NEW FRAGRANCE REVIEW: Mona di Orio Le Nombres d’Or Rose Etoile de Hollande + Perfume Draw

It is a difficult thing to lose an artist too soon. The loss of their potential is what those of us who know them through their art miss the most. That connection between an artist and those drawn to them feels very personal because an artist has the ability to connect with someone on an emotional plane without actually knowing them. It is why when an artist will create no more we mourn, too. Mona di Orio is an example of this kind of loss in the olfactory arts.

Mona di Orio had just completed a spectacular run of perfumery ending with her release of Le Nombres d’Or Oud when the sudden news of her passing was revealed in December of 2011. I had begun to see her aesthetic expand dramatically especially with the Le Nombres d’Or collection. She seemed to be interested in exploring the interstitial nature of supposedly well understood notes. By using a carefully selected array of complementary and orthogonal notes she would highlight not only the brightest aspects of the titular notes but also the shadows and depth of the same note. Le Nombres d’Or was the height of this kind of exploration as she took the most overused note in contemporary perfume and showed everyone that there was so much unexplored territory to discover.

A few months after her death we received news that she had finished a last Le Nombres d’Or called Rose Etoile de Hollande and now it is here to be enjoyed. According to the press materials the fragrance is based on her study of a climbing rose which adorns the walls of the Maison State Blanche in Cabris, France. My experience of this fragrance made it feel like a day in the life of these roses. Starting with the dewy blush of the petals at dawn through mid-afternoon’s full glory straight into the cooling deep aspect of twilight. This Rose develops at the pace of a time lapse loop; it is as revealing and mesmerizing as those loops often are.

At the beginning of this scented day the rose is there, of course. Mme di Orio uses a mix of Bulgarian and Turkish Rose as the spine of this fragrance. In the early going it is the slightly greenish quality of the petals which is in ascendancy. This green tinged closed-up quality is coaxed out by the presence of Calabrian bergamot. Then she chose the cherry vanilla aspect of the aldehyde Heliotropin and an amazing lush peach to add something different. This is an example of the orthogonal nature of Mme di Orio’s style of composing. The peach and aldehyde work at right angles to act as the olfactory equivalent of sunrise burning away the early morning mist. The heart takes the especially spicy aspects of the Bulgarian and Turkish roses and accentuates it with clove. Geranium keeps the light green theme going underneath and vanilla bridges the Heliotropin. Patchouli and cedar add the power of a rose in its full glory fully open in the sun.

Twilight falls in the base as a dense cloak of amber, benzoin and balsam surround the rose as it gets set to slumber. The benzoin is the lead voice in the ensemble at this point as it turns the rose notes into support of its resinous lead vocal. Amber and balsam add some bass/base notes to the final throes before nightfall.

Rose Etoile de Hollande has outstanding longevity and average sillage.

Is Rose Etoile de Hollande as groundbreaking and spectacular as Oud? No, but few artists follow up such a watershed achievement with something even greater. What Rose Etoile de Hollande is, is the continuation of the kind of perfume making Mona di Orio has championed in the entire Le Nombres d’Or collection; finding interesting combinations to illuminate and confound expectations. On that score Rose Etoile de Hollande is on a level with Cuir, Vanille, Tubereuse, Ambre, Musc, and Vetyver. As a complete work I believe this collection will easily stand the test of time and be seen as the most creative time of Mona di Orio’s life. While Mona di Orio may not be here in life her olfactory art will ensure that she will always be remembered at the end with a single rose.

Disclosure: This review was based on a sample provided by Mona di Orio Parfums.

Thanks to Jeroen Oude Sogtoen, Mona's business partner, we have a 5mL rollerball of Rose Etoile de Hollande to giveaway to one lucky reader. To be eligible leave a comment naming your favorite Mona di Orio fragrance or which one you think would be your favorite. We will draw one winner on July 5, 2012 via random.org.

We announce the winners only on site and on our Facebook page, so Like Cafleurebon and use our RSS option…or your dream prize will be just spilt perfume.

-Mark Behnke, Managing Editor

Art Director: Michelyn Camen, Editor-In-Chief

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95 comments

  • Thanks for the draw! I’ve not tried any MdO scents, but this rose sound so lovely. I also really want to try Vanille, which I think could be a favorite!

  • I have a hard time with MdO fragrances and only love three on myself d’Or Musc, Jabu and d’Or Vanille and I am hoping since I love Rose fragrances that this will be another winner for me 🙂

  • I love her strange and wonderful Oud (that just edges out her Vanille), but I’d love to smell a Rose that has such promise! My quest for the perfect rose–MY perfect rose–has been going on for several years now. Perhaps this is The One!

  • I have, unfortunately, been unable to sniff any fragrances from Mona di Orio yet, but I am particularly intrigued about Musc, Vanille and, of course, Rose Etoile de Hollande, which features many of my favorite notes (heliotropin, benzoin, amber, cedar and -obviously- rose)

  • Farawayspices says:

    I have not tried Mona Di Orio’s creations, though I think Rose Etoile de Hollande and Tubereuse sound wonderful. Lovely review, and accompanying artwork!

  • Beautifully written. Mona’s work touched me deeply, I felt like she was an old friend just from her creations. I am one of those that had the kind of connection that you spoke of. I am so grateful that Jeroen and those that are also a part of MDO are letting her work still be enjoyed. Honoring her as they are. I adore all of MdO fragrances., so looking forward to some of the first be revisited. My current loves are decants that I hold dear, Oiro and Nuit Noire and of course Oud. So looking forward to Rose Etoile de Hollande.

  • My favorite MdO…OUD!!! So gorgeous. But I also enjoyed Vanille and Tuberose. Thanks for this wonderful draw.

  • This is definitely a hard one…I love almost all of MdO’s perfumes (at least almost all I’ve managed to get samples of), but Oud is definitely my favorite. Thanks so much for this draw!!

  • amberosmanthus says:

    What a heartbreaking loss. I haven’t tried any of her fragrances yet. After reading your wonderful articles, I will have to. I suspect Oud would be my favorite, but I’d like to try them all. I do have a troubled history with rose. I’d love to see if this one can change that. 🙂 Thanks for the opportunity!

  • Dream catcher says:

    what a beautiful review I can visualize the slow motion of a rose unfolding
    The art was magnificent
    My favorite Mona di Orio fragrance is musc

  • My favorite Mona di Orio fragrance is Vanille, followed by Jabu.

    I remember the wonderful in-depth interview Editor Michelyn conducted of Ms. Orio a couple of months before Ms. Orio’s passing. She seemed like such a great woman to know. She was gone too soon.

  • From those I’ve tried, Vanille was the definite winner. It’s such an interesting interpretation of it.

  • Hello Michelyn and Mark.Thank you for that fabulous review,in which,I,too was in that garden watching those roses,bud,bloom then die.The only fragrance of Mona’s I have tried was jabu…..but I’m kinda thinking this new rose might just fit right into my collection.
    Thanks for the draw.

  • Rose is my favorite perfume note so I would love to try her take on it.Rose Etoile de Hollande sounds mesmerizing

  • I’ve not tried Mona di Orio perfumes, but judging by the descriptions I think the Tubéreuse would be fun to try. In the meantime I hope I win the rose, since I was just out smelling roses in the rain today. Does anyone think roses smell better in the rain?

  • A tribute to a beautiful life and such a gift that we are left with this last perfume . heartfelt and circumspect yet joyful I read your words several times
    An olfactory artist like Mona Di Orio painted complex images of fragrance that touched me emotionally
    Ambre and oud are among my favorites but Jabu brings tears to my eyes

  • My favorite of the Mona di Orio fragrances I have tried so far is Musc, although I dearly love Oud, too. I think this Rose could give them a run for their money!

  • cheesegan says:

    My favorite Mona di Orio perfume that I have tried is Les Nombres d’Or Vétyver, that or her Les Nombres d’Or Vanille.
    Your review was wonderfully descriptive.

  • My favourite Mona di Orio ( inspite of all the love I have for her Nombre d’or collection) is Nuit Noir from her signature collection.. a study in spices and corrupted white flowers..a controversial scent by a controversial lady..

  • alexander says:

    My favourite and the best perfume for the last year is Oud from the Les Nombres d’Or collection.I think it would difficult to create someting exceptional as Oud but I’m very impationate to try Rose Etoile de Hollande.Thanks for the great review!

  • ‘she will always be remembered at the end with a single rose’-so beautiful,thank you!My favourite so far is Vanille!

  • Wow!! Great article! Well my favorite is he Oud it is simply unsarpassable! I would love love to try her rose as I am in the search of the perfect rose scent and I have thefeeling that this will be the one!! Thank you for the draw!

  • angie Cox says:

    Amytitis is my favourite fragrance by Mona .Being a fragrance master I would love to try a rose by her.

  • marcopietro says:

    I love all MdO fragrances but Cuir is my favorite. Thanks for this draw!!

  • My favourite fragrance by Mona is Les Nombres d’Or Ambre, but this one sounds very interesting, as I am also quite fond of rose…

  • I haven’t tried any of hers… but the oud one always looks so fab. The tuberose one sounds delicious too!

  • JAntoinette says:

    I was heartbroken when I heard about Mona’s passing; I respect her work very much, I fell in love with Lux upon first sniff, but sadly I can no longer find it (I believe it was discontinued). She had a unique signature in her work and I enjoy wearing something that I know was a labor of love from a true artist.

  • Vanille and Cuir are my favourites, but unluckily I never tried the Signature collection, Nuit Noire must be amazing!
    Thanks for the draw.

  • Heliotropin and vanilla added to rose makes Rose Etoile de Hollande sound like something I’d love! Thannk you for the draw.

  • I must say I have struggled with all her creations that I have sampled, but Rose Etoile de Hollande has everything I like, so I am convinced to like this. The Bulgarian and Turkish rose are favorites of mine, in particular.

  • This rose sounds amazing.

    My favourite Mona di Orio fragrance is Musc. Thanks for the giveaway!

  • What a lovely giveaway.

    I have never tried a Mona di Orio scent, but I do have a feeling I would love both this fragrance and the Oud release.

    Thanks!

  • I have only tried the Mona Di Orio Vanille. This rose sounds very pretty. Thanks for the draw.

  • Nice review, Mark! Sounds amazing,

    I like many of Mona’s scents, but I really love the Vanille. That is as overused as oud, really, and usually very sweet. She brought out the sensual smokiness.

  • Nathalie Grainger says:

    My favourite of Mona’s fragrances would have to be Amiytis because of my love of green and musterious scents. It takes me back to the launch party in Amsterdam and seeing Mona’s face as people discovered it. It also reminds me of Amsterdam seen through the eyes of Jeroen- one of shimmering canals and windlblown rides on the back of his moped en route for the station. I love all of her fragrances but this is the one that makes me weep.

  • I have never smelled any of her scents, unfortunately, except vicariously through reviews. Oud of course is at the top of my to-try list, along with Vanille. But really they all sound so spectacular! Rose Etoile sounds incredible, like walking to his house near where I live with the mos amazing rose garden. I love walking there at dawn if I am awake, and then again in the middle of the day–the blooms do warm, change, and grow as the day goes on!
    please count me in, I would love to experience this scent!

  • Hello and thank you for another lovely review and giveaway! I think that I would love Vanille most, but I haven’t tried any of her scents yet. I hope at least I’ll get to experience Rose Etoile d’Hollande

  • Les Nombres d’Or Cuir impressively captured the nostalgic smell of my father’s well-worn toolbox, and now I am utterly smitten with her work. Thank you for the generous drawing.

  • Christy C says:

    I think Tubéreuse would be my favorite. I have not tried any yet but they sound wonderful! Thank you for the draw.

  • Heather P says:

    Ambre or Vanille sound very interesting to me…but so does this! Thanks for the draw!

  • Unfortunately, I have not smelled any of these yet. Vanilla sounds most like something I would like. What a lovely homage to this very creative woman.

  • This sounds very interesting- rose has really become a favorite smell for me. But I am sure that I would enjoy Les Nombres d’Or Vetiver and Les Nombres d’Or Oud as well. Thank you for the draw, and for the sensitive review.

  • I wont be very original I’m afraid. Oud is everybody’s favorite and mine too

  • I haven’t been fortunate enough to try these fragrances, but I would guess Vanille might be my favorite. I do love Roses too, though.

  • My favorite is Vanille, in competition with Musc. All I’ve tried so far have been good though!

  • RIP Mona di Orio!

    I never had the chance to try any of her masterpieces but I read many positive reviews about them.

    I think my Favorite could be LES NOMBRES D’OR VANILLE. From the notes it looks like a great Oriental.

    Thank you for this review. Wish you all the best!

  • I still can not believe in her passing away, such a big loss-but fortunetely she will be with us through her work.
    My favourite one is Oud- amazing take on agarwood, far from being banal, so different than hundreds of ouds currently on the market.
    Thank you for your impressions and draw!

  • This is a beautiful article. I love the link between Mona di Orio and the Netherlands. It now seems very fitting that the first time I tried her perfumes was in Amsterdam! It was Mona di Orio Les Nombres d’Or Musc that captivated me and that is my favorite of the line, though I also enjoy Vanille, Oud, and Carnation. I would love to win the rollerball of Rose Etoile de Hollande! Thank you for the great review!

  • I love the deep spiciness of Les Nombres d’Or Vanille! Definitely my favorite.

  • Rose Etoile de Hollande would be my choice, especially as it was her last creation. I guess it tinges the fragrance with sadness in a sense but within all beauty lies a hint of sadness perhaps? What a beautiful woman, striking photo that begins your review Mark, a classical face, touches us all-

  • ringthing says:

    I haven’t had opportunity to try the Oud but Les Nombres d’Or Vanille is just gorgeous. Rose Etoile de Hollande sounds wonderful, too, thanks for the drawing.

  • I’m so excited about this fragrance because I’m so impressed with Mona’s artistry. I have the Vanille, which is my absolute favorite vanilla fragrance. And I’ll still on the hunt for my perfect rose fragrance. Could this be it?

  • I would most likely like Les Nombres d’Or Musc the most. It sounds lovely! Thank you!

  • Sampled oud, musc, vetyver, cuir and vanille.

    OUD is without a doubt one of the most awesome perfumes EVER created!

    Cannot wait to see how Mona did “Rose”!

  • TimeaZsofia says:

    Unfortunatelly I have not smelled any of Mona di Orio fragrances, but for me, Les Nombres D’Or Ambre sounds very exciting.
    Thank you for the draw.

  • What a wonderful draw! I think the Tubereuse would be a favorite for me as much as I love the notes, although I have not tried this line. In fact, the new rose fragrance might be the one, since I adore roses, and this one is named after a particularly fragrant crimson one.

  • My favorite Mona di Orio is Lux. I love its ambery-citrusy start, and the woody base.

    I’d love to try the new rose perfume! Thanks!

  • Thank you a lot for lovely review and so gentle impressions! My favourite Mona di Orio’s creation is Nuit Noire- so animalic and carnal, tribute to the night and oriental Lutens’ creations. Hopefully it would come back someday.

  • I’m interested in her Musc and the Oud with its osmanthus, but I think the one that would likely be my favourite is this beautiful sounding Rose Etoile Hollande with its spicy heart and touch of geranium.
    It is still hard to assimilate that she is gone.

  • LexfordRose says:

    I haven’t had a chance to sample any of these wonderful sounding fragrances. I would guess that this Rose Etoile Hollande might well be my favorite. Thank you so much for the review and the draw.

  • Naming a favourite MdO perfume is practically impossible as I love all of them. But I’d say my last MdO purchase, one I’m enjoying immensely is Vetyver.

  • Well, I have not had an oportunity to sample anything from this line. However, after reading this beautiful review I think that Rose Etoile de Hollande would be a favorite.

  • Janet in California says:

    Les Nombres d’Or Vanille is beautiful. Rose Etoile de Hollande sounds lovely too.

  • matildaben says:

    My favorite is Oud but because of its great complexity and high cost I save my small decant to wear on special occasions. I would say my other favorite is Musc and it is much more adaptable to daily life.

  • I have Cuir in my collection and it is my favorite with Musc and Oud a close number 2 and 3. Can’t wait for Rose Etoile de Hollande.

  • I’ve been in the mood for richly spiced vanilla lately, even though it was over 100 degrees outside yesterday. I would probably enjoy Les Nombres d`Or Vanille. Thank you.

  • I have yet to sample any perfumes from this house, but I’ve heard many good thihngs about Les Nombre d’Or Vanille.

    I’m sure that my favorite would be Rose Etoile de Hollande! (-;

  • Queen Cupcake says:

    I have not yet tried any of the Mona di Orio fragrances but I have been waiting for a superb rose perfume to come along…so I think Rose Etoile de Hollande could easily be my favorite! I really liked the way Mark described the scent unfolding over time as day into evening. Thanks for this drawing!

  • I haven’t tried any Mona di Orio fragrances either, but I’ve heard it’s an outstanding line of fragrances. This sounds lovely. I would guess my favorites would be this one or the Vanilla.

  • My favorite is Vanille, but I have been waiting for the
    Rose Etoile de Hollande!!!

  • mona di orio’s cuir fragrance is amazing..wish she had not gone so soon..she was really passionate about creating artistic perfumes

  • my favourite is Cuir.
    such a strange feeling to talk of a future release, mostly in the past tense- such a tragedy
    May she rest in peace and long live through her creations

  • I was so sad and shocked when I heard of Mona’s passing. I had only had the chance to try Cuir, and really love it. I can’t wait to try more from this unbelievably talented artist, who was taken from us too soon.

  • Because of this review I think I would like Rose Etoile de Hollande the best of Mona di Orio’s works.

  • I’ve never tried any of these, but the Vetiver sounds up my alley! This rose sounds terrific, too. Thanks for the review!

  • Hands down, my favorite is Nuit Noire–it brought me back to perfume years ago. And I cannot live without Carnation or Amyitis. I will be sad when any of those run out. Like with all her other perfumes, I’m sure I would love this one.

  • I love, Love! Tubereuse. I bought a bottle and received it in January and have already used about a third. I would love to be entered in the draw:).

  • Carnation is my favorite of hers. I had the pleasure of meeting Mona, when she debuted her first three fragrances at Bergdorf Goodman, and I purchased Carnation after our short conversation. I loved it so much, and was so pleased to meet and speak with her. What a sad loss.

  • My favourite is Vanille. The best fragnance I own. And I feel that I’ll end up with a bottle of Rose de Hollande too. 🙂

  • I found out about Mona through a path of perfume discovery. It began with a book called The Lantern by Deborah Lawrenson, in which she describes a fictional perfume called Lavande de Nuit. In reading Ms. Lawrenson’s blog, many readers wondered if the perfume was real. She said it was not, but then listed several lavender based perfumes that were similar in nature to her magically described perfume, such as Guerlain’s Jicky.

    This led me to a few perfume blogs, to learn more about Jicky and other great frangrances of old. In my research of Guerlain’s frangrances, I read about Mona saving her money as a young girl to purchase L’heure Bleue, and her desire to study perfumery, which led to her 16 year apprenticeship with Edmond Roudnitska in France. It was only by chance that I found all of this, and now I’m fascinated by her life and art.

    I have samples on order right now of her collection, which should arrive any day. As soon as Rose Etoile de Hollande is released, I will order that too, before making a final selection (or two). I also have on order, L’Heure Bleue, as I want to understand the scent of the hour of blue twilight, along the Seine, that insprired her long ago.

    Thank you for your lovely review.

  • I have tried all Mona Di Orio perfumes except Rose Etoile de Hollande. I like “different” perfumes, so Cuir is my favorite.
    Thanks for the chance to win.

  • Alberto d. Bignardi says:

    Absolutely my favourite is Cuir! I’ve met her in Milano she was a great nose, and a really human girl! Tnx