The typical progression of a perfume house is usually from simpler fragrances to those having more complex accords creating synergistic grace notes. It is notable that Romano Ricci, of Juliette Has A Gun, has almost aggressively done things in the reverse order. From the first fragrance, 2006’s Lady Vengeance, M. Ricci until 2010’s single note of Ambroxan in Not A Perfume; the aesthetic has been to look for what extreme simplicity can provide in a perfume. For the newest release Anyway it looks like the trajectory has reversed yet again as the press notes espouse that Anyway has exactly fifteen notes, no more and no less. That one of those notes is the Ambroxan that stood alone in Not A Perfume does feel like a logical progression upward from that point.

Romano Ricci

The press materials again stress the idea of simplicity although, with the recent past, fifteen notes seems downright similar to multivariable calculus compared to Not a Perfume’s simple addition. The reality of Anyway is it is much simpler in experience. Anyway goes from a traditional citrus opening to a jasmine dominated heart right down to an Ambroxan laced base.  It almost has the effect of being the partner to Not a Perfume with Anyway’s untitled subtext saying “This Is A Perfume”.

The opening is primarily a mix of lime and neroli and the lightly floral quality of neroli complements the tart lines of the lime. The heart is all Hedione displaying its synthetic jasmine quality. If ambroxan is the synthetic of the moment Hedione is the one which used to hold that title years ago. The base is the aforementioned Ambroxan along with another synthetic Ambrettolide. The mix of all of these synthetics allows for one to truly examine the ways they interact and how each adds a specific effect throughout the development of Anyway.

Anyway has tenacious longevity and average sillage.

There may be no perfumer who embraces the potential of synthetic aromachemicals more than Mr. Ricci. Anyway again makes the case that they also have a place within the palette of the creative perfumer.

Disclosure: This review was based on samples provided by Europerfumes.

Thanks to Europerfumes we have a draw for a 50mL bottle of Anyway to giveaway. This is a US only draw. To be eligible leave a comment naming your favorite Juliette Has A Gun fragrance and whether you are in the US. The draw will end on December 15, 2013.

We announce the winners only onsite and on our Facebook page, so Like CaFleureBon and use our RSS option…..or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume.

-Mark Behnke, Managing Editor