New Fragrance Review: Norell New York (Cèline Barel) + Not Your Grandma’s Perfume

Norman Norell and Yves Saint Laurent

Fashion Designers Yves Saint Laurent and Norman Norell talking outside  restaurant in New York.1965 — Image by © Condé Nast Archive/Corbis

Norell. The name that symbolizes an ideal in classic American high fashion.  The man behind the label was Norman Norell (1900-1972).  Norman came from humble begins in Nobelsville, Indiana, USA to become fashion legend.

marilyn monroe richard avedon norman norell sequin gown

Marilyn Monroe wearing a Norell sequin gown: Photographed by Richard Avedon

Norman made his way and became an icon of the fashion industry by working hard, studying and his innate gift of a never ending eye for quality,  simplicity of form and function.  His designs were sought by wealthy women and he was the Couturier to American Movie stars; Lauren Bacall, Gloria Swanson,  Marilyn Monroe and  five First Ladies (Jackie  Kennedy to Laura Bush).

fashion designer  norman norell  inspiration board cafleurebon

From the Norell New York Event showing 1960 Norell fashion and 2010 Tom Ford designs (Photo:Hernando)

That eye led him to become one of the most revered names in American fashion.  Even though he is long gone, his influence is still felt and he was ahead of his time compare to French Designers like Courreges and Yves St Laurent.  Tom Ford certainly was influenced by his signature style. Where fashion goes fragrance almost always follows   In fact, he is responsible for bringing to the market the first fragrance by an American designer, Norell in 1968.

vintage 1968 perfume ad  norell

Vintage 1968 Norell Perfume Ad showing the New York Skyline

The original Norell was made in conjunction with Revlon by perfumer Josephine Catapano of IFF (Estee Lauder Youth Dew).  It is a fantastic example of the green laden scents that would come to dominate the 1970’s.  Its composition made heavy use of galbanum accentuating a lovely mix of florals that included iris, carnation, hyacinth, jasmine, gardenia, rose, and last but not least, ylang-ylang.  The base was very seductive mix of vetiver, oak moss, sandalwood, and touch of vanilla.  Those years were pre IFRA and although rife with politics, the key ingredient. Iranian Galbanum, with its sharp “Love it or Hate it” knife’s edge was easily sourced.  In 1968, the scent was modern, sophisticated, stylish, and almost over the top without being too flamboyant.  Upon its introduction in high end department stores it was met with immediate success and remained popular for many years.   Unfortunately as time marched on, the fragrance left the public mindset and faded into near oblivion.  .

norell new york cafleurebon event 2

Norell New York Display (Photo: Hernando) August 19, 2015

Fast forward to 2015 and the Norell brand has been revived with a new perfume set for the lofty heights of two of the best luxury stores in America (Bergdorf-Goodman and Neiman Marcus) entitled Norell New York (EDP) by another IFF perfumer,  Cèline Barel.

galbanum orris raw materialsNorellNewYork

Norell New York Press Display of Raw materials including Iranian galbanum, jamine,  Orris Butter, Madagascar vanilla and Vetiver: Photo Michelyn

Michelyn attended the Press event with Contributor Hernando Courtright and was shown that Norell New York used a few key ingredients that were found in the original including Galbanum Jasmine, and Orris.

michael avedon  riley keough norell sequin  gown cafleurebon

Photographer Micheal Avedon  shot the Norell New York ad featuring Riley Keough in a vintage Norell gown (photo: Michelyn)

It’s a completely new perfume- targeting a 21st century customer. It is indeed modern, well put together, and very feminine.  The celebrity element was brought in with spokeperson and model Riley Keough, the grand-daughter of Elvis Presley.  In fact, the Norell legacy lives on in the ad campaign photography of Michael Avedon who is the grandson of Richard Avedon, who worked closely with and  personal friend of Mr. Norell.

cafleurebon norell new york event

Norell New York Floral Display (Photo Hernando)

The initial blast of Norell New York is a barrage of flowers and pear with a hint of citrus drenched in a nearly gourmand toasted sweetness.  Now, right off the bat, even though galbanum is listed (and a huge part of the original), I am not getting it out of this at all. For many people, this will be a very good thing as the note isn’t considered “modern” anymore.  As for the floral character, surprisingly, no particular flower stands out.  The first to make its presence is peony. I do get the jasmine, but it is a bit – no…a lot – more subdued than the 200 petals per bottle advertised.  I don’t detect gardenia or orchid at all.  Overall, it’s more like an “impression” of flowers rather than any particular floral accord of individual constituents. The most striking part isn’t even the florals…it’s the aforementioned sweetness as it develops into a more distinct vanilla”ish” accord.

The mid to base stages of the perfume carry on from the top in a fairly linear fashion.  After several wears, I’m still not getting a vetiver note.  About an hour into it is when I notice the orris butter.  The gorgeous scentof orris butter is upstaged by an almost nutty/vanilla accord (a person actually told me it smelled like hazelnuts).  The end of the fragrance is a slow fade away into a very clean and pleasant musk.

Perfumer Celine Barel IFF

Perfumer Cèline  Barel of IFF (photo: Michelyn)

Overall, I think that the perfume hits the mark for the group the company wishes to attract. It does smell very 2015. The $1500.00 baccarat bottle is breathtaking using a baudruche gold cord that harkens back to another era.  There is no doubt that good quality raw materials were used and that Cèline Barel is a talented young perfumer  and one to watch.  For the modern young woman who wants a beautiful feminine scent, in a gorgeous bottle,  certainly the brief was fulfilled.  Another thing is for sure, there’s nothing “vintage” about Norell  New York . It was never intended to be for Grandma or Great Grandma.  And perhaps that is a good thing for many of our readers.

Norell New York notes: bergamot, pear, mandarin, jasmine, orchid, gardenia, galbanum, peony, musk, orris butter, sandalwood, vanilla, and vetiver

Disclosure: I received my sample from Norell New York; Editor in Chief Michelyn sent it to me

Aaron Potterman, Vintage Perfume Columnist and perfumer for Maison303

Art Direction: Michelyn Camen. All Photos were taken by Michelyn and NY Special Event Contributor Hernando Courtright. August 19, 2015 at the Norelll New York Press Event

norell new york cafleurebon

NORELL NEW YORK Eau de Parfum mini bottle (Photo: Hernando)

Thanks to Norell New York we have a 7.7ml mini bottle of the EDP for a US registered  reader. To be eligible please leave a comment with what you might like about the Norell New York and if prefer modern or vintage perfumes, Draw closes 9/8/15

We announce the winners on our site and on our Facebook page, so Like Cafleurebon and use our RSS option…or your dream prize wil be just spilled perfume

 

 

 

 

 

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

− 1 = 6

15 comments

  • Pear is a new note for me, and I’m excited to read this review! I think I love the ingredients in the vintage fragrances best, and the simplicity, but I like the combinations and global feel of more modern scents. Wonderful review! U.S. Resident.

  • As someone who has bought and read on a number of vintage perfumes, I have been well aware of Norell brand though never have smelled it..but it is a great thing they may have created quite a different scent now but they also have taken some major notes from original such as galbanum and orris. it is now aimed at upscale clients, thus, i am intriqued if new version is more luxurious in feel than vintage one which was aimed at mass market. I used to think vintage creations are always the best but i am always evolving with learning and experiences, thus, i have adopted much more open attitude towards new creations now…new creations benefit from innovative aromachecmicals that didnt exist before and vintage ones are not always found in pristine condition

  • My mom wore Norell! She bought it in Bloomingdales and wear it when she would go out for the evening all dressed up. I do love the bottle and the nutty vanilla appeals to me. I like some vintage perfumes mostly Guerlain and Lâncome.
    I think that company was really honest to say that this is NOT Norrell but Norell New York
    Never heard of Cecile Barel but will be looking for her name

  • I bought Norell at the drugstore with babysitting money in the early 70s and I’m still a fan, so I’m intrigued by the way it’s been updated. I usually prefer vintage perfumes. Thanks for a great draw, CaFleurebon.

  • I love some comebacks in perfumes that are better the second time around. Don’t get me wrong I do love vintage perfumes and own some myself but some reformulations are just better. I love experiencing the work of new and upcoming perfumers so I would love to get this to check out the work of Celine Barel. I am in the US and a registered reader.

  • Sandalwood and vanilla stand out as notes I would like in Norell New York. I do love vintage fragrances that have stood the test of time, but modern perfumes with quality ingredients, brought together by a perfumer’s deft hand, are my preference. I’m in the US. Thank you for the interesting review and beautiful pictures.

  • I would love to try a fragrance with prominent sweet and nutty notes. I don’t have much experience with vintage perfumes, but the bottles are so elegant that they must smell just as wonderful. I’m in the US.

  • What an excellent review. I love all the background information regarding the Norell name and the original fragrance. I do prefer modern fragrances over vintage in most cases. I love nothing more than hearing about a new perfume launch and building anticipation until I am able to get to the store to check it out. In recent times, I am often disappointed though. Maybe Norell New York will be the exception! I love florals and would hope that the gardenia would stand out in this. I also am a huge vetiver fan, which as noted by the author is hard to detect in Norell NY, but it is still worth a try!! I am in the US and a registered reader.

  • Donna Spiegel says:

    I find myself reaching for a classic “grown up” perfume from time to time, which is what I hope this new Norell would give me. It certainly sounds beautiful, grown up and very lady like, yet modern enough to be in the now. Enough of a throw back but yet today. I’m in US and registered, so would love a mini. thank you.

  • I like the feminine slant of the perfume description of the new Norell. Although I like vintage perfumes, I think I would like to experience the new Norell. US. Thank you!

  • Very descriptive review! The nutty/gourmand aspect appeals to me. I did have the chance to try original Norell years ago, and am curious if I will notice any similarity. Vintage scents often interest me, but don’t always work on my skin. When they do though, they are magnificent. I’m in the US, thanks for the draw.

  • I prefer modern perfumes and would like to wear Norell New York’s “barrage of flowers and pear with a hint of citrus drenched in a nearly gourmand toasted sweetness”.

  • The orris butter heart and ‘nutty-vanilla’ dry down sound just about perfect to me! While I have considerably more modern perfumes in my collection, I’m also attracted to vintage scents and intend to explore them more in the future. I’m in the US – thanks!

  • Cathy schall says:

    Box is very misleading. I almost ordered it thinking it is the original norell, but then i read it was created in 2015. The ingredients are different from the original. Im glad I read it without ordering. To expensive to order without smelling it first.

  • Heather Campbell says:

    I have tried both the old version and the new version. The new version works much better for me since it’s a lighter scent and I happen to be a migraine sufferer. I have been able to find it on Ebay and Bonanza. I should also mention one other celebrity who used the original Norell- Broadway, TV and Movie actress Eileen Heckart- (think “Butterflies are Free” and the Oscars in the early 70’s).