Odile Redon

Life is, and should be, a constant stream of new things to learn. There is an old axiom that says you should learn one new thing every day. Perfumer Olivier Durbano helped me fulfill my quota on the day the sample of his newest perfume arrived. For those who are unfamiliar with M. Durbano he has been producing a collection of perfumes entitled Bijoux & Parfums de Pierres Poemes (Stone Poem Perfumes). There have been seven previous entries and all of them have had obvious gemstone names, to me. So when I opened my package and saw the name of the eighth installation was Heliotrope I was confused. Isn’t heliotrope a flower? Why yes it is. It is also the other name for a form of red jasper often called bloodstone. Aaaand there you go, a new nugget of information. As I read the press materials I learned that Heliotrope, the stone, was used extensively throughout ancient times. The Babylonians used it to tell the future; the Aztecs used it as a medicinal stone to re-balance the body; in Medieval times if you took heliotrope the mineral and heliotrope the flower and rubbed them together it was supposed to make you invisible. Lots of mysticism attached to this stone.

M. Durbano also strives to connect each of his Stone Poems with a single accord, based on olibanum, it is like the iambic pentameter behind each fragrance. In the past M. Durbano used it as a fulcrum on which the composition moves to something different. In Heliotrope he uses it to a different effect as it is the lead line to this Stone Poem and it is surrounded with spicy heat. A floral heart then gives way to a woody sweetly resinous base. Heliotrope is like its namesake mineral as it feels like a resinous base carries dark red drops of intensity sprinkled throughout.

Human Totem by Carnisch

As I said above the signature Durbano olibanum accord (Durbano-ade?) is in place right from the start and it is used to heap spicy piquancy upon, as chili pepper, ginger, and angelica combine to create a lively opening stanza. The heart is bridged with a gorgeous rich saffron, the perfect foil for all of the heat in the top. Magnolia, heliotrope flower, and nagarmotha add a earthy floral quality to the heart with the heliotrope given prominence. Myrrh carries things into the final fragrant lines with an arid sandalwood, cedar, musk and benzoin pulling it all together into a sweet farewell.

Sheet of Red Jasper

Heliotrope has outstanding longevity and very intense initial sillage before settling down and becoming more average.

This is the eighth fragrance by M. Durbano and, as he reminded me, when you tip eight on its side it is the symbol for infinity. Heliotrope was infinitely fascinating for me to wear as it is going to be a wonderful addition to the previous fragrances by M. Durbano. If you are a fan of incense fragrances this is a line you must try and Heliotrope is as good a place to begin “reading” this collection of Stone Poems as any.

Disclosure: this review was based on a preview sample provided by Olivier Durbano.

–Mark Behnke, Managing Editor

Art Direction: Michelyn Camen, EIC

Editor’s note: If you are looking at that striking looking red juice and wondering if it would stain; the answer is it does not. I sprayed it on my swatch of test fabric and it did not leave a stain upon drying.