New Perfume Review: Aedes de Venustas Copal Azur (With Exclusive Quotes from Bertrand Duchaufour) + Smoke on The Water Draw

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Aedes de Venustus, the first niche perfumery in NYC re image by TSF

Aedes De Venustas on New York’s Christopher Street is an important destination for any serious lover of niche scent. The bijou boutique opened its doors in 1995, inviting a curious world into its plush, papal interiors to sample hitherto elusive and artisanal fragrances from all over the world. The Creative Directors Karl Bradl and Robert Gerstner are in many ways the olfactory godfathers of niche, introducing clients to a hand-picked and esoteric mix of international and home-grown perfume talent.

In 2008, the duo collaborated with Bertrand Duchaufour and L’Artisan Parfumeur on an initial house scent and then a fabulous full-blown smoky signature, Venustas Eau de Parfum in 2012, again made with Bertrand. Two more singular scents followed, Iris Nazarena in 2013 (signed by Ralf Schwieger) and the growly sensual Oeillet Bengale by Rodrigo-Flores Roux in early 2014. This collection of inventive and stylish scents cemented Karl and Robert’s reputations as both arbiters and creators of vibrantly different perfume.

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Aedes de Venustus Copal Azur EDP re image by TSF

The latest launch from Karl and Robert is Copal Azur and what a strange thing it is, a milky, saline collision of smoke and glittering blue ocean. Karl was travelling in the Yucatan when he first encountered the full aromatic force of copal, as it seemed to be a constant theme in the surrounding air. It suggested a scent to him and a chance to revisit an olfactory friendship with Bertrand Duchaufour. The most impressive aspect of the scent for me is the adroit balance of sea and smoke; it’s like two weather fronts running side by side, nuzzling but not quite engaging.

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Bertrand Duchaufour, Perfumer Extraordinaire re image by TSF

Copal Azur uses two strong themes, smoke and oceanics. Ozonic and aquatic notes such as Helional, Melonal, Aphermate and Calone are extremely potent materials; I was really intrigued by Bertrand’s handing of such potentially volatile and overwhelming notes. Interested to know he achieved such delicate and astute equilibrium Was it simply a case of diluting the materials or careful dosage? It became one of two questions I got a chance to ask Bertrand Duchaufour, thanks to my Editor in Chief Michelyn Camen and François Duquesne, CEO of Beauty Enterprise. Bertrand replied: ‘It is actually both. The superior quality of the frankincense (sourced at Art & Parfum in Grasse) makes this marriage easy and I dosed it very carefully. Also the maturation and maceration times prior to production are extremely important steps. In this case, very long, over six weeks, which adds to the overall coherence and quality of the fragrance.

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Sediment off the Yucatan -Image By TSF

Copal Azur is very different from the ecclesiastical or dry temple environs of any of Bertrand Duchaufour’s previous incense incarnations; this is a celebration of land and sea, of fire and blue shimmering depth, of smoke on water. He has washed his signature fumes in the azure waters of the Caribbean, creating a unique scent that eschews the usual queasy boredom of humdrum aquatics by contrasting the smooth bright salinity with a kindled smoulder drifting across clear blue skies. Bertrand is very well know for his use of incense and soft transparent woods so I am intrigued by his use of an ozonic facet in Copal Azur. When he made Chypre Palatin for MDCI, it felt like a delicious neo-chypré, an attempt to modernise the trope without the age-old dryness of oakmoss and the usual classic formulations. In my second question to Bertrand I wanted to ask him if he might consider Copal Azur as a neo-fougère, a brave and pagan riff on Davidoff’s Cool Water. I know he tends to avoid classification of his work, but I thought I would ask anyway. He replied: ‘It is hard for me to classify what I do generally and especially in this case. I leave it to the perfume critics! The first fragrance I made for Aedes de Venustas in 2012 has been described by some as a chypré, woody or fruity. All that matters is that people have a reaction to my work and enjoy wearing it as much as I enjoyed creating it.’

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Copal resin with termites- Image by TSF

Copal is the resin of various South American trees used extensively for censing in religious ceremonies. The word derives from an Aztec Nahuatl word coaplli, meaning incense. As the ‘blood’ of trees, copal would be offered through up smoke (per fumum) to the gods. For the culturally obsessed Bertrand Duchaufour, copal must have seemed like the most divine inspiration for a scent. Copal can’t be used directly in scent, so Bertrand has used three extractions of frankincense to produce an intensely chic and resinous adaptation of this striking material. Myrrh and patchouli enhance the warmth of the frankincense notes, bolstering a sense of sinuous worship and religiosity. My favourite part of the composition is a moment of lull and milky calm as tonka and briny amber settle in, underpinning the flickering fumes of imagined copal; it feels buoyant, floating both in ocean and in air, buffeted by salt and waves and air and wing.

The majesty of Duchaufour creations is a discreet yearning for faith and its attendant mysteries. Copal Azur is one of his most enigmatic and curious creations to date, a seemingly contradictory and yet defiantly harmonious tableau of smoke on warm blue waters.

Disclosure – Sample of Copal Azur kindly supplied by Beauty Enterprises.

The Silver Fox, Sr Editor and Editor of The Silver Fox

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Aedes de Venustas Copal Azur sample image by MC

Editor's Note: Iris Nazarena was the recipient of the Fragrance Foundation 2014 Award for Perfume Extraordinaire. I also own a bottle of Une Histoire de Chypre by Aedes de Venustus that I bought from Karl and Robert in 2008. It was made in collaboration with Molinard. If you are reading this, please bring it back-MC

Thanks to Beauty Enterprises and Aedes De Venustus we have a carded sample of Copal Azur for any reader in the USA, Canada or EU. To be eligible please leave comment with why you enjoyed this review, if you have a favorite Aedes Venustus Perfume and where you live. Draw closes 11/20/2014

We announce the winners only on site and on our Facebook page, so Like Cafleurebon and use our RSS option…or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume.

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19 comments

  • Copal, to me, is as distant from the sea as you could think (this is hyperbole to illustrate that I don’t put the two together) so “a seemingly contradictory […] tableau of smoke on warm blue waters” rings right to me.

    That said, I can see how the volatility of the incense can play well together with that of the sea breeze. I have to admit that the use of cal one has me cringing a bit, but I am too interested in finding a good copal fragrance to not want to give this one a try.

    Plus, Mr Fox says it is harmoniously done, so I can at least give it the benefit of the doubt. 🙂

    I hope it is at least half as good as Oelliet Bengale – my favorite from Aedes de Venustas.

    I am in the US> Thanks for the draw.

  • I enjoyed the discussion about various perfume materials, and how one work’s with them. My favorite of the line is clearly Iris Nazarena. 🙂 usa

  • I went to Tulum during my honeymoon and am so curious to know if this scent will around any memories of the location. I also am intrigued by the milky accord – which I’m finding I really really really love these days. I want to get my hands on as many milky fragrances as possible! Thanks for the draw, in the US!

  • I am fascinated by the concept of salty and smokey.
    I would love to experience this scent
    I live in the U.S.

  • Love the idea of incense and ozone from Duchaufour, and this review gives it a wonderful sense of being part of a dream. I really love the original Aedes de Venustas Signature EDP. I am in the US, thank you.

  • Incense and salt ??? Hmmm… I’m a bit skeptical about this kind of combination, but this review is making me very curious. As always, in the TSF’ says, I appreciate the descriptive aspects mixed with an informative side.
    I LOVE Iris Nazarena, the best iris scent ever!!!!!
    I’m in the EU.
    Thanks of the draw!

  • fazal cheema says:

    I am glad this has taken a different route than some previous editions which focused on incensy notes. I also wonder how the milky element may play out in Copal Azur..Feu d’issey has made me a fan of milky notes afterall. My favorite release so far is Iris Nazarena. I am in the US

  • “A moment of lull and milky calm”. Sign me up please! I’m in the US and don’t have a favorite Aedes yet.

  • Being a fan of Copal resin this perfume intrigued me, so yes I had to get a sample of it. I love the idea of mixing fire and water! It brings a certain balance which until the marriage together can and does certainly expose WTH moments. Currently my favorite ADV is Oeillet De Bengale. I am in the US.

  • I am definitely a fan already of Iris Nazarena. I’d love to try this for the smoke and salt combination. I had never heard of copal before so it’s always nice to learn something new. U.S.

  • I think the combination of ocean and copal sounds fascinating…definitely very Mexico/Mayan. Intriguing…would love to try it. I am in the USA.

  • To sum up – Smoke on the water. Mr. Fox subverts me so easily with his pictorial reviews, that I am already craving a decant (not a sample) of Copal Azur. Especially when I read about the celebration of seemingly incompatible forces and scents! And the briny amber!
    I still haven’t tried any of Aedes de Venustas perfumes, but I suspect I would fall for Iris Nazarena.
    I am in Bulgaria (EU). Thank you for the chance!

  • Copal azur sounds intriguing!
    I love iris nazarena
    Smoke on the water, not sure but if anyone can pull it off it is Duchaufour for sure
    Thank you I live in the USA

  • Donna Spiegel says:

    I’ve long been a fan of Aedes de Venustas – both the store as well as their fragrances. I wore their first scent as “my signature” for a long time…..it was so very unusual and I loved it. I also used to use the soap – it was a great soap and the fragrance was also lovely. Their second was also nice, super smoky and perfect for winter. I didn’t get to try the next 2….somehow never got around to them. Sorry about that, because the first were such big hits with me. This one sounds interesting and Bertrand always seems to mash things up just so – and I mean that…. you are always like, hmmm, really???
    I’d love to try this – so if I’m lucky enough…. thank you – for the draw opportunity. I’m in the US.

  • Cynthia Richardson says:

    I enjoyed reading about copal as the “blood” of trees and its history. I have not yet had the pleasure of experiencing any other Aedes Venustus Perfume and I live in the US.

  • Meganinstmaxme says:

    Sounds like an interesting mix of salt and smoke. Intriguing. Love the pictures for this article. I’ve never tried any of their work yet but generally like what Duchafour does. Thanks for the draw. I’m in the EU.

  • I loove Iris Nazarena, it’s the best iris parfume for me. And what Aedes de Venustas created for l’Artisan Parfumeur it’s amazing, I have the candle and I have tried to get the perfume here in Europe but it has not benn possible ..yet.
    Now I,m very curious about this one, as a lover of incense and myrrh I ask how it can be possible to mix that whith salty and oceanic notes. Perhaps I win a sample to know it!
    Thanks for the draw . I,m in Europe.

  • The idea of salty ocean merging with smoke intrigues me. The sea is always special to me as I grew up and live near it, but I don’t like scents that feel too masculine as some oceanic scents do. I can’t decide if I’ll like it or not and would love a chance to win a sample in order to find out. I’m in the EU.

  • Lillian Holloway says:

    I am seriously intrigued now. I had a visual in my head as you described it. Now I need to experience this.