New Niche Perfume Review Atelier Cologne Mistral Patchouli + Petit Flacon Draw

Jerome Epinette new Pic Aug 2012(1)-001

Jerome Epinette

Every year has their share of winners and losers, certainly 2012 has seen both. As I write my last review of 2012 I am very happy to be spending it with one of my biggest winners of 2012. Starting with Ambre Nue in the spring this niche perfume house has been having a superb year. As it comes to a close it finishes with a flourish as they open a new Atelier Cologne boutique in Paris and release Mistral Patchouli to coincide with that event.

mistral patchouli atelier cologne cafleurebon

Mistral Patchouli is the third fragrance, in 2012, created for Atelier Cologne by Jerome Epinette of Robertet. With Mistral Patchouli M. Epinette returns to exploring a fractionated titular note. As he achieved with the vetiver fraction in Vetiver Fatal it is a patchouli fraction, in Mistral Patchouli, which loses a lot of its heavy baggage. This transforms patchouli into something as light as a breeze. It also made me appreciate patchouli in a very different way. The fraction in use in Mistral Patchouli acts like an herbal sprite, agile and flexible. It is the centerpiece of Mistral Patchouli and it holds its own beautifully.

220px-Mistral_wind1

The mistral is a dry regional wind of France that starts in the north, flows through the Rhone valley and eventually swirls along the Mediterranean coast. It is a breeze full of the aromas it picks up on its travel to the coast. One of M. Epinette's challenges was to add that hint of the Mediterranean to the patchouli fraction so that both aspects of the name were represented. The word mistral is derived from a dialect of French which means "masterly". Mistral Patchouli is an example of M. Epinette's masterly use of materials to create a dry breeze of patchouli that is breathtaking.

Star-Anise

Star Anise

The first example of the creativity of M. Epinette is how he creates his salty ocean accord at the opening of Mistral Patchouli. Many perfumers would reach for the Calone and be done. When I tried Mistral Patchouli for the first time I realized there was no Calone but there was a great salty marine accord blowing across my senses. I was so surprised I had to contact M. Epinette to find out how this was achieved and got, what was to me, a surprising response. He told me that, "Instead of using the usual commercial and synthetic notes like Calone; I thought to use Star Anise from China to give the fresh salty and watery effect to the fragrance." This use of the star anise was as illuminating to my nose as the patchouli fraction. Combined with the star anise is a citrus note identified as pomelo and a pinch of black pepper. These create a fresh quality and a bit of the dry nature of the mistral. The heart is made up of iris and geranium, primarily, with a swirl of incense but not a lot. In the base we get to the patchouli fraction. M. Epinette explains its place, "I used the patchouli fraction to get rid of the smoky, earthy effect of patchouli. I wanted a pure leafy, airy patchouli. So I used the fraction which smelled to me fresh and leafy." This is a great description of the patchouli fraction as it is airy and green. I would also say it retains a bit of the herbal nature of patchouli without ever becoming overwhelming. There is some benzoin and vetiver here but it is the patchouli front and center.

mistral  patchouli absolue range candle soap cologne

Mistral Patchouli has excellent longevity and above average sillage.

Mistral Patchouli was such a great place for me to finish 2012. Enjoying a new fragrance by one of my favorite niche houses and perfumers of 2012.

Disclosure: This review was based on 30mL bottle provided by Atelier Cologne.

Thanks to Atelier Cologne we have a 30mL petit flacon of Mistral Patchouli to giveaway. To be eligible leave a comment on your favorite Atelier Cologne release of 2012 or your favorite fragrance by M. Epinette. The draw will close on December 27, 2012. 

We announce the winners only on site and on our Facebook page, so Like Cafleurebon and use our RSS option…or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume.

-Mark Behnke, Managing Editor

Editor's Note: Mistral Patchouli will be available at Bergdorf-Goodman on December 28, 2012. It is also available at both the New York and Paris Atelier Cologne boutiques. It will be available at the normal outlets early in 2013.

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76 comments

  • M. Epinette’s Santal Sacré intrigued me when I read a review of it although I have never had the pleasure to actually try it! What talent!
    Thanks for the review, how wonderful you can even write at this time of the year and that the parties have not fogged your capacity…:) Where’s the champagne?

  • I fell for several Rose Anonyme a wonderful candied Rose on me and the beautiful Sous le Toit which I think should be one of the best releases for the year!!!!!

  • I have not had the pleasure to try any of the 2012 releases, but I would love to try Mistral Patchouli. “Pure leafy, airy patchouli”, really intrigues me.

  • My favorite fragrance released by Atelier Cologne in 2012 is Vetiver Fatal.
    Thanks for the draw!

  • My favorite is “rose anonyme”, but I hadn’t have the chance of trying ” sous le toit de Paris”, yet
    would love to be able to sniff ” Mistral Patchouli”
    thanks for the review and the draw

  • I was amazed by this year’s fantastic Vétiver Fatal, with its lovely orange note. If Mistral Patchouli is even remotely as good, it will surely be awesome!

  • My favorite Atelier Cologne AD 2012 is Vetiver Fatal (although I adore Rose Anonyme as well!). I love vetiver as an ingredient and Mr Epinette’s way of implementing the fraction of it in the formula is masterful and innovatory at the same time. Eventhough he kind of announced this type of fragrance in Byredo’s Bal d’Afrique.

    Happy Holidays!

  • My favorite Atelier Cologne 2012 release is Vetiver Fatal. My favorite Jerome Epinette fragrance is Oolang Infini. I would love to try the new Mistral Patchouli.

  • I tried Atelier Cologne’s exclusive creation for Galeries Lafayette: Sous les toits de Paris and I must say it is a pretty amazing scent..superb violet centered cologne..
    Thank you for the draw…

  • Vetiver Fatal would be my favorite, from what I can tell but I haven’t tried it yet. I would love to try any of his creations. Mistral Patchouli sounds fantastic.

  • This is exciting! I´m absolutely crazy about Rose Anonyme, and I´m eager to test Mistral Patchouli, too. Thanks for the draw and happy holidays!

  • Byredo Black Saffron is my favorite scent from Epintette that I’ve had the chance to try. I have yet to experience anything from Atelier Colognes… Happy holidays Cafleurebon!

  • Cannabis rose from fresh was the first Epinette fragrance I tried I think
    From Atelier Cologne it’s hard to choose one but lately I have been wearing bois Blonds
    Thanks for a year of great reviews

  • Vetiver Fatal! And I have to say, M. Epinette is looking HAWT! For a brief moment I thought that was William Levy up there!

    Thanks for the great opportunity!!! and the easy multiplication, too!

    xoxoxoA

  • Ambre Nue has been my favorite from the ones I have tried this year. The fractional patchouli sounds awesome!

  • I’ve been eager to try Vetiver Fatal, but haven’t had an opportunity yet. Now I’ve just added another Epinette to my ‘must try’ list! I love the idea of using Star Anise in the fragrance. Thanks for the great draw!

  • a leafy, airy patchouli sounds wonderfully new.I must figure out what a patchouli fraction is. So many new terms to learn and appreciate. I entered the last atelier cologne giveaway as well. They all sound good but I have never sniffed. based on notes I think Rose anonyme would be my favourite.

  • I really love so much of the Atelier line – I’ve been looking forward to a review of Mistral Patchouli. I fell fast and furious for Rose Anonyme.
    Epinette’s Black Saffron is on my list to try and I also agree with Musette!

  • I love M. Epinette’s Trefle Pur, and this perfume sounds amazing. Thanks as ever for the amazing draw!

  • The only Atelier I have tried thus far is Vanille Insensee, and I am enjoying my sample so far. Thanks for the draw and Happy Holidays!

  • This one sounds very good, but I must admit to never having tried anything from this line OR this perfumer!

  • I was lucky enough to win a sample of Vétiver Fatal this year, and adored it — FB may be on my horizon. I’ve been good this year! Thanks for the draw. 🙂

  • Ambre Nue was the first of the Ateliers to work on my skin, and I like it a lot. I haven’t worn the rose or vetiver yet. Of course M. Epinette’s Seven Veils for Byredo was a hit for me this year.

    I am torn by this review. I am a huge patchouli fan – the rawer, rougher, and earthier, the better. So when I hear that all those magnificent guts have been ripped out to reveal a leaf? Argh!! But the anise-as-salt intrigues me, and I will try this for sure.

  • This fragrance sounds lovely, as I really like star anise. Don’t remember smelling any of Atelier’s or Epinette’s fragrances, but would love to remedy that.

  • My favorite scent by Atelier is Trefle Pur, which also happens to be by M. Epinette. Mmm….green and happy goodness!
    Thanks for the draw!

  • An airy and herbal patchouli sounds lovely, excellent review. Byredo Gypsy Water is my favorite, thanks everyone for the draw.

  • Wow! your review really makes me want to try this one! My favorite Atelier scent so far ( I don’t know them all) is Oolong infini.

  • just breathe says:

    I love Orange Sanguine but haven’t tried any of the 2012 offerings. Although this one and sous les toits sound really great!
    thanks for the draw!
    happy holidays!

  • Favourite Atelier release of 2012: Rose Anonyme. I also love the earlier Vanilla Insensee and Jerome Epinette’s Cannabis Rose.

    Thanks for the draw opportunity.

  • Mistral Patchouli sounds like it could become a favorite! My current love of Jerome Epinette’s perfumes = Trefle Pur =)

  • I would probably say Trefle Pur is my favorite creation of his. I liked Oolang Infini, but found it to remind me of Bvlgari too much.

    Thanks for the opportunity!

  • My favorite from this house so far has been Vetiver Fatal. Looking forward to trying more! 😉

    Happy Holidays, Mark and Michelyn and Jerome and everyone else!

  • I wasn’t fond of vetiver until I tried Vetiver Fatal. I love that fragrance!

    Trefle Pur is another favorite.

    Happy holidays to all!

  • My favorite is Atelier Rose Anonyme. There is a mystery in this perfume that oozes confidence and sexiness.

  • I guess my favorite A.C. fragrance will be the one I hope to win in this drawing. I have to admit I never smelled one before.

  • I have not tried any in the line yet, but I think that Mistral Patchouli would be one of my favorites because I love soft patchouli.

    Merry Christmas!

  • Vetiver Fatal, obviously! This and Oolong infini made me give atention to this line.
    Thank you for the draw!

  • Glad to see Atelier doing so well, big fan of their Oolang Infini as tea-based scents are my faves. Looking forward to their take on Patchouli and I get a feeling an Oud will be on the horizon as well.

  • Trefle Pur Is by far my favorite! I am a patchouli lover and I can’t wait for the release of Mistral Patchouli! Thanks for your generosity and Happy Holidays! 🙂

  • The description alone got me drooling! I just recently found my love for patchouli renewed and in my patchouli-mania I can’t wait to try its airy and easy to wear expression. This could easily be my favorite Atelier Cologne so far, not just for 2012.

  • I’ve read all about Atelier’s releases in 2012 and all are on my ‘to try’ list, but somehow I’ve not yet sniffed! Mistral Patchouli sounds wonderful and is going straight onto my list as well. Thanks for the draw!

  • I have to say Vetiver Fatale. Vetiver can sometimes be a tough note for me … but it is perfect in Vetiver Fatale!

    Thank you for the draw.

  • I really liked Rose Anonyme. Mistral Patchouli sounds right up my alley, I can’t wait to try it!

  • i don’t think i’ve tried even one of the atelier scents —
    but would guess that this patchouli would be my fave.
    patchouli is practically always a winner for me.
    ha!

  • I don’t know the release daates, I’m afraid it’s not 2012, but my favourite A.C. scents are Vanille Insensée and Orange Sanguine.
    Thanks for the draw!