Just when I think: If one more collection shows up in my mailbox, I’ll scream…something magically appears that blows me out of the water. Perfumer Seth Kornegay has managed to create and compose a veritable embarrassment of riches with his first collection, seven of which are out and two of which are “settling”, as the perfumer likes to say. Niche. Luxe. Artisinal. We perfumistas use these words to help define fragrance, its quality and composition-Mr. Kornegay has, in a very cohesive and articulate way, managed to capture all three of these qualities in his line. All fragrances, including the mens’, are all perfume concentrations, ranging from 29-34% fragrance. All are constructed with the highest quality raw materials and crafted in numbered small batches. His fragrances are all natural, and organic where possible. If melon, muguet and myrrh are listed, you can bet your last back-up bottle that they are really in there.
Seth Kornegay
Seth Kornegay is a native of Philadelphia, PA and a graduate of University of Pennsylvania with a Bachelor’s Degree in business. He has, like most of us, always been fascinated with scent and fragrance. Bored and rather jaded after many years using and wearing mass market releases, Seth strives to rise above the clutter of “perfume by numbers” scents littering the mall perfume counters and actually create something real; that makes a statement, exudes luxury and rises above the majority of the two-dimensional synthetic modern designer/mass market offerings. After years of independent study and working with organic chemist Helen Feygin, this perfumer has dovetailed science, business, passion and the purest raw materials to release a stunning collection of truly fine fragrances.
First Lady Michelle Obama
Orla is a perfume inspired by First Lady Michelle Obama, and shows just how easy Seth makes creating a complex bespoke fragrance for an individual seem. After determining her favorite fruit and flowers and spending time learning about her, he has fleshed out a sublime and regal fruity floral befitting such a lady. A meshing of a soft yet dry pear and juicy melon with fully bloomed water lily and demure violets engage you gracefully and maintains a definite green aura that oscillates between delicate deliciousness and sheer floral grandeur.
Orla perfume was inspired by First Lady Michelle Obama
Based around the “Big Four” (lilac, rose, jasmine and tuberose) without centering on any of them, this perfume exudes femininity and strength while having a gentle but firm presence. Many have used this accord in other scents, although none have “framed” it with quite as much sophistication. Wisps of frankincense waft around golden amber, in the finish, as it meets sandalwood, musk and sweet tonka, Wafting an air of the mysterious East while feeling down-to-earth and comfortable, this is sweet and flowery without being trite. Sillage: good. Longevity: very good.
Pink Ribbon by Alexandra Sheldon
This house’s newest release (1 July) is entitled Undenied and is meant to celebrate cancer awareness with its fresh and upbeat character. The notes composing this are meant to pay homage to the positive energies and hope those battling cancer have. Twenty-five percent of the proceeds from this scent are being donated to cancer research. A frosted lemon, thick with zest, meets neroli’s slightly musky softness and, without smelling like lemon Pledge or your typical eau de cologne, manages to set a light and ephemeral tone that still has definition. A pure heart of muguet reins in the citricity, adding a palpable green layer that maintains the fresh prelude; while bringing out its hopeful tender heart. Hints of wildflowers play tag with precious barks and heady spices. Soft yet compelling whispers of musk hint at how hard the struggle really is, yet it ends triumphantly with a warm glow of tonka and vanilla-without descending into the realm of gourmand. Sillage: very good. Longevity: good.
Tres Belle Femme is Mr. Kornegay’s “perfume portrait” of a statuesque and beautiful woman. Her bright demeanor and gentle strength are illustrated with bergamot blended with rosewood and a thin wedge of melon represents her fun and playful side. The citrus and wood accord creates sheer warmth that is neither too blinding nor too oppressive. She is already enchanting; but until you get closer, you do not notice the subtle finesse of her movements or her kind and elegant air. Soft, slightly milky, peonies and heavenly wisteria add lightness to the almost carnal jasmine paired with cool and collected orris root. Even when she is surrounded by her friends and suitors, she maintains poise and charm while tonka, sandalwood, amber, musk and vanilla allude to the more sensual woman within. Whether she is dressed to the nines in haute couture or planting flowers in her garden-she is beautiful, from the inside out and each meeting with her reveals some new charming detail or wonderful discovery. Sillage: excellent. Longevity: very good.
Samuel L Jackson
Homme Forte, according to the website, is a scent for “a self-assured man whose presence ushers quiet whispers”. This perfume, actual parfum, delivers on that promise. Something utterly masculine, without being brusque or macho, greets the nose as woody bark and spices are blended with the cool, yet bitter, herbaceous green of armoise (mugwort, Artemisia) and the result is something spectacular. Anchored firmly with a genteel white amber and topped with citrus and blossoms, this radiates strength without being overbearing or showing off. Spices, ranging from piquant to smooth and sweet, ooze from this radiant and refined slightly oriental woody scent. The evanescent citrus keeps the usually denser base notes from taking over as cool fronds of forest herbs and leaves maintains the perfect balance of confidence, charisma and class. Sillage: very good. Longevity: excellent.
Petra is the only scent labeled “unisex” and adds a fine Islay single malt scotch into the mix. I expected “boozy” in the opening but was pleasantly surprised by smoky, earthy and woody. Resting on the skin, however, this has an almost Scotch-like vaporous quality to it as it warms and rises off you without smelling like you crawled out of a bottle. Soft aromas of flowers and hints of lavender play peek-a-boo in and around dark regal woods and lighter sap-stained trees. Smoky and silken, the finish of this is ever-so-slightly camphorous with an herbal edge that gets sweeter and more subtle as it fades, like a lingering embrace. Sillage: average. Longevity: very good.
David Bowie and Elizabeth Taylor
Whether you find yourself interested in one of the above perfumes or Essence d’un Homme with its classic blending of citrus, spice, greens and woods or the opulence of Femme Sophistique and its heady trio of tuberose, Parma violet and Bulgarian rose or you just really appreciate fine fragrance, you have got to try these. On first sniffing my generous and sturdy handmade samples I was (believe it or not) speechless and any fears I had about some new guy charging triple digit prices were immediately allayed. Forget what you think you know, and let your nose be your guide. Other companies charge similar prices for mostly synthetic compositions. Here is one time you will be getting what you paid for, without a doubt.
Disclosure: Reviews based on samples from Seth Kornegay Maison de Parfum
Thanks to Seth Kornegay we have a very special reader’s choice draw of a full 50mL bottle of any of the perfumes reviewed in this article. This is a worldwide draw. To be eligible leave a comment naming your choice if you should win. The draw will end on July 13, 2013.
We announce the winners only on site and on our Facebook page, so Like Cafleurebon and use our RSS option…or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume.
–John Reasinger, Senior Editor