Jacomo. That name, it just sounds so…French, so artsy. From their very first perfume (Eau Cendree released in 1970) to the release of the It’s Me duo earlier this year, this company has always created iconic and amazing fragrances. One word, more than any other, makes my stomach fall when we are talking about perfume. That word is “reformulated”. There were already a couple flankers of both Silences and Jacomo de Jacomo, and this is to be expected when something sells so well.
I am of the “if it isn’t broken why fix it” school of thought; so any attempts to reformulate (or reimagine) something so very classic usually, in my opinion, end up resulting in a watered down mess. Most mass market perfumes, these days, are built on the “less is more” principle. Both of these fragrances remain very true to the originals…and believe it or not, I may actually like one of the modern ones more than I liked the original!
I was recently remarking to a coworker that you know you are getting older when you see old fashion trends coming back en vogue. Classifications like “chypre”, “oriental woody” and “floral green” are slapped on perfumes nowadays; yet, they all smell (more or less) the same. What the perfumers, here, have done is nothing short of true homages to timeless classic scents that keep the feeling of their ancestors alive while introducing modern sensibilities. Imagine listening to your scratchy old 33rpm records; only they have been reformatted on a digital compact disc format. The sound is crisper and cleaner…and the same song sounds just as good, if not better, at a lower volume!
The original Silences was released in 1978. It was a grand green floral with a heart of springtime flowers wrapped in rich rose and jasmine layered over a woody musky base dripping with vetiver and oak moss. Eau de Parfum Sublime (created by Serge Majoullier of Mane) kept the slightly bitter and resinous galbanum and cassia opening and removed the orange blossoms and tart citric notes, while adding a crisp and fruity pear accord. The original (incredulously enough) did not have a lot of aldehydes, but the modern one does…and they are glorious.
The green in this creeps around you like a cloud of soft whispers and expands to a sillage that is noticeable, yet classy, and never gets obnoxious. The body of this scent is unabashedly floral. The cool green of iris and the sharp edges of narcissus are relaxed with lily-of-the-valley and a powdery rose. Gone are the creamy jasmine and the fruity hyacinth, but the remaining notes are blended in such a way that you do not miss them. The delightful trail left by this is still very grassy (thanks to vetiver) and mossy, yet not as strange or distinct as the original was. Vague woody notes linger in the background giving this a gentle strength. This is one of (if not THE) best reformulation I have sniffed! Vintage aura, gorgeous green floral notes and a subtle, yet tenacious, drydown: extremely well done. Sublime is a very apropos title for this particular flanker. Sillage: good. Longevity: very good.
One of my most beloved scents of all time (“nautica”) was re-released as “NAUTICA Classic” and, much to my chagrin, completely corrupted. Anytime I see the words CLASSIC or ORIGINAL after a fragrance name, my palms sweat a little and my hand shakes as I press the atomizer. Here, there was no real reason to do either. Jacomo de Jacomo was released in 1980. Think the Village People, Studio 54 and “Hey baby, what’s your sign?” Chest hair and half unbuttoned polyester silk shirts worn with gold chains were all the rage for guys. This particular fragrance is up there with Paco Rabanne Pour Homme, Polo and Lagerfeld in the super sillage Hall of Fame. An herbal overdose combined with sage and lavender meets a spicy and drily floral heart only to land on a bed of leather, woods and sweet earthen muskiness…those were the days!
Jacomo de Jacomo Original keeps all of the sexiness with none of the cliché trappings or almost overbearing opening. Galbanum, lavender, cardamom and bergamot are all still present and there is a definite verdant accord, only now it is spun of a more ephemeral stuff: hyacinth stems and muguet. This is a clean green with just the right amount of bitter. Original oozes elegant sexiness without ever getting too sharp or brusque. A well-mixed blend of spices dominates the heart. The warmth of cinnamon with a touch of cumin blends with geranium, rosewood and a nutty heliotrope. Much of the woodiness of the original has slipped into the base of this and some other lovely flowers (rose, ylang ylang and hawthorn) polish up our guys “rough edges” so he still looks sexy in his slim jeans and dark t-shirt with five o’clock shadow.
The brooding and shadowy sweet muskiness and animalic leather finish is still here, but pared back somewhat. Still dark and smoldering, this takes patchouli and amber (for a hint of the exotic and mysterious) and unites it with the sweetness of tonka beans over a sturdy frame of sandalwood and cedar. Strong enough to exude character and individuality, this is also sensitive and sweet (without seeming too effeminate). It’s still very manly despite the flowers and a much softer touch than its predecessor had. Tough but tender, this scent possesses the perfect blend of old-school masculinity and modern sensuality, without sacrificing any of its “original” rugged charm. Sillage: very good. Longevity: good.
These reinterpretations are both worthy of the names they carry and bring two very vintage fragrances into the twenty-first century for a whole new generation to enjoy. I would definitely recommend these to people who appreciate older more classic scents, but have a hard time wearing them. I can honestly say, maybe for the first time, that these new versions rock!
Disclosure: Reviews based on samples from Jacomo Paris via Crafting Beauty.
Thanks to our friends at Crafting Beauty we have a reader’s choice of a full bottle of either Silences EDP Sublime or Jacomo de Jacomo Original. Leave a comment with your choice. We will draw one winner on September 28, 2012.
We announce the winners only on site and on our Facebook page, so like Cafleurebon and use our RSS option…or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume.
–John Reasinger, Editor
Editor’s note: If you live in the New York City area this Saturday September 29th Sniffapalooza is presenting a Master Class with Francois Damide at the New London Luxe at 246 8th Avenue from 2-4PM. More details can be found at this link.