The house of Gucci has released a new scent for men, Made to Measure, to complete the fragrant pair it started with the 2012 release of Premiere for women. Both scents were meant to be glamorous and a throwback to the stylish classic Hollywood era. Over the years this house has released some iconic and classic fragrances; yet many feel that the brand is not what it once was. These two scents are more of a tip of the proverbial hat to a bygone era-not only in fashion and fame but fragrance as well.
Frank Sinatra & Ava Gardner
Many of the raw ingredients that made those old time scents so powerful and dynamic are now, sadly, regulated or not used anymore. Many times it is the bottom dollar line that requires synthetics be used, in lieu of any naturals at all. Gucci has managed to walk the thin line between cost-effectiveness and true beauty with these scents. All of the nostalgia and the spirit of that era has been captured, elegantly bottled and redone with a more modern sensibility and flair.
Inspired by the gorgeous gowns of the Premiere couture collection at the Cannes Film Festival in 2010, this scent is meant to bring out the star in any woman. Opening like vintage champagne, a blast of intense bergamot and sweet softly citric orange blossom magnify each other, yet remain effervescent and uplifting. Radiant yet demure, Premiere captures that chic green floral opening many vintage perfumes have without any aldehydes or a shred of moss. A soft white floral accord is laced with a soft musk, making it deeper and much more sensual. As it becomes more voluptuous and flirtatious, it remains just this side of prim and proper, yet the undercurrent of lingering musk betrays a smoldering passion.
Even the bottle, plated in a translucent gold finish and adorned with the Gucci tag and signature buckle charm, conjures images of wealth and luxury. The bottle design is the same as the other Gucci by Gucci women’s perfumes, released earlier in the last decade, and crafted of heavy, quality glass. The bottle truly suits the perfume, as Premiere has that classic beauty and richness, yet it is much finer and sheer like the gold covering the actual flacon. With very few rather common simple materials Gucci has created a very sleek stylish scent that remains simple and streamlined while wafting class and elegance. The finish of balsamic woods girded with a soft leather note keeps it down-to-earth but still maintaining a hint of that vintage glamor. While it’s not exactly anything Marlene Dietrich would have worn, it does have a definite vintage aura without ever being too “loud” or smelling dated. Sillage: average to good. Longevity: very good.
The other half of this “power couple” is Made to Measure. Inspired by the Gucci made to measure bespoke suit, this scent was meant to convey an air of style and sophistication. It is obvious from the initial sniff of the first spritz that it is well blended and, without smelling like Polo or Quorum, follows a classic masculine scent structure and adds a few more modern touches. The opening of Calabrian bergamot, Tunisian neroli and French lavender capture that freshly shaved washed and powdered feeling of a well groomed man and warms it with anise seed adding a delicious spiciness. Without going completely gourmand, cinnamon and nutmeg are sprinkled over dark sweet plums. The soft spices cut the often heavy thickness of the plum, while letting it add an almost fluid smoothness to the dry powdery bark and nut.
Water lily is listed, but if it is in here I do not detect it, per se, only feel a subtle softness and comfort underneath the other notes. Juniper has been added, as well, keeping things exciting and spontaneous. This green slightly sharp note is what really stood out in Made to Measure for me. The contrast of the pungent aromatic green against warm dry spices, a soft floral and juicy ripe fruit really encapsulate a much more modern masculinity; as opposed to the staunch and rigid definition it had in the mid-twentieth century. Just the right amount of machismo has been mixed with sensitivity and softness resulting in a truly refined, but not “too fancy” fragrance. The finish is a blur of swirled oriental notes that remains close to the skin but smell divine. Labdanum, patchouli and amber add a sweet woody resinous touch to the soft Gucci leather note. Politely done without sacrificing elegance or smelling too ubiquitous, this is my favorite of the “Gucci by Gucci” men’s scents. Sillage: good then fair. Longevity: very good.
Clark Gable & Joan Crawford
While Premiere took very few notes and turned up their intensity to bring out the inner glamor, Made to Measure takes richer more intense aromas, only it streamlines them in a “less is more” manner. The idea of women being dressed to the nines with their men in the simple straight lines of a well-tailored suit or tux comes through in the packaging, the ad campaign and most definitely in the fragrances. I am a big fan of vintage perfumes and colognes and had pretty high hopes for these two, as you can imagine. While these may not be iconic or classic they are a step in the right direction.
Disclosure: Reviews based on my mother’s bottle of Premiere and a generous sample of Made to Measure from my local Bon-Ton.
–John Reasinger, Senior Editor