dark and moody, Sunshine’s exuberant demeanour is stamped with some hallmark Amouage base notes. A touch of smoky cade wood gives Sunshine a subtle hint of leather. Papyrus, patchouli and blond tobacco add a sophisticated edge to this wonderfully playful perfume.

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Amouage Sunshine Bottle : Photo Clayton

The packaging is also new. For Sunshine, the classic Amouage women’s flacon has been adapted. Accented with white and gold, the body of the bottle is an opaque yellow glass that shimmers under light. The wooden box is covered in sky blue paper, which is embossed with a galuchat leather print, and a golden sun emblem adorns the front panel. Perfume packaging usually ends up becoming waste, so I love that these wooden boxes have a removable insert, allowing them to be repurposed as a box to store jewelry and other trinkets. Sunshine is available in Amouage boutiques and launch dates have been set for December 2014  in Australia and February 2015 in the US ($450), making it the perfect gift for the Holiday Season or Valentines Day.

Disclosure – Bottle provided by Agence de Parfum, distributor of Amouage in Australia and New Zealand

Clayton Ilolahia, Guest Contributor and author of perfume blog, What Men Should Smell Like

Editor's Note: We extend a warm welcome to Clayton whose intelligently written and eloquent fragrance blog is a must read. On a side note,  I absolutely love Sunshine. Luca  who?   If you are new to ÇaFleureBon, we invite you to  read an article Christopher penned in 2012, ÇaFleureBon Creative Directors in Perfumery: Christopher Chong of Amouage, an in depth and revealing discussion of  his creative process . It is one of our most popular posts -MC

Thanks to Amouage who sent me a press sample, I am offering 2ml of Sunshine to a reader in the USA. To be eligible, please leave a comment with what you enjoyed about Clayton's review and your favorite Amouage Perfume. Draw closes 11/19/2014

We announce the winners on our site and on our Facebook page, so Like Cafleurebon and use our RSS option…or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume

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20 comments

  • Great post Clayton! Seriously love seeing Christopher Smile. A white floral gourmand sounds like happiness and sunshine in a bottle. Certainly will bring a smile and fun to this girls life I’m sure. Loved reading the back story on this one. Life can get pretty serious and dark and a bit of sunshine is certain to spread some happiness.

  • Sunshine sounds beautiful and I love the bottle. I also adore that Christopher Chong paid homage to his sweet, little dog. A person’s humanity shines brightly when they honor their pet’s memory!
    Sunshine will come in handy as we head into the dark winter months in the Pacific Northwest.
    Thank you!
    (In the US)

  • fazal cheema says:

    I like the fact that Christopher Chong is bringing his personal voice on a bigger scale now. Amouage Sunshine was indeed a surprise when I first came to know about it and Chong is correct that Amouage has mostly travelled darker paths. I am curious how the journey on lighter paths may turn out to be. My favorite Amouage continues to be Amouage Gold (both men and women versions). I am in the US

  • Welcome Clayton! I enjoyed this article for several reasons, but when Christopher stated “Life is too short. I don’t want to be all moody, dark and scary. Sometimes I want to lighten it up.”, it made
    me want to be more open to lighter and brighter scents. This does
    seem like happiness in a bottle! I live in the US. Thanks for the draw!

  • Thanks for the review, Clayton. Amouage isn’t a house I think of as playful so it’s nice to see this new, brighter direction and the bottle is absolutely gorgeous. Thanks for the generous offer! I’m in the US.

  • I loved reading about the bottle- it’s definitely a treat for the eyes. My favorite Amouage is Gold Man or maybe Epic Woman. I’m in the US.

  • I have heard about sunshine but not about the loving story behind midnight flower inspiring a collection
    I am not sure what I think of bright fruity gourmands they just don’t seem like part of Amouage history
    On the other hand the perfume sounds wonderful
    Welcome Clayton
    Off to check your blog too
    USA
    My fave is amouage jubilation 25

  • I have read about this Sunshine on another page. If it’s Clayton’s favorite that’s good enough for me to want to sample it.
    I like many of the Amouage I sampled. I really like the Library Collection Opus VII. 🙂 USA

  • Great review & bit of interview with Christopher Chong. Yes, it’s wonderful to see him smile, read his new words about wanting to have fun, and the surprise of seeing him so casual (and with a tattoo no less)! Sunshine sounds great and I, too, love the fact that the packaging is useful. Would love to try, of course! My favorite Amouage is Lyric Woman. In the US.

  • Great post, Clayton! The list of notes in Sunshine sounds fabulous, so I would love to try it. Davana, blackcurrant and osmanthus are some of my favorite materials.

  • I enjoyed learning about the origins of the Midnight Flower collection. No one can resist a beautiful puppy! I could picture the feeling of the line from this interview, and look forward to tyring an Amouage gourmand. My favorite dramatic Amouage scent is Lyric Woman.
    In the US. Thanks for the draw!

  • What a lovely interview – I completely agree with the sentiment that life is short and we need to have fun. Sadly I’ve not yet tried any Amouage scents – but this would be a lovely first (even if it is not in the same vein as the others). Thanks for the draw, in the US!

  • This was a wonderful review. I enjoyed the feeling of light and happy throughout the story.
    I do not have a favorite Amouage.
    I would love to experience Sunshine.

  • I’m not sure I know what a white floral gourmand will smell like but I’d love to see! This bright bottle surely is a departure for the brand. It will be interesting to see where this new phase takes Christopher Chong. And I love that the line was inspired by his love for his dog. Perfect! US

  • Cynthia Richardson says:

    I enjoyed reading about this very summery-sounding fragrance. Right now scents seem to be very heavy and wintery. Clayton’s review made me want to add some summer to my November. I’m glad that Christopher Chong is feeling lighter at this stage of his career. I have not yet had the pleasure of experiencing an Amouage Perfume.

  • Sunshine sounds amazing! Opus IV is my favorite, and to me it’s also bright and orangey-yellowy-sunny. If anything I wanted a little more of that brightness and a little less Amouage-ade because on me the base amps to a million (though it gets ambery and cozy and lasts forever so really not complaining). So I’d really like to try Sunshine, especially in these dark months. One thing that stands out to me is how emotional Christopher Chong’s scents feel. He’s like a great film director–you can’t see him, but his guidance is always apparent.
    Thanks!
    USA

  • Janet in California says:

    I love the idea of the new Midnight Flower collection being in honor of his relationship with his precious dog. Happiness, hope, and love sound like a good basis for perfume, and life.

    My favorite Amouage is Memoir Woman. And Honour Extrait. And Lyric…

  • What a great review! I love seeing Mr. Chong’s humanity, and of course, his love for his dog. And the statement “Luca who?” Just made me howl! I love Amouage Lyric Man, dark, mysterious rosy goodness!

  • Thank you for the review, Clayton! I like this lightened up approach, but glad that Christopher kept some of the Amouage edge with the base notes. My favorite is the “scary” Memoir. I would love to try Sunshine, though! I’m in the U.S.

  • Thank you, everyone, for the warm welcome to CaFleureBon. I guess one lucky person will get the chance to smell Sunshine very soon but I hope the rest of you enjoy the experience when it launches as much as I did.