There is speculation that the famous Medieval torture device that came to be known as “The Iron Maiden” may not have been Medieval at all, nor used at the time for torture. We have all flinched at depictions of its use in horror movies; the decorative, human sized cabinet filled with sharp spikes, the screams of the victim the last thing you hear as the door swings shut. To name a perfume La Vierge de Fer is bold; the connotations are going to be pretty dark. Serge Lutens is famous for applying unusual naming protocols to his perfumes, accompanying them with inspirational text that can be enigmatic. La Vierge de Fer is no exception, as evidenced by the last paragraph of the description: “… For that, not fearing incest, we will embrace it. In this way, she will give birth to our most beautiful monsters. That is how, a little rusty by dint of doubts, my steps have rejoined La vierge de fer (the Iron Maiden); that lily amongst the thorns.” I was grateful for the “lily amongst the thorns” portion of that paragraph, because it explains the whole perfume.

Lily Among Thorns by Gail Vass

When I first received my bottle of the perfume, I dabbed some on to get a preliminary impression, which I often do when I have a new perfume in front of me. My immediate reaction was that it was a lily version of Fracas: a dense and rich floral with a vintage feel. Not foreboding in the least, and not reminiscent of menacing torture devices. I wasn’t even sure if it lived up to the full-bodied reputation of the Serge Lutens line. Not content to experience the perfume only by dabbing, I decanted some into a spray bottle, and that was the trick.

A Lily Among the Thorns by Rigel Black

Although still not menacing, I understood the “lily amongst thorns” concept much better. The fragrance blooms on skin, big, bold, a little fruity, with a hint of rose and spice and lots of heady lily. I imagine this to be akin to heavy floral perfumes of old, and the word “thick” springs to mind, bringing to life the heavy, waxy blooms of lilies. Were it not for the bright, fruity aura, this scent could head into funereal territory pretty quickly. As it is, it’s quite enchanting, and I feel a bit glamorous even in my current loungewear.

A Rose Between the Thorns by Val Kenyon

Despite its powerhouse first hour or so, La Vierge de Fer is a bit disappointing as far as longevity goes, on my skin. I can usually hang on to Serge Lutens perfumes for quite a while, but this one goes strong for a couple of hours, then dribbles down to a vague, typical lily, then is gone. One could wear it to make a grand entrance at a party, then eventually blend in with the crowd. Of course, this is my personal experience, and yours may be different. That said, I do like it. It isn’t my favorite Lutens, but it is well-done and consistent with the more recent offerings in the line.

I received my bottle from the generous people at Serge Lutens. La Vierge de Fer is a Serge Lutens Paris exclusive.

Tama Blough, Senior Editor

We have a draw for our US readers for a 5 ml decant. Please let us know what draws you to this perfume, and remember to let us know you are in the US. Draw ends October 29, 2013.

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