August 29, 2011
NEW FRAGRANCE REVIEW: Serge Lutens De Profundis “Eros and Thanatos” + De Profundis Draw
"Vitriol D’Oeillet" was the scent of dandyism. "De Profundis" is the scent of literally loving to death; passionate diehards who go far beyond earthly love. "De Profundis" marks the first words of Psalm 130 from the Bible, a hymn dedicated to hope and redemption. It is also the title of a poem from the famous collection "Les Fleurs du Mal" by Charles Baudelaire, one of the most famous names in French literature, a poete maudit (and one of the first to break the rules of conventional poetry and morality of that time) who brought imagination and complexity of feelings to his works. "De Profundis Clamavi" which means "I shouted from the Depths" is an ode to melancholy and boredom … especially in the case of Baudelaire.
"De Profundis" catches the eye almost before the nose. The color is actually a deep purple, powerful, similar to a magic potion which will invite you to partake of its charms. Magic, mystery, and even the name of this elixir invite contemplation. Serge Lutens created a fragrance that plunges into a secret world of the unknown, a source of all fantasies. A world where Love, Death, Eros and Thanatos meet
De Profundis is an innovative departure, extremely ornate, almost heady; of a meeting between violet and chrysanthemum. Then, slowly, as it swells it heats up and is adorned with round and leathery notes, making it more identifiably Lutensienne. Buoyed by high heat, it also shows a touch of incense that reconnects with the biblical reference. More discreet than "Vitriol D’Oeillet," yet it is a skin scent which "dares” to be all out there because it is pretty darn sleek and dark.
Violets and chrysanthemums, as two inseparable companions, will be most noticed. In France, the chrysanthemum is the flower that dresses the tombs on November 1, All Saints' Day, to honor the dead. A flower whose symbolism is popular despite that it is dedicated to the dark, even in misfortune. Violet is a flower rather maligned by the French and considered quite dated. Yet these two flowers deliver a shared message forming an absolutely stunning perfume, a flowery liquor which has only one desire: to be totally stunning. Like all the perfumes of the highest quality,
Dino Valls-De Profundis
"De Profundis" is not engaging the first time it touches your skin, but as you wear De Profundis you will embark like Orpheus into Hell and will reemerge on Earth hypnotized as if in a narcotic trance.
With De Profundis, Serge Lutens seems to have invited us into a fragrant world darker than usual. The name, the perfume, the composition, the color of the juice, everything is an invitation to contemplation and dark thoughts. Yet, it is also a habit with this great master perfumer, to expose a hidden side. In De Profundis that come from the chrysanthemum flower, which may be a flower of misfortune for Europeans but in Japan is a floral symbol of joy, the same one that marks the seal of the imperial family.
Hard to believe that the Lord is an afterthought …
De Profundis
Eau de Parfum – 75ml – € 120
Exclusively at the Salons du Palais Royal (Paris)
ReleasedSeptember 1
Note that "De Profundis" will be released in two limited edition engraved bottles, two pieces of art.
We have a draw for a courtesy of Serge Lutens, of at least one concrete and courtesy of our Contributor Claudia Kroyer one sample vial. To be eligible leave a comment on an aspect of the dark side in poetry, religion, music, painting,history, your life or another Lutens fragrance. Draw closes August 31, 2011
-Emmanuelle Varron, Editor
Art Direction -Michelyn Camen-EIC
Makes me think of the “God Warrior” from WifeSwap…”DARKSIDED!”…Most good art comes from a “dark” place in my estimation. Even movies with happy endings tend to have some misery or heartache. I find that good comedies also have this element of darkness, even silly ones like “Groundhog Day”, which addresses existential angst in a new and hilarious way.
I love the dark side as it informs and shapes the light.
Reminds me of an old TV show I used to watch “Tales From The Darkside”
This fragrance sounds so interesting… Loving to death… It kind of reminds me of the death and resurrection of Christ, and His portrayed love by dying for the world so there would be a better life for those who love and believe in Him after their own deaths. A love that surpasses the bonds of death…And can still live.
I find the use of violets in this fragrance interesting. I think of it as a very dark, solemn flower, not bright and sunny as daisies or as most other flowers. Perhaps, this violets were planted near the cross as a sign of commemoration and love and a sign to remember the promise of eternal life…
For me the dark side of poetry are the different feelings of pain that poets express.
Just as I’m discovering fragrance and it’s many “sides” and abilities to elicit emotion I’m also discovering my dark side and tendency to be swallowed by it. I think for many of us it is easier to be consumed by the darkness rather than revel in and appreciate the light in our lives. The dark side, whether it be in art or our own lives, is something to appreciate and embrace as a path to a life full of light and happiness.
De Profundis sounds like such an intriguing scent and one I would love to experience.
I’d love to try this! Thanks for the re-draw
Always in for Serge! This is sure to be one interesting frag. The Light shall prevail over the Dark.
The dark side of literature must often be the truth, the stark naked truth which of course leads to light, but that first encounter….phew!
No-one claimed it , that is sad it sounds so gorgeous.
I have always been attracted to the dark side: in film, in literature, and in fragrance- which is probably why SL is one of my favorite perfumers- please put my name in!
When I die, I want to wear in my coffin my Versace silk dress with my violet blue suede shoes, cream stocking, and my hair, neck and hands liberally perfumed with De Profundis. This is the way to leave in style.