As I’ve experienced more and more perfume, and perfumers, I realize there are a group of olfactory artists who “get me”; most without ever meeting me. I am sure anyone reading this has the same reaction to their favorite perfumers. My favorites seem to compose things under other’s creative direction that could’ve come directly from my wish list. One of the perfumers who is on that list for me is Cecile Zarokian. All of the fragrances she has signed connect with me and my own personal aesthetic. I was thrilled to hear that Claude Marchal of Parfums MDCI had engaged her for his latest Nuit Andalouse.
Nuit Andalouse is meant to capture an Andalusian night as the white flowers release their bouquet into the air. Mme Zarokian captures the reality of that plus the warmth of a late summer evening as the stars begin to twinkle in the sky. This is a still frame of a moment and a place and stands out for that ability to capture that landscape in fragrant form.
Cecile Zarokian
Mme Zarokian starts our evening at sunset as a tart orange is kept on the tart side by adding violet and some green from methyl salicylate. Mme Zarokian uses salicylates throughout Nuit Andalouse and they add a warmth characteristic of this class of aromachemical. Right from the start the methyl salicylate adds the dying rays of the sun with the green. Then we dive into a heart of gardenia and orange blossom and I am guessing benzyl salicylate is used to turn them from wallflowers into stars. This combination is nothing new but Mme Zarokian gets the balance just right. The base is a panoply of sweet warmth in the presence of creamy sandalwood, vanilla, and musk. Again I’ll make a guess that amyl salicylate is used to add the warmth for the base notes. I also urge anyone interested to try this on skin as it really shows off the complexity better there than on a strip where it stays a little more closed up.
Nuit Andalouse has all-day longevity and moderate sillage.
Nuit Andalouse is not groundbreaking in the use of its components but it is an expertly crated piece of perfumery. Mme Zarokian uses each note for a specific effect and particularly adds the salicylates throughout so that there is a subtle depth that lingers. Muy Bueno Cecile!
Disclosure: This review was based on a sample provided by Cecile Zarokian.
Thanks to Madame Zarokian and Claude Marchal of Parfums MDCI we have a sample to giveaway of Nuit Andalouse. This is a US and EU only draw. To be eligible leave a comment on which perfumer “gets you” and whether you live in the US or which country in the EU. The draw will end December 22, 2013.
We announce the winners only on site and on our Facebook page, so Like Cafleurebon and use our RSS option…or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume.
-Mark Behnke, Managing Editor
I think Bertrand Duchafour gets me the best. I really do adore most of his fragrances, but must say that Pierre Guillaume also gets me. I live in the US and would love to be able to try this fragrance.
I’m really excited about this release. MDCI is one of my favorite houses! I can’t pick just one, like Claudia 🙂
I’d have to go with Ernest Beaux and Dominique Ropion. I live in the US. Thanks for the draw.
I think, from my limited experience, the perfumer Christopher Sheldrake gets me the best. It is a close call though! I live in the US, thanks!
Calice Becker. Does she get me or do I get her? Either way I love most of what I have tried of hers.
I live in the US and would be excited to try the new MDCI.
Thanks!
The perfumer that gets me is Jacques Polge. I love a lot of his creations and reformulations ie Égoïste , Sycomore . They both smell amazing on me. I’m in the US. Thanks for the draw.
Roxanna – Illuminated Perfumes! I’m in the US. Thanks for the draw lovely review
I have a few perfumers who “get” me. Jean Paul Guerlain, Bertrand Duchafour, Andy Tauer. I love pretty much everything they do/have done. I live in the US. Thank you!
Ernest Beaux has created many of my favourite fragances, and also Jean Paul Guerlain. For me they’re genious. I’ m in Europe. Thanks.
I am very excited about the 2 latest MDCI offerings. Tough question but I would say Olivia Giaccobetti. I live in the US and thank you for the draw.
I am a Bertrand Duchaufour guy! I’m in the EU.
Bertrand Duchafour gets me the best.
I live in Europe. Thanks!
Bertrand Duchaufour,Vero Kern,Andy Tauer,Olivia Giacobetti,Francis Kurkdjian.Sorry I can’t mention just one.They have all created perfumes that I absolutely adore.I live in Europe.Thank you for the draw!
The perfumer who is most in line with my own preferences is Maria Candida Gentile. I live in the EU. Love to try Nuit Andalouse, it sounds wonderful. Thanks for the draw.
So far it’s Lutens / Sheldrake and Andy Tauer. I’m in Europe. Thanks for the draw.
I will go with Calice Becker or maybe Roja Dove. Both make the most amazing scents in my book! (US)
Jean Paul Guerlain is the one who gets me. I live in Greece in the EU.
Thanks for the draw.
I would have to say Jean Paul Guerlain gets me the most.
I live in the US. Thanks for the draw!
I love everything Jean-Claude Ellena has created until now. My favourite from his is L’Eau d’Hiver. I love the transparent beauty he puts in every single fragrance.
I live in Eu, in Romania.
Thanks for the giveaway!
Thanks for the draw! I’m in EU.
Pierre Guillaume gets me on every fragrance he created!
Seems like I seem to gravitate to scents that Calice Becker composed without knowing til after the fact. Now I seek them out! I’m in the US.
Hi! I’m in the US. I would say Germaine Cellier gets me. Fracas and vintage Vent Vert are between my all time favorite fragrances. I would also mention Bertrand Duchaufour and Joel Arthur Rosenthal, from JAR.
Thanks!
Duchafour, and, lately, Kurkdjian is catching my attention.
Thank you for the draw!
I’m in the US, and have to admit that as of yet I haven’t found a perfumer that my aesthetic taste really coincides with. But I’m enjoying the hunt!
LOVE MDCI. Would love to try this. Thanks for the draw! The perfume that “gets” me is Attrape Coeur. The MDCI that gets me is Enlevement au Serail…
Oh…sorry…I totally screwed that up and now can’t delete! The perfumer would be Mathilde Laurent!!! And I live in the U.S. 🙂
Calice Becker
USA
For me it is Dawn Spencer Hurwitz. I just got a new bag of samples and a couple of bottles (present to self!) yesterday. Her list of perfumes is prolific, and I absolutely love a huge majority of them. And to me, she is the best at the vintage “French” perfume ideal. I rave about DSH often here, but I’m just a fan, no affiliation!
I can’t pick just one perfumer. I would say Bertrand Duchaufour, Christopher Sheldrake, Olivia Giacobetti, and it is just for start. I am in the US.
I am a huge fan of some including Pierre Bourdon, Guy Robert, Andy Tauer, Jean-Louis Sieuzac, Jean Kerleo, and Edmund Roudnitska (His Eau Sauvage alone qualifies him) but i have noticed i have probably the highest success rate with Francoise Caron…her creations almost always appeal to me and have some interesting facet. If I have a perfume brand, Francoise Caron is one I would frequently employ! She deserves greater recognition among perfumistas even though I have no doubt she enjoys the due recognition among perfumers and other industry insiders
gosh, so lost in compiling the comment i forgot to mention i am in the U.S.
There are many of them: Andy Tauer, Duchaufour (especially in collaboration with Neela Vermeire), Edmond Roudnitska, Cecile Zarokian, Ellen Covey, Josh Meyer… I am in EU (Croatia).
Lutens and Chris Sheldrake are amazing, Sublime perfumes. My vintage pick is Guerlain and Caron, unmatched anywhere. In the new kids on the block, the little known working out of the kitchen/barn/garage Laurie Erickson from Sonoma Scent Studio for her superb creations. I’m in the USA.
The perfumer that gets me is Jean-Claude Ellena. I live in the US. Thank you!
Andy Tauer is the perfumer that “gets me!” Thanks so much for the draw. This sounds perfect. I’m in the US.
I would say Calice Becker and Ineke are two who really attract me with their creations. I’m in the U.S. Thanks!
I can’t say I’ve found a perfumer who gets me yet, but I respect several houses, Le Labo for one. Perhaps Kurkdjian has come closest to getting me.
I’m in Cyprus,
ty
I think that Pierre Guillaume gets me. Before I tried any PG’s scent I did not like gourmands at all. They made me sick to my stomach.
I am in the US
Thanks!
Andy Tauer and Jean-Claude Ellena.
Thanks for the draw!
US
Alberto Morillas gets me!
Thanks for the draw. I am in the USA
Thank you for the review and draw
Hmmm…Great question. I think Geza Shoen gets me. OJ Woman is so amazing, and I think he was the one to work on it with Ms Plinkington. Also, Clive Christian X for men and gs02.
I love how he handles wood and cardamon and everything.
Mark Buxton and Pierre Guillaume also seem to always work on me, more or less, both chemistry and concept.
US
Well,I am somewhat new to all of this and am still learning… So far I feel that Pierre Guillaume “gets me ” and I also feel that way about Christophe Laudamiel and Bertrand Duchaufour.I live in the U.S. Thank You and Best Wishes 🙂
I’ve loved everything of Andy Tauer’s. But I can’t say that I have one favorite. I love experiencing different fragrances and coming back to them again and again.
I am in the U.S. Thanks!
Jacques Polge 🙂
usa
It’s difficult .I have long love romance with maestro Serge Lutens /Christopher Sheldrake .And I am in love with Edmond Roudnitska ,Michel Roudnitska ,Dominique Ropion. And I love Roja Dove .I sounds like I am a little bit promiscuous 🙂 I am in EU.
Some big perfumes from Maurice Roucel really get me – Musk Ravageur, Insolence EdP etc. I like it big.
I live in Poland.