A couple of years ago I happened on a booth at an outdoor street fair. The table was covered in the sweetest little bottles and pots of perfume oils and solids, as well as soaps and skin care items. The charming brand name was Smells & Bells. As is my wont, I started sniffing and was immediately impressed by the products. I purchased two solid perfumes, one a scent of roses and cinnamon; the other a slightly dirty jasmine. One series of liquid perfumes were accompanied by a short poem by the 14th century mystic Hafiz, which also gives the perfume its name; another series was called Mantra. As I spoke to the proprietress, Jennifer Caine, I found out that she had been influenced partly by Mandy Aftel’s book, Essence and Alchemy, and partly by the desire to have organic skin care alternatives for her infant.
Photo by Yosh Han
Sometimes people we meet become small magnets. Unlike most fair vendors I meet, chat with, maybe buy something from, and forget about, I viscerally knew that Ms. Caine was someone I needed to keep track of, and possibly nurture along a little bit. I could sense that she was talented, but was also taken with her gentle, sunny spirit. When the time came for the first Artisan Salon, I encouraged her to get a booth, and like a nervous stage mother, steered everyone to visit it. I was pleased that so many of my friends were as impressed with her as I had been. Although I would enjoy describing all of her work, I have selected a few perfumes from the Sufi Poet series to give you an idea of her concept.
Anubis by Michael
I caught the happy virus last night
When I was out singing beneath the stars
It is remarkably contagious—
So kiss me.
-Hafiz
A friend gifted me with a bottle of Happy Virus, knowing I appreciate Ms. Caine’s perfumes. It was a good pick for me; bright with citrus, richly floral, with a nice bite of spicy clove. Cocoa is used really well in this scent, just adding a warm roundness without smelling like culinary chocolate. When I bury my face in my perfumed skin, the corners of my mouth lift. A happy virus, indeed.
Top notes: lime, bergamot
Heart notes: jasmine sambac, ylangylang, clove
Base notes: cocoa, vanilla, sandalwood, oakmoss
Night Flight by Michael Parkes
This
Sky
Where we live
Is no place to lose your wings.
So love, love
Love.
-Hafiz
Delightfully rich, herbal, and earthy, This Sky is a very grounding scent. When I inhale deeply, I sense the dark wool coat of a plump gentleman who chews a bit of anise pastille after his pipe. Scents that can inspire such a clear visual and sensual impression are almost magical to me. I can’t help but press my nose to my skin and just keep sniffing. The drydown of this perfume is spectacular.
Top notes: juniper berry, basil, fennel, parsley seed, spearmint-
Heart notes: clary sage, infusion of cumin seeds
Base notes: patchouli, labdanum, vetiver
Angel Interrupted by Michael Parkes
Every time a man upon the earth
Does not keep his
Word,
Some Angels Grumble
And have to remove a few of
The bets
They had placed upon
His heart
To win.
-Hafiz
Deeply comforting, Some Angels Grumble is a perfect scent for relaxation and contemplation. The lavender is sweet, not spiky, and perfectly balanced with the other spice and herbal notes. I’m not very good about slowing down and just meditating, but this scent makes me want to just sit with my eyes closed, feeling my blood course, hearing my heart beat, and breathing purposefully.
Top notes: lavender, black pepper, cardamom
Heart notes: clary sage, nutmeg, spikenard
Base notes: peru balsam, vetiver, vanilla
Eternity by Michael Parkes
The term smells and bells is shorthand for liturgical ritual. Ms. Cainer’s work is rooted in spirituality, and the fragrances have a grounding, uplifting nature. They sing with their purely natural beauty, and don’t fall prey to the murky “mushroom” quality that can befall less artful natural fragrances. Each scent is unique, and Ms. Caine is adept at finding notes that add a spark of individuality to each perfume. I am pleased to be able to introduce our readers to her work.
My samples were given to me for review by Jennifer Caine of Smells & Bells. Her reasonably-priced product line is available in her Etsy shop, including sample sets. We have a sample assortment for one lucky US reader. Let us know which of these appeals to you, or your favorite Sufi poem. Be sure to let us know you live or have an address in the US. Draw ends on July 5, 2013.
We announce the winners only on site and on our Facebook page, so Like Cafleurebon and use our RSS option…or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume.
–Tama Blough, Senior Editor
Note: Rather than go the expected route and select Sufi art for this article, I selected works by popular contemporary artist Michael Parkes for their magical, metaphysical aesthetic.