New Niche Fragrance Review: Agonist Isis + My Favorite Swede Draw

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Back to the Land by Jockum Nordstrom

Perfume should reflect the creators’ life experience and heritage. Swedish husband-and-wife creative directors Christine and Niclas Lydeen have been introducing us to their Nordic aesthetic through the perfume line Agonist since 2008. The Lydeens are also influenced by Christine’s time in Paris working in fashion and Niclas’ experience as an Art Director. This combination of style and place makes Agonist one of the more interesting fragrance lines and I am always looking forward to what comes next. For their seventh fragrance the Lydeens still want to represent Sweden but they also wanted to celebrate the birth of their first child. That is why the perfume is named after the Egyptian goddess of fertility and motherhood, Isis.

agonist isisagonist isis limited edition

As he has been for the previous six fragrances, Fabrice Pellegrin is the perfumer who has to bring The Lydeen’s vision to life. Some of the best perfumes come from a long time working relationship and based on the results it seems like Creative Directors and Perfumer are definitely working together to create something clearly different but approachable when it comes to Agonist. For Isis the top is an icy green glaze which is broken by a twisted gourmand heart of peach and caramel; which is much better than it sounds. The base turns as warm as a fire kissed hearth within the home keeping the winter at bay. The completely unique heart makes Isis into a gourmand which is delightfully different.

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Niclas and Christine Lydeen

The wintry mix at the start comes courtesy of tangerine, labdanum, and ginger. The labdanum takes the sweetish tangerine and re-winds its life cycle back a few days until it was a green orb on the branch. This takes the sweet and completely transforms it into something slightly bitter and it imparts a slight chill to things. A large slug of ginger finishes the job as it places the early moments right in to the deep freeze. This is how I like my ginger used, as something which imparts a bit of attitude along with its energy. When I first wore Isis the next thing that came out was the peach. Peach is one of the more ubiquitous notes of the fruity floral genre and when I usually detect it the next thing to come is a big old bouquet of floral notes. Except M. Pellegrin surprised me and while I was waiting for the flowers the caramel started to ooze onto the scene and while the sweet quotient was starting to rise, M. Pellegrin wasn’t quite done. Now a spicy black pepper along with a richly herbal anise attenuates the sweet and turns this into something like the Swedish candy Hallon Lakrits Skallar. The Swedish candy is a mix of salt licorice along with raspberry.  Just like Isis the mix of spice, licorice, and fruit is unexpectedly delicious.  The base notes create a roaring bonfire of warmth with amber, benzoin, and vanilla all contributing to the flames.

Isis has all day longevity and average sillage.

Agonist has once again managed to capture a characteristic Swedish feel without turning into something trite. The Lydeens and M. Pellegrin are to be congratulated for continuing to expand the geography of perfume beyond the usual places. They have given birth to a very unusual gourmand that I really look forward to wearing throughout the autumn.

Disclosure: This review was based on a sample provided by Intertrade Europe.

Thanks to Intertrade Europe we have a sample of Isis to giveaway. This is for our US readers only. To be eligible leave a comment on what your favorite Swedish thing is; IKEA and meatballs not allowed as answers. Also be sure to let us know if you’re in the US. The draw will end on October 7, 2013.

We announce the winners only on site and on our Facebook page, so Like Cafleurebon and use our RSS option…or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume.

-Mark Behnke, Managing Editor

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41 comments

  • Wow…that scent sounds amazing. I love the musician Lykke Li, while my husband is a huge fan of the metal band Sabaton.

  • In the US. I love the design and style of Swedish cottages. The spare but warm feel that they evoke with white walls and natural materials.

  • I am in the U.S. and my favorite Swedish thing right now is the alternative rock band Miike Snow. Thanks for the draw!

  • I’d love to see the churches in Sweden, like the All Saints Church, they look beautiful.

    I live in the U.S. thank you.

  • Fazal Cheema says:

    Agonist’s glass jars are works of art. For me, I find Swedes to be quite beautiful as people and in terms of brand, IKEA may be more popular now but I think Volvo will always remain Sweden’s most iconic brand though it is foreign owned now

  • My favorite things about Sweden are minecraft and jumping lop bunnies! Those bunnies are amazing, and watching a lop bunny obstacle course competition is more fun than any other sport I know. The Swedes love their rabbits, and the bunnies seem to love their Swedish guardians. So I would love to try anything by Agonist. I am in the US.

  • The perfume is intriguing, I’m a big fan of ginger but not so much peach; interested to smell them together. I know this sails dangerously close to meatballs, but I remember as a child in the 60s when the traditional Smorgasbord restaurant came into fashion. There was one in Chicago that we visited frequently and my favorite thing was pickled herring. I’m in the US.

  • I’m in the US- my favorite thing would probably the films of Ingmar Bergman. Or maybe Pippi Longstocking.

  • Wow, I am really intrigued by the notes in this fragrance. It sounds wonderfully different. I am in the US…and with the last name of Lindquist, there are many things that I love that are Swedish, but I miss Lefse the most as it used to be a regular staple growing up. And btw, Ikea has nothing on my mother’s Swedish Meatballs. 🙂

  • Isis sounds amazing. I love peach and ginger but have never tried a perfume that pairs them.

    My favorite Swedish things are Pepparkakor (Swedish Ginger Thins), a delicious ginger cookie with tea that always reminds me of winter. My other favorite Swedish thing is The Cardigans – I’ve been a fan since Lovefool. 🙂

    Thank you for the review and giveaway. I’m in the US.

  • My favorite Swedish thing right is the potential Stockholm bid for the 2022 Winter Olympics. Applications are due in about a month and I really hope they go for it!

    This perfume sounds PERFECT for me. I am in the US. Thanks for the draw!

  • Chris Schaefer says:

    My grandfather immigrated from Sweden many years ago. The rest of the family still lives there and I love having a connection to my cousins! I love having this heritage.

    I am in the US.

  • “If you change your mind, I’m the first in line, honey I’m still free, take a chance on me!” ABBA is definitely my favorite Swedish thing! I live in the U.S.

  • US
    Mazel tov! Perfume to celebrate a first child sounds wonderful…

    My favorite Swedish thing lately is Anno 1790, which is a TV mystery series set in Sweden in 1790, when the peasants were restive and rebellion was brewing.

  • Elizabeth T. says:

    Thank you for the draw! I’m in the US. Growing up, I was fascinated by the tradition of Lucia on December 13. I would love to experience it someday!

  • I am in the US, and my favorite Swedish things are Pippi Longstocking and ABBA 🙂 Thank you for the draw.

  • I saw a photo once of a cozy snow-covered cottage in a village called Algabacksryd. The image drew me in and made me want to be there, so that would be my favorite thing. I am in the U.S.

  • Doreen Stelton says:

    I am in the US and my favorite film of all time is the Swedish film The Seventh Seal. Also HUGE HUGE fan of Red Ice Radio, Henrik Palmgren, produced in Sweden!

  • My favorite Swedish thing in my life is my husband! These notes do sound lovely. I live in the U.S.

  • Their packaging is just beautiful and I am glad they offer a more accessible option too. Magnus Nilsson prepared one of my favorite meals. Such a talented chef.

  • I would love to try this! There are many things from Sweden that I love 🙂 Stieg Larson books, music (Lykke Li, Peter Bjorn & John, etc – awesome stuff coming out of Sweden these days), and definitely foods like lingonberry jam, cardamom rusks to dip in coffee or tea, pepparkakor cookies, vodka and many other delicious things. 🙂

  • I was very into Lykke Li a few years ago, especially Complaint Department. I am in the US. Thank you.

  • Zlatan Ibrahimović, one of my favorite active players. Looking forward to watching the match versus Germany next week. US here. Thanks.

  • I could never forget growing up listening to ABBA. Going to see Mama Mia recently really brought back so many memories. I live in the USA. Thank you so much for this draw.