New Perfume Review: Amouage Library Collection Opus VIII + Olfactory Illusion Draw

opus VIII Amouage

The house of Amouage, helmed by Creative Director Christopher Chong, is releasing a new tome in its Library Collection, Opus VIII. The Library Collection was created with the concept of the memories and experiences we gain during our life journey, like the hidden treasures found in a library that inspire us to learn and discover.

Amouage opus VIII Triumph_St_Ignatius_ Pozzo CaFleureBon

“Triumph of St. Ignatius of Loyola” by Andrea Pazzo

Opus VIII is meant to evoke Trompe L’Oeil, or Trick of the Eye, an art form that is meant to create visual illusion. Although practiced as early as ancient Greek and Roman times, the technique became popular during the 1400’s and beyond, thanks to the better understanding of perspective achieved during the Renaissance. Trompe L’Oeil is often used to create the illusion of increased space in a room by adding windows, door, or even whole rooms and outdoor scenes that can be so skilfully rendered as to cause people to try to enter. Murals are another popular venue, and recently there has been an upswing in artists who work directly on the street with chalk to create remarkable 3-D effects in fantastic drawings.

Amouage Opus VIII blue-sky- warren edward johnson tunnelvision cafleurebon

“Tunnel Vision” by Blue Sky (Warren Edward Johnson)

My first whiff of Opus VII actually reminded me of my mother’s painting studio, for just a brief moment; I have always loved the linseed oils, varnishes, and pigment smells. But that disperses fast enough that it may have been a trick of my mind instead of my eye, because a great, heady jasmine emerges right on the heels of that illusion. After its reign of glory, the fragile beauty of the jasmine is gently laid into a box that once housed incense and spice, and is made of the sweetest of woods.

amouage opus VIII kurt-wenner-trompe-l-oeil-chalk-art cafleurebon

Chalk art by Kurt Wenner

I find this perfume to be quite evocative. I enjoyed the floral aromas, most notably that wonderful waft of jasmin sambac, vibrating above my skin and filling the room like a heat mirage on a highway. As I sat with it, the drydown became warm and sweetly woody. I can see how it was inspired by visual trickery, because it has elements of olfactory illusion, shifting from a floral-oriental to a sweet smoky incense fragrance. Perfumers Pierre Negrin and Richard Herpin have created a fascinating perfume. I can’t quite decide which season would be right for this: the shimmering jasmine would be lovely in spring, but the cozy drydown sings of fall. Perhaps it is seasonless, and will depend entirely on mood.

Notes: Jasmin Sambac, ylang ylang, orange flower, frankincense, saffron, ginger, vetiver, guaiac wood, balsam, benzoin, Jamaican bay.

I received my sample courtesy of Amouage. Amouage Library Collection Opus VIII will be available April/May at Luckyscent.com, Parfumerie Nasreen, and Bergdorf Goodman in the US, and select stockists worldwide for $365 for 100 ml bottle.

Tama Blough, Deputy Editor

We have a small sample to offer one USA reader. To be eligible, please leave a comment with your favorite Amouage Library Fragrance, or why you would like to try Opus VIII and that you live in the USA. Draw ends March 9, 2014.

To read Creative Directors in Perfumery written by Christopher Chong, please click here. Reviews: Behind the Bottle with Christopher Chong on Opus V , Opus VI, and Opus VII

We announce the winners only on site and on our Facebook page, so Like Cafleurebon and use our RSS option…or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume.

 

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35 comments

  • I have only tried Opus IV and VI, and I would be hard pressed to decide between the two. I think Opus IV is my favorite of these, though overall my favorite of the Amouage is Beloved Woman. Like you describe here for Opus VIII, I find that Beloved really unfurls and unfolds and is bigger and bigger over time, like one of those trick toys that starts off tiny, but you add to water and it grows to fill the bathtub. I would love to try this one, because your description (the unfolding, the pairing of opposites) sounds like it will make it another Amouage winner for me.

    I live in the US.

  • I have not tried any of the Opus line, but one has to start somewhere! I think the idea of Jasmin Sambac with ginger and whatever Jamaican Bay may smell like would be interesting. I’m in the USA. Thanks for the draw!

  • I have several Amouage but only one from the Library series, Opus VII. I really like the direction Christopher Chong is taking this house and this new Opus sounds like another winner I would want. And yes, I live in the US.

  • I’ve only experienced Opus IV and I love it’s contrast of citrus and smoky incense, while Interlude Woman seems to have a Trompe L’Oeil effect of it’s own, like I’m smelling a perfume behind a perfume. The jasmine in Opus VIII sounds great. I’m in the US.

  • I have never tried an Amouage fragrance. Jasmine and the other notes sound great (Jamaican Bay I don’t know about). I am in the US.

  • Fazal Cheema says:

    my favorite is Opus VII which i think is also the most popular recently..i am in the US

  • I really enjoy the VII. Just amazing. I’m loving the jasmine in the new VIII. In the USA.

  • My favorite Opus in VII. It’s fantastic on my husband. Me, I love jasmine and earthy scents. This new version sounds like a great fit for me.

  • From the collection I have tried only Opus V, so that would be my favorite 🙂 U.S.

  • I live in the US but have not yet tried any of the Amouage library fragrances. Amouage VIII sounds lovely, the notes include some of my favorites.

  • I have not tried any of the Amouage Library collection. I like the sound of this one, though, with all the spices. Of course, with the price, this would be difficult to fall in love with. In the U.S.

  • Amouage is a new house for me, anything to try would be a treat. I love jasmine so a good choice for me. I am in the US. Thanks for the fab draw.

  • I sm in the US. My favorite Opus is VI, although I and III are awfully nice. I’d love to try VIII as jasmine, incense, and woods are among the notes I love.

  • julesinrose says:

    I have not tried any in the library collection. I am curious about this fragrance as it really sounds like they threw everything into it; is that complex or just a lot of stuff? I’d like to find out! Cheers! In the US. . .

  • I think the jasmine, wood and incense in Opus VIII sound wonderful! This sounds like such a lovely perfume.

  • I would like to enter this drawing. I am located in the US. I’d love to try Opus VIII because I am very intrigued by saffron notes in perfumes, and I would like to experience the trompe l’oeil effect in a scent–that sounds totally new to me!

  • I am CRAZY about Opus V, but really like IV as well…would love to try VIII, though! Thanks for the draw — going to go put on some V right now…and I live in the US.

  • I have not tried the library range, only Jub XXV and Honour Woman, both of which I liked. I would love to try Opus VIII! Thanks for the draw, I’m in the US.

  • I adore the idea of an opening whiff of linseed and oil paint – and I always love woods and incense notes. I would love to try this. And I live in the USA. Thanks so much for the opportunity!

    Cheers,
    SL

  • Kim Morgan says:

    I love that there are notes of orange flower in this. I grew up with orange trees right outside my bedroom window. That with the balsam sounds amazing.

    US resident. Thank you for the draw!

  • I love your analogy to your mothers paints and the shimmering jasmine
    My favorite amouage is lyric woman and opus I
    I would love to try opus VIII

  • I’ve tried two of the library collection, and love IV so much. Shimmering sunrise-colored opening, then spices incense and resins brightly blended…mmmm…would love to try another library scent! VIII sounds lovely, I’d like to experience the shifting nature of this perfume. Thanks for the review and the draw

  • I have not sniffed any from the Library Collection. With all I have read, I would welcome trying any. Can’t see being disappointed. U.S.

  • My favorite Amouage library scent is III. I would love to try VIII because of the great notes, the two very talented noses and this review. I live in the US.

    Thanks for the draw

  • Anastasia says:

    So far between IV, V, and VI, my favorite has been IV. I’m in the US. Thanks and great job Tama!

  • Opus VI is easily my favorite. Who doesn’t want to try every Library fragrance!? JK. I live in the USA.

  • Heather P says:

    I’m really intrigued by the trompe l’oeil reference, as well as the described stages here. Lovely review. I live in the US and would love to give this a try…thanks!