Chang'e and Hou Yi
Throughout many mythologies the moon goddess has always taken a lover. Selene had Endymion in Greece and Chang’e had Hou Yi in China. It is this strong and regal companion of the gentle moon deity, that Jane Cate, natural perfumer for A Wing & A Prayer has honored with her new perfume SkyDancer. Released on December 4, 2013 to coincide with her husband Mark’s birthday, she has created a superb companion fragrance to the gentle osmanthus and apricot rich Chang’e. Make no mistakes, this is not a flanker…it is a companion scent meant to balance and complete the other, as yang does yin.
As you know, from reading Elise's Osmanthus in Perfumery article and Tama’s review here, Chang’e (the Moon goddess associated with osmanthus) took and drank both the last two remaining elixirs of immortality given Houyi by the Western Queen Mother Xi Wang Mu for building her summer palace. After Chang’e ascended to the moon and became its presiding deity, Hou Yi became quite bitter and went from divine archer, hero and savior to bitter tyrant. After his death, his spirit ascended to (and built a palace upon) the Sun; making him and his beloved together once again in the heavens-as one lights the day and the other the night.
Just as Houyi now balances Chang’e in the heavens, SkyDancer truly completes Chang’e on a material and olfactory level. Having a great passion for layering fragrances, Ms. Cate was looking for the perfect counterpoint for osmanthus without overpowering it. She finally decided upon saffron. The blending of these two materials remains gently floral and slightly spicy, allowing the fruity aspects of the flower to shine through. Where Chang’e was sweet and flowery, she was also soft and ethereal and wafted rather gently. This scent opens with a breathtaking woodiness as cedar and cashmeran blend and smell more like noble cypress and smoky oud to my nose. The saffron absolute with pink pepper keeps just this side of piquant but maintains its exotic air.
The osmanthus-saffron accord in the heart has the added waxy warmth of frangipani and the steely earthiness of orris root creating a floral mélange and remains just under the woody and tantalizing oriental tones; yet still blooms fully and richly. Dulcet whispers of crumbly resin teased me from the moment I donned this. In the ultimate dry down its much more amber dominated and veers even more into oriental territory with creamy sandalwood and a veil of musk. Saffron, added in both the top and the heart adds a more masculine dry spiciness to SkyDancer when worn alone. When layered over and allowed to engage with his lover Chang’e, a superb blend of flowers and spices are achieved.
Created with many similar notes, these two have a definite affinity for each other. It is in their differences, however, that they are truly wonderful and what makes them mesh so well with each other. He is woody, rich and strong. She is flowery, fruity and soft. They make the perfect couple. As the midnight moment draws closer and the New Year turns, it is customary to have someone to kiss in the coming New Year. Jane has Mark, and now Chang’e has her Hou Yi in SkyDancer. Sillage: good. Longevity: very good.
Wishing everyone a happier, healthier and more prosperous New Year in 2014!!
Thanks to Jane Cate we have a draw for a 0.25 oz. purse spray of Skydancer in our last draw of 2013. This is a US only draw. To be eligible leave a comment on what you are wishing for in the New Year or why Skydancer appeals to you and whether you are a US reader. The draw ends January 4, 2014.
-John Reasinger, Senior Editor and Natural Perfume Editor
We announce the winners only onsite and on our Facebook page, so Like CaFleureBon and use our RSS option…..or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume.