New Niche Fragrance Review: Le Parfum Couture Denis Durand for M. Micallef + Slinky Sample Draw

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In the long tradition of perfume inspired by fashion designers it is a rare thing to find a perfume that seems like an extension of the brand over being an accessory. Back in January at the Elements Showcase in New York I was gifted with a very early sample of the olfactory collaboration between perfumer Martine Micallef and fashion designer Denis Durand. I was told then that I was embargoed from writing about it until after it was premiered at the March 28 Defile Palm Beach fashion show in Cannes. When I saw Mme Micallef at Esxence I was told to wait until after the show. Finally I am free to tell you about the new Le Parfum Couture Denis Durand for M. Micallef and I believe it is one of the very best fragrances M. Micallef has ever released. Mme Micallef and M. Durand are friends and admirers of each other’s creativity; that shared passion led to a particularly harmonious collaboration.

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Looks from the Defile  Palm Beach Fashion Show in Cannes March 2013

When you look at M. Durand’s fashion designs there is one word which comes to my mind, slinky. Not the children’s toy but the way a svelte elegant woman moves languidly across a room drawing every eye to her. M. Durand very often creates couture which that woman would wear as his silhouettes are fitted and elongating to the woman wearing them. Mme Micallef also wanted to create a fragrance which slinks into one’s consciousness and becomes unforgettable. The fragrance has a spicy opening over a richly animalic and sensual heart to end on an equally deep ambery base.

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Martine Micallef (in yellow) and Denis Durand (at far r.)

Le Parfum Couture Denis Durand enters the room on a spicy swirl of cinnamon layered over tangerine. The tangerine adds a bit of fluidity to the cinnamon so that it turns a note known for its blunt character into something which has a bit more flexibility. The heart is where Le Parfum Couture Denis Durand catches fire from the smoldering beginning as a fantastic Bulgarian rose mixes with an accord called animalis. When I was first wearing Le Parfum Couture Denis Durand I repeatedly mistakenly identified the animalis as oud. Mme Micallef has been so successful in making oud behave in whatever way she needs to achieve a desired effect I thought this was another example. When I did get the note list I had to get a clarification on what animalis is and was told it is a blend of labdanum and castoreum. The combination of animalis and rose drew me in and captured my imagination. If the rose and animalis was all that was going on in the heart it would be great but a sweet grace note, courtesy of orange blossom and honey, adds a glowing core to the intensity and it feels like the reflection of light off of satin or the shine off a bared shoulder under the spotlights. With such an intense heart it would have been easy to ease up a bit but Mme Micallef keeps the intensity level high as patchouli and amber produce a foundation for sandalwood and white musk to interact with. This base lightens up on the animalic by using the white musk but patchouli, amber, and sandalwood keep the development at a consistent volume right until the end.

Le Parfum Couture has overnight longevity and average sillage.

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I had my sample of this fragrance when we were choosing our fragrances that smolder for Valentine’s Day and I had a hard time picking anything else than Le Parfum Couture Denis Durand because this is a fragrance that fulfills everything that phrase means. It is easy for me to imagine the woman in the picture above wearing Le Parfum Couture Denis Durand because it feels like a match to the fashion. If you want a fragrance which puts the slink into slinky Le Parfum Couture Denis Durand is exactly that.

Disclosure: This review was based on a sample provided by Parfums M. Micallef.

Thanks to  Parfums M. Micallef and the U.S. Distributor Hypoluxe, we have a 1.5  ml travel spray of Le Parfum Couture Denis Durand for M. Micallef to giveaway. To be eligible leave a comment on the fragrance you think is slinky/ sexy on you and your favorite Parfums M. Micallef fragrance  or one you would like to try. The draw will end on April 10, 2013.

We announce the winners only onsite and on our Facebook page, so Like CaFleureBon and use our RSS option…..or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume.

-Mark Behnke, Managing Editor

Le Parfum Couture Denis Durand for M. Micallef

Editor’s note: I am not one who often comments on the bottle but this bottle has hand sewn lace on it so it feels much like the name implies Le Parfum Couture.  Also find the video of the fashion show where Le Parfum couture was debuted.

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36 comments

  • I’m genuinely not sure whether or not I actually have any slinky scents. The possibilities that most quickly come to mind are some of the variations on Snake Oil from Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab. Otherwise, I find there to be something witchily slinky about Ormonde Woman, but that’s a whole different kind of thing.

    I’ve never tried any Micallef scents before. I’m dying to try this one. I’ve also heard so many raves about Ylang In Gold that I have to try it at some point.

  • The notes sound right up my alley. It sounds like more of a winter scent. Is that your take, Mark?
    At the moment my favorite slinky perfume is Bijou Romantique by Etat Libre d’Orange. They describe it as a lady like scent, but on me it smoulders.
    I own and love Micallef Gardenia, and I’m very much wanting to try the Ylang Ylang. I think Micallef uses such fine ingredients that their scents really shine.

  • wefadetogray says:

    Fellanilla, Indochine, Le Labo Vanille 44, and Feminite du Bois can smell slinky on me.

    I have only tried M. Micallef Ylang in Gold but sadly I did not like it at all. I read so many beautiful things about it that my husband felt compelled to get it for me. I am dying to try M. Micallef Gaiac and Mon Parfum and Le Parfum Couture looks and sounds delightful.

  • Estee Lauder’s Sensuous Noir is my go-to slinky/sexy scent.

    I haven’t tested many Micallef fragrances, but from those that I’ve tried, Gaiac is my favourite.

    Thanks for the draw!

  • ‘m not sure I’m a slinky kind of person, but when I’m trying to be I wear Narciso Rodriguez for her – rollerball – for extra slinkiness! I would love to try Yang-ylang in Gold…

  • Victoria would be my slinky sexy scent..a gorgeous amber rose…
    thank you for this draw!

  • Atelier Cologne Rose Anonyme and Prada Amber Pour Homme Intense are sexy on me 😉
    My favourite Micallef perfume is Style.

  • I would love to try this one it does sound like a slinky kind of perfume! The ones I have and make me feel that way are Feminite du Bois and Une Voix Noire from SL both (coincindence?) . I love Yang In Gold from M. Micallef and Gardenia and I want very much to try also the Vanilla line as I have not yet had the chance to do so. Thank you for the draw!!

  • I think that Carnal Flower smells sexy on me. Le Parfum Couture Denis Durand is the M.Micallef fragrance that I want to try.

    Thanks for the draw!

  • Fazal Cheema says:

    i hate to self-praise but Lang’s Cuiron really fits my personality…my favorite Micallef fragrance is discontinued Sashka Black though i admit i have only smell 3 Micallef fragrances which i also own

  • ringthing says:

    I think my slinkiest perfume is vintage Coco, and while I haven’t had the chance to try nearly enough Parfums M. Micallef, my favorite so far is Gaiac. Really enjoyed this review, Mark; now I know what animalis means, and you did a great job evoking slinkiness.

  • Somerville Metro Man says:

    Cynthia I would say it is not a middle of summer scent but I am finding it really nice in this transition from winter to spring with moderate days and cool nights.

    Mark

  • If this perfume is slinky, I think I must learn how to slink asap. It sounds so unctuous and I would love to try it!
    Yellow Sea is so far my favourite Micallef, on my husband.

  • Victoria Casey says:

    My slinky perfumes are vintage Arpege & # 5 . I don’t believe I have had a opportunity to sample M.Micallef

  • Lovely review! I have been curious about this. Lately Gaiac and Nasreen have been my go-to Micallef fragrances. Musk Ravageur (esp. The body lotion and discontinued oil) makes me feel slinky. While it’s not overtly carnal, it has a great come-hither quality.

  • helical gnome says:

    my slinky perfume is santal noble by maitre parfumeur et gantier because my wife says so.
    I’n mot very familiar with M Micallef but I would love to try le perfume couture on my wife
    thanks for the draw and I m in the US.

  • I adore Ylang. And wear that whenever I want to feel lovely. (Sabi also does this for me…and Isabey Gardenia)

    But I love all things Micallef! My favorites? Hard to choose: Mon Parfum, Red, Floral, and Night Aoud are on my A-list.

    And can’t wait to try this one!

  • Mary Carol says:

    DelRae Amoureuse is a perfume that has a slinky feel whenever I wear it. My favorite M. Micallef perfume is Vanille Fleur – love it! M. Micallef perfumes are all so gorgeous
    (and so are the bottles, including this new one). Thank you for the drawing.

  • Gorgeous, gorgeous fragrance and the bottle is amazing, then again Micallef puts thought and creativity in their beautiful bottles. Every Micallef fragrance I own comes in an equally beautiful bottle. This one is no exception.

  • I have 2 slinky perfumes: Montale White Oud and Fredwric Malle’s Carnal Flower! Unfortunately, I have yet to try Micallef fragrances! Mark, this was a great review and thanks for the draw! 🙂

  • SisterSpecies says:

    Slinky, you say… well I don’t know that I have ever described anything in my perfume wardrobe as such, but upon thinking about it I would have to go with my much beloved Amber Fetiche from Annick Goutal. After you’re reviews of Gaiac I had to try it and this is the only M. Micallef perfume I have yet to try, but I love it! As for this Micallef creation, I think it is the only perfume bottle that has ever captivated me so… Thanks for the draw!

  • When I was a kid, my aunt left me some Chanel Cristalle. I’d spritz that on and feel slinky and ready for an evening gown. As an adult, most of my fragrances lean toward comfort, or lively green, rather than “slink.” Sometimes, I’ll wear a man’s cologne, like Jack Black’s “Signature Black Mark” and feel smoldering. I’d love to try Micallef Guaiac.

  • Maybe I’m bringing back the 80s all by myself, but a wee bit of Obsession makes me slink. Lust by Lush is also a big slinker. 🙂

  • SL’s Tubereuse Criminlle is maybe my slinky (but more heady than slinky) perfume. I’ve wanted to try this line, haven’t sampled anything so its hard to say what I’d like to try – maybe rose aoud. But glad to have a chance to enter in a draw for La Parfum Couture Denis Durand. thank you.

  • I consider “bijou romantique” as slinky
    hadn’t had the chance to try any Micallef, i’d love to win this
    as for notes, I think Guaiac could be a favorite
    thanks for the draw

  • Can’t think of anything slinky in my perfume wardrobe or in my clothing wardrobe, for that matter. Must remedy that! This sounds utterly delicious.

  • Right no the slinkiest fragrances I have are Coco and Sensuous Noir. I have never tried of this line. I would love to try a new slinky fragrance. Thanks for he draw.

  • Coco is my slinky fragrance, because my husband thinks so!!

    I would love to try La Parfum Couture Denis Durand. The bottle is exquisite!

  • After Mark’s rave, La Parfum Couture Denis Durand is the one I most want to try, although I have a couple of sample decants of M. Micallef fragrances I enjoy. As far as slinky goes, well… it varies according to mood, but in cooler months, Black Cashmere has always done it for me!!! (Thanks, and I do live in the U.S.)

  • My favourite Micallef is Night Aoud. My slinky perfume is Pink Room Darkly Audacious.
    Thanks for the draw!

  • My slinky perfume is Carnal Flower. The Micallef fragrance I’d like to try is Le Parfum Couture Denis Durand

  • Sarah Lathrop says:

    My slinkiest perfume is Serge Lutens Muscs Koublai Khan.
    I would love to try Exclusif Night Aoud and I agree, that La Parfum Couture Denis Durand bottle is spectacular!
    Thank you!

  • My slinkiest perfume is probably Nez a Nez’s Ambre a Sade. LOVE IT. I’ve been wanting to try Micallef’s Ylang in Gold, but this sounds lovely too! Thank you for the draw.