NEW FRAGRANCE REVIEW Montale Dark Purple “Plum The Depths”

Many perfumistas associate color with the fragrances they encounter. I am usually not one of them. If I’m playing word association and you throw a color at me I am very unlikely to name a fragrance in response. For instance if you named my favorite color, purple; my response would be regal, Prince, or grape. Even now as I write this I can’t come up with a fragrant association and that’s trying way too hard. Purple is a rich deep color to my vision but unknown to my nose.

Pierre Montale has taken it upon himself to help me with my fragrant color blindness with his latest release Dark Purple. One thing I know about any fragrance from Montale is it will be rich, deep and powerful. Dark Purple is all three of those. M Montale chooses a dark purple fruit, plum, as the central note in Dark Purple. Just like almost any Montale fragrance I’ve tried it starts out strong and only intensifies throughout the development.

The plum note M Montale uses as the nucleus around which he wraps Dark Purple is lush and juicy. Early on he leavens it with a bright shiny orange note. That citrus quality has the effect of adding a bit of yin to the plum’s yang. The plum sticks around as the orange fades and it is joined by rose, and patchouli. Those two notes match the plum in intensity and depth and this is where Dark Purple really does live up to its name as there are depths to be “plummed” here and I spent hours over my time wearing this doing just that. The base is amber and ambrox and unfortunately for me the ambrox diminishes my personal enjoyment of Dark Purple to its fullest, as it is present here in all of its screechy quality I find irritating.

Dark Purple has overnight longevity and sillage to burn. People will know you’re wearing it all day and all night.

I really enjoyed the intense plumminess during most of the development of Dark Purple. It turned for me because of my ambivalence over ambrox and I know many of you don’t share that ambivalence. If you don’t, I think Dark Purple could be a really spectacular fragrance for you to try. For me the ambrox made this a little less interesting than it could have been based on the beginning. So instead of purple this left me a little blue over the opportunity lost.

Disclosure: This review was based on sample purchased from The Perfumed Court.

Managing Editor’s note: I have the name as Dark Purple but I have also seen this listed as Black Purple with the same note list so I believe they are the same fragrance.

Mark Behnke, Managing Editor

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6 comments

  • Mark, I hate to say it, but I have no idea what Ambrox smells like. I’m sure I’ve smelled it. I guess I need to get some for my perfumer’s kit so I can identify it.

    Nice review, though, and it sounds promising. I enjoy a good fruit scent if it’s done well.

  • Ambrox
    Used in portrait of a lady Frederic Malle in a huge way
    Another 13 le lebo
    Juliette has a gun I am not a perfume
    Sandal 33 le
    Baies rose le labo
    Escentric molecules 2
    Mink byredo
    Hiroshima mon amour
    Light blue by Oliver cresp made it first
    It’s a synthetic molecule by firminich

    I think Geza uses it in the most bold way and it’s even in Mille et un roses
    I am Not the chemist. But for me I can only wear a perfume with it in small quantities as it is really a marine note dry and kind of obnoxiously powdery
    Another 13 and portrait of a lady smelled awful on me
    Ambroxan is easier and is warmer and ambery can be musky
    There you go from the molecules from a moron of the group
    With two chemists I know they can give you the dilutions etc
    Eyes glaze when I read too much science

  • Thank you Michelyn! I know what you mean about the eyes glazing – I made it about halfway through Luca Turin’s chemistry book…

  • Beautiful; review is right! that purple rose looks so royal to me. I am such a lover of purple deep and rich purple that has a story to tell. I am into Figs this year. But I have nothing with plum-notes. Based on the visuals alone you provided in this review my attention is piqued.
    Thanks for the review:)

  • This sounds quite interesting, Mark, but you scared me with the Ambrox warning. I really don’t mind it in Portrait of a Lady, Santal 33 (both of which I love, and some of the others that Michelyn mentioned, but, for example, in Byredo Fantastic Man and Tauer White, it was just too much. I may just sample this anyway, since plum is a note I really love and doesn’t appear often enough, in my opinion.