NEW FRAGRANCE REVIEW Sonoma Scent Studio Nostalgie “Getting Dressed Up Again”

I think all artists like to look back at the past of their art form and find inspiration. Lately some of our finest indie perfumers have been doing that and creating modern vintage perfumes. Each perfumer has their reason for doing this and there seems little common ground other than inspiration by the classics. This trend is a bit surprising to me because it is antithetical to the current trends one finds for cleaner, lighter and easier to wear fragrances. It occurred to me that this is exactly what has happened to our idea of “dressing up”. Back when the classic perfumes were the rage so was wearing a jacket on a night out, for men, and a nice dress and some jewelry along with high heels and stockings, for women. In short the way we dress tends to also match the way we wear fragrance. Today’s designer jeans and a nice shirt, for both sexes, seem to coincide with our fragrance trends. Nice and easy.

Laurie Erickson of Sonoma Scent Studio steps up with her attempt to re-create a bygone past with a modern fragrance in Nostalgie. One of the things about Ms. Erickson is she always states where her inspiration comes from on her website and here is the thesis for Nostalgie in her words:

I wanted to create a perfume based on notes from the classic scents I love, but updated with lighter animalic notes and softer aldehydes.”

It is the end of that sentence that I think is what contributes to Nostalgie’s success. It is the more intense animalic notes and the sharpness of the aldehydes of most of the classic perfumes that can be the most off-putting. For most of us who love vintage perfume it is that power that intrigues us but it sometimes makes it difficult to give them a full hug. Watch the hair darling it took hours. In Nostalgie by tempering both the animalic and the aldehydes Ms. Erickson has created something you want to hug and hold close, no worries about mussing up the hair.

For New Year’s Eve I wrote about another Sonoma Scent Studio fragrance, Champagne de Bois, and if you are familiar with the aldehydes in that scent then the beginning of Nostalgie is similar but, as Ms. Erickson wanted, also softer. In Champagne de Bois that aldehyde bouquet is nose tickling and vibrant. In Nostalgie the vibrancy is there but sotto voce. The aldehydes here tend to slither across my consciousness but they grab my attention for all that subtlety too. Peach is also present in the top notes and it is the usher down the aisle to the floral heart of Nostalgie. Jasmine, rose, and mimosa are the florals Ms. Erickson chose and these three notes make up the foundation of some of the inspirations that Ms. Erickson was using, I’m guessing. It is here where she makes the wise choice not to tinker too much with a classic combination as I don’t think there are too many perfumistas who complain about jasmine, rose, and mimosa. What Ms. Erickson does do is to make sure she keeps it at the same volume as the aldehydes on top and the animalic notes in the base. She wanted softer and so she uses violet to tone the floral triptych down just a bit. Now the base is where Ms. Erickson goes for the “lighter animalic”. Leather is present first and it is a surprisingly light accord for all of that and it accentuates the slightly sweet smell of refined leather by adding a bit of vanilla and myrrh to keep it towards the sweet. Then slowly and languorously like a long opera glove being removed one finger at a time a truly amazing Mysore sandalwood takes over. Ms. Erickson adds a bit of musk to rough up the edges of the sandalwood but this sandalwood and the quality it adds is the final drop of vintage class that zips up the back of Nostalgie before she heads out for the evening.

Nostalgie has overnight longevity and surprising sillage for an extrait. People will know you’re wearing this.

I am very curious to see what some of my younger perfumista friends will think about Nostalgie. Will they get the homage to the classics? Will they get that this is a fragrance to wear out in the way we used to mean when we were getting dressed to go out? Or more will they just say this smells like nothing I own and I need more. I hope so as Ms. Erickson has crafted something very memorable in Nostalgie.

Disclosure: This review was based on samples provided by Sonoma Scent Studio.

Editor's note: The pictures are all of Suzy Parker who was the "it" cover girl for much of the 50's and also the face of many of the classic cosmetic lines of that time like Revlon and Coty. She was reportedly the first fashion model to earn over $100K/year. For some reason she was my mental companion every time I wore Nostalgie. I have a feeling she would've loved it.

Mark Behnke, Managing Editor

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13 comments

  • taffynfontana says:

    I admire Ms. Erickson for her refreshing and fragrant point of view I look forward to sampling her latest creation.

  • I just dabbed a bit of this on the other night and was instantly reminded of all the cosmetic aromas of my grandmother’s bathroom, which was also a part of my grandma’s general smell. I have always loved that smell and for me, this scent brings it quite vividly to life. You are right, the longevity is amazing.

    I am very much enjoying this return to a more classic aesthetic in perfumery, especially the fearless indies.

    I loved “Watch the hair darling it took hours.” lol

  • This concept appeals to me as I seek the classic aldehydes, violet, oakmoss and animalic notes in fragrance.

  • Out of my three favorite indie perfumers Laurie is on the top of my list for everything she makes is pure magic 🙂 I grew up loving vintage and Nostalgie sounds like a fragrance I would adore. I guess I will have to dig out the credit card and order me some samples 🙂

  • Queen Cupcake says:

    Another SSS frag for my “must try” list! I loved the photos. That first glance of Suzy in red fairly shouted “Revlon!” Funny how some images stay with us for so long.

  • Excellent review, love the photos! Perfect. I am looking forward to trying this; my SSS sample list keeps growing.

  • Great review. Very beautiful fragrance, i was able to try this also and instantly fell in love with this fragrance. Reminded me of my grandmothers vanity also., which brings back wonderful memories.

  • Well, I’m a “younger perfumista” I guess (30), and I have never once enjoyed the fragrances that most people my age and younger have worn. I have always loved the classics – that was what my grandmothers and aunts wore (my mother has allergies so was never much into perfume. This is a woman who threw out a whole 100 ml bottle of Opium perfume with the dab stopper. Threw. Out. I cried when I found out). I am really loving all the indie ‘fumers who are taking the classics for an inspirational ride again. We can’t lose that perfume history, and we need to re-expose the younger generation to them. I frankly find the icky scents popular with the younger crowd to be offensive and cloying, and I would never mourn the loss of them, such as Tommy Girl, if they were blotted from the collective memory. 🙂 Needless to say, Nostalgie is going on my to-try list!

  • This sounds intriguing! I don’t usually do well with aldehydes but am wondering if a softer and lighter hand would make them work for me….

  • I have this one in the purse spray. It is not to be missed. What a beauty! The imagery of the opera glove being removed one finger at a time is perfect for the drydown. Wonderful essay, Mark!

  • Lovely review! I am so pleased with the “retro” mini-trend we’ve been seeing over the last, oh, year or six months or so, particularly from the indies. DSH and Tauer and SSS have all produced really beautiful, wearable, vintage-inspired scents with weight and body and confidence, but with a soft touch.

    Miriam may be my favorite of these vintage-inspireds, but Nostalgie is clutching at her petticoats. I love them both. Nostalgie may be Laurie’s most smooth and polished scent to date, and it is just so, so beautiful.

  • I’ve heard such good things about this, and now such a great review! Amazing. Can’t wait to try it. I’m kind of obsessed with aldehydes now, too.