New Niche Fragrance Review: Phoenecia Perfumes Skin Graft -Out Of The Black and Into the Blue

desat, supernatural

Photo by SaphireIo

Neil Young’s 1979 album “Rust Never Sleeps” is bookended by two versions of the same song; ‘Hey, Hey, My, My (Into the Black)’ and ‘My, My, Hey, Hey (Out of the Blue)’. Each song has this verse in it:

Out of the blue
and into the black
They give you this,
but you pay for that
And once you're gone,
you can't come back
When you're out of the blue
and into the black.

david and yosh

David Falsberg and Yosh Han

This came to mind as I tested the new perfume from the Seattle, WA independent perfume house of Phoenecia Perfumes. The reason it came to mind was the story of the perfumer, David Falsberg, behind Phoenecia Perfumes. Mr. Falsberg lost his sight in 2007, for about a year, caused by a condition called Stevens Johnson Syndrome. While sightless his sense of smell became more acute and that has led to him creating the Phoenecia Perfumes line. I became aware of Mr. Falsberg because I’ve been following the gatherings of the Northwest Indie Perfumers Circuit on Facebook and Phoenecia Perfumes were featured in February.  That brought me to the Phoenecia Perfumes webpage and Mr. Falsberg’s blog “5mL of Alchemy”; after that I ordered a bottle of his fragrance called Skin Graft.

out of the black, into the blue

Photo by SaphireIo

Skin Graft according to the website is described as, “A project from the imagination, I was in an induced coma when my skin was grafted. I thought about bandaids and alien flowers while creating this.”  Skin Graft is a fragrance born of trauma and as I tested this I found it initially to be an unsettling experience. Skin Graft is the heightened smell of hospital corridors and all of the associated smells that go with them. As I wore it a second and third time I came to welcome this clean antiseptic smell tinged with a bit of healing and it went from being unsettling to familiar.

skin graft

Skin Graft is a very simple composition which creates a complex olfactive landscape. Mr. Falsberg uses honey and the very synthetic Iso-E-Super to set up the ultra-sterile halls of the hospital and the slightly sweet aspect of bandages. A full indolic jasmine sambac along with opoponax and woody notes create the “alien flowers” accord but to my nose it is also an accord of healing skin as the body works hard to recover. My first wearing of Skin Graft made me a bit jumpy because Mr. Falsberg re-creates the hospital milieu so well it is hard to disassociate those kinds of scent memories.

Skin Graft has above average longevity and average sillage.

out of the blue, into the black

Photo by SaphireIo

Skin Graft is a piece of olfactory art that will not be to everyone’s taste and many will probably not even want to come close to trying it because of the hospital association. I found that over three days of wearing Skin Graft it gave me an opportunity to examine my reaction to hospitals and sickness. From the nervousness of being in the hospital to waking up each day to a familiar odor letting me know I was still alive. I don’t know if this is what Mr. Falsberg meant for Skin Graft to do but it does what any good piece of art should do; it challenges my assumptions. With the success of Skin Graft I close the same way Neil Young closes ‘”Rust Never Sleeps” because Mr. Falsberg exemplifies coming “Out of the Black and Into the Blue.”

Disclosure: This review was based on a bottle of Skin Graft I purchased .

Mark Behnke, Managing Editor

Editor’s Note: For more information on Stevens-Johnson Syndrome visit www.sjsupport.org

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9 comments

  • Wow
    Blown away by this review
    Thank you for bringing David Falsberg to my attention
    The way you wrote about skin graft in context of Neil young is brilliant
    I think Phoenicia perfumes is on my must try list
    I would like this particular fragrance because it would take me out if my comfort zone and push me
    Thank you for celebrating indies and one of the reasons I read CaFleureBon is to discover them

  • wefadetogray says:

    I adore ca fleure bon because I learn every time about one of the things I love the most in the world: scents. However, I fear hospitals. They bring really bad memories to my mind so I am not sure I can push myself to try it. You make it sound so interesting I may venture into my fear.

  • Fazal Cheema says:

    i think he probably meant the fragrance to be close-to-skin scent and i am surprised it still has average sillage

  • Mark, this was a riveting review…leave it to CfB to always introduce me to new indie lines. Having undergone surgery as a teenager and spending a week in the hospital to this day I distinctly remember the smells. Perhaps Skin Draft may not be for me but I will surely check out other offerings from this great line!

  • I work at a hospital and recently had surgery so I would be most interested in Skin Graft !

  • I’m totally hooked on Skin Graft, but not because of the hospital part, it does not conjure up those images for me…..I just LOVE the way it smells! It is totally unique, dramatic and super long lasting. Perfectly balanced between the sweet flowers and spicy, oud notes……(there MUST be some oud in there) I’m in love with the combination, my only gripe is that it does not come in a bigger bottle! We are so lucky to have David as part of our Seattle Fragrance community, he is a true artist willing to take risks to create beauty. This is just the beginning!

  • This sounds so very bizarre, to take a familiar and unsettling smell and bottle it. I am intrigued! Liked your reflections about reactions to this smell.

  • susie frankel says:

    I try not to go to hospitals, even if a dear friend is there…however, any article that refers to Neil Young is worth visiting. thanks for the “invite” to skin graft.