New Niche Fragrance Review: Molinard Habanita L’Esprit + Flanker Draw

andy-warhol

Marilyn Monroe by Andy Warhol

I have to think every time a flanker of a well-respected and loved fragrance is produced there has to be some consternation on how it will be received. Certainly there are examples where the only similarity between flanker and original is the name. It is actually much harder to create a flanker sufficiently different and still remind the wearer that it has a kinship to the original. Too often the perfume team just shoehorns in specific notes like citrus and calls it “Summer Edition” or loads it up with patchouli and vetiver and calls it “Noir” or adds a marine accord and calls it “Blue” or “Sport”. It is for this reason that flankers have a bad reputation because of the lack of thought given to the great majority of the ones produced. It is also why I always look sideways when a new one shows up for me to test.

Molinard-Habanita-L-Esprit

When I received my sample of Molinard Habanita L’Esprit my sidelong glance also included a sigh. I am pleased with the version of the original Habanita in its 1988 re-formulated form as it is extremely well done. Last year Molinard released a version called Habanita EdP and my overwhelming response was “Why?” The Habanita EdP was, I think, meant to be a compromise for people who found Habanita too strong. In removing that strength they also removed the spine of what makes Habanita so original. This was why I sighed as I looked at the sample of Habanita L’Esprit I wasn’t sure what to expect. It was labeled as an oriental with flowers and so it was reasonable to expect a lighter brighter version of Habanita. My question before sniffing it was “Do I want that?” Based on my experience with Habanita L’Esprit the answer is yes. For this flanker the creative team did everything right. They used a completely new citrus and spice opening. They reduced the floral quota in the heart and they absolutely nailed the Habanita base. This all added up to a Habanita which was easy to wear in the warm weather.

Molinard-Habanita-L-Esprit-Notes

Habanita L’Esprit opens with a bright lemon matched with mimosa all of which are dusted with nutmeg. The beginning is a zesty introduction which keeps from being overwhelming. The heart plucks three blooms form the bouquet of the original as rose, jasmine, and heliotrope are combined to remind one of Habanita. What is nice is the development is so smooth I wasn’t left looking for the rest of the heavy-hitter florals to show up. The reason I don’t miss them is the base is all Habanita as vetiver, musk, amber, and benzoin create that indelible Habanita base. Just as in the heart the base notes are not taken deeper by other notes and so they are allowed to really stand out on their own. This makes Habanita L’Esprit true to its heritage without slavishly imitating it.

Habanita L’Esprit had all day longevity and average sillage.

By the time I wore Habanita L’Esprit for the third time all of my apprehension had been put aside and I looked forward to enjoying a version of Habanita that allowed me to enjoy much of what I enjoy about Habanita while the summer was still going strong. Bravo to the creative team for creating something new which still feels like something old while still being modern.

Disclosure: This review was based on a sample of Habanita L’Esprit provided by Fragrance & Art.

Thanks to Fragrance & Art we have three samples of Habanita L’Esprit to giveaway. This is an international draw. To be eligible leave a comment naming your favorite flanker. The draw will end on August 31, 2013.

We announce the winners only on site and on our Facebook page, so Like Cafleurebon and use our RSS option…or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume.

-Mark Behnke, Managing Editor

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38 comments

  • My favorite flanker is Chanel Allure Homme Sport. I like it so much better than the original. Thank you so much for the draw!

  • It sounds gorgeous, this one is a no brainer must have for me. I adore Habanita, so I am sure I will totally love this.

  • Alien Liqueur de Parfum Thierry Mugler for women — never tried it, but I love the fact it’s supposed to have woody rum and floral notes, all things I think I would love.

  • lamar hubert says:

    My favorite flanker is Tom Fords Black Orchid Voile Fleur … When i say i LOVES me some BOVF to me its smells Dark Sensuous and RICH … I’m very heavy handed i Drowns n it when i wear it to be honest i brings the entire bottle out with me so when i go by a certain person or entering a room i douses myself with can you say HeadBanger… my friends call it The Witches Brew.. and the funniest part of it when i purchased it i didn’t know that it was a flanker i thought it was reg BO but how glad it wasn’t and i found this beautiful scent that once was reasonable and now is going thru the roof … i Hope i can win a sample of Habanita L’Espirit that i can fall in Love with the Great House of Molinard and become fluent in its langueage of scent….. p.s when it says website what do i put there i never enter contest like these due to that …. thank u Lamar

  • I had never heard the term “flanker” before, so I had to get through the first part of this review before I was able to figure out what it meant. I gather that it’s a modified version of an existing fragrance. If that’s the case, my favorite is Chanel’s Coco Mademoiselle. I don’t like Chanel’s Coco at all, but Mademoiselle is beautiful. It’s definitely one of my favorite mass-marketed, commercial perfumes. I’m in the US. Thank you for the chance to win a sample of Habanita L’Esprit.

  • Alien Essence Absolue, although the Alien Liqueur de Parfum Sounds wonderful too. I do love booze notes! I don’t mind the original Alien but I love the Absolute.

    I have never tried Habanita.

  • This may be travesty to some, but L’eau de Shalimar is so much better on me than Mama Shalimar. This is one of my fav summer scents, but hard to find now. I also agree with Lamar abou the Tom Ford. Same scenario with me, I ordered it from a discount lace thinking it was the real thing but was not at all disappointed when I saw my mistake.

  • I must stop being such a flanker snob, and be more open minded, but it always seems a pity to mess with an already good thing.
    Having said that, I do like Chanel 19 Poudre, and Habanita Esprit sounds quite lovely.

  • love love love Angel Pivoine and Angel Lys; they suit me better than the original Angel; I wopuld love to try Habanita Esprit

  • My favourite flanker is Eau Premiere because it removes the demoded rough edges from the classic no5.

  • Fazal Cheema says:

    for me, it is Kouros Fraicheur but there are others too such as Bvlgari Pour Homme Extreme and Ungaro III or is Ungaro III considered an original creation and not a flanker..

  • My favorite flanker has to be Eau de Shalimar, I have worn it all summer long. I wear it mostly for evenings, though

  • I have not tried many flankers, but of those I do know, Pure Malt would be my favourite. Thanks for the draw!

  • I know most perfumistas violently disagree but while Christalle does not agree with me I very much like the au vert version in the summer:)

  • leathermountain says:

    Chanel No 22. According to some stories (I don’t believe them), it is a flanker to No 5.

  • I love the whole Eau des Merveilles line, but my favorite of the flankers is Ambre des Merveilles! I think its the third of fourth flanker in the line.
    Thanks for the draw- I Have been curious about this line for a couple of years now =)

  • My favorite flanker is Chanel # 19 Poudre. I love it, just wish it would last a little longer. Thanks for the draw.

  • My favorite flanker is Shalimar Ode a la Vanille Sur la route de Madagascar. It’s incredible.

  • A couple of my favorite flankers have already been mentioned, but I will reiterate Eau Premiere, Hypnotic Poison, and Coco Mademoiselle. I have never smelled Habanita and had heard mixed reviews about it’s latest rendition, but I am curious about it’s flanker. I always thought the original sounded like something I would like. Thanks for the chance.

  • Jersey Girl says:

    Have to be honest, I have never tried a flanker perfume, but my favourite perfume ever was KL. Shame it has been discontinued.

  • wefadetogray says:

    The one and only flanker I have tried is Shalimar Ode a la Vanille which I loved!
    Thanks for the draw!

  • My favorite flanker is Elixir de Merveilles. I like it even better than the original, and the Amber (which everyone seems to prefer!)

    Thanks for the draw!!

  • Dubaiscents says:

    I would love to try this version of Habanita! My favorite flanker is either Shalimar Ode de la Vanilla or Alien Essence Absolue.

  • My favourite flanker at the moment would be Dior Homme Intense. I love the original Dior Homme, but feel the flanker is the better of the two. Thanks for the draw!

  • I too have never heard of the term flanker and now having read the article, I would have to say Coco Mademoiselle, which was also someone else’s fave. I would love to try the Habanita L’Esprit. Thanks for the draw.

  • My current fav would have to be Chanel Homme Sport. I like the other flankers they have, but this one is my fav!