Riccardo Tedeschi and Alessandro Brun of Masque Milano (Photo:TSF)

Masque Milano Creative Directors Alessandro Brun and Riccardo Tedeschi and their scented work delights Editor in Chief Michelyn Camen and I here at Çafleurebon. Cécile Zarokian’s wondrous Tango and Julien Rasquinet’s atmospheric Russian Tea made our Best of Scent 2014 hit list. Anything new from the boys was always going to be eagerly awaited. I love the concept of Masque Milano, the assembling of an olfactory opera, a collection of acts and scenes played out in compositions commissioned from a carefully selected group of inventive and adventurous noses.  I heard whispers they were working with narcissus and I was very intrigued. It is a note I find utterly fascinating in scent but one that is rarely handled with imagination or delicacy. If anyone could find a theme and mood, it would be Alessandro and Riccardo. Working this time with Cristiano Canali, a concept emerged of a dandified, decadent floral suffused with the dangerous thrilling essence of Oscar Wilde’s anti-hero Dorian Grey.

'A Portrait of Dorian Grey'  Eva Herzigova and Larry Scott as Mrs and Mr Dorian Grey. (Photographer Karl Lagerfeld for Steidel, a book published 2004)

This extraordinary new scent is called Romanza, Victorian Narcissus (III-II) and inspired by the decadence and languid toxicity of Oscar Wilde’s controversial prose. The subtitle of Victorian Narcissus celebrates the contradictions of decadence, the perverse Victorian standards of outwardly maintaining moral order at all costs whilst in many dark, swirling, hypocritical cases living lives of darkness, ragged morality and chance. (Editor’s Note: Their stand at Pitti Fragranze 2015 which displayed mannequins was banned for lewdness Oscar Wilde would be proud indeed).

'A Portrait of Dorian Grey' Eva Herzigova and Larry Scott as Mrs and Mr Dorian Grey. (Photographer Karl Lagerfeld for Steidel, a book published 2004)

Romanza is easily discernible as the Italian word for romance. The definition of romance is the emphasis of emotion over sex and libido, it implies a dramatic, literary tone entirely in keeping with the Masque Milano operatic theme already set down by Riccardo and Alessandro. The original working title for the perfume was Innamoramento, a very particular Italian word used to describe the moment you are actually falling in love. I love this concept and onomatopoeic word, but I accept the decision to shift to Romanza, a much more immediate and globally contextual name and one with a delightful, slightly vintage vibe.    

 ‘Behind every exquisite thing that existed there was something tragic.’  Oscar Wilde, The Picture of Dorian Grey.

A Portrait of Dorian Grey Larry Scott as the Immortal and Young Dorian and the Aging Painting that reflects Dorian's Soul. (Photographer Karl Lagerfeld for Steidel, a book published 2004)

There is a danger in reading The Picture of Dorian Grey when you are too young, it is text that infiltrates and poisons the soul but it is oh so hard to shake. I have never quite lost its impact after succumbing at the age of thirteen. Romanza echoes Dorian’s exquisite tragedy with the use of a quite incredible narcissus motif. It is such an odd and alien bloom, bright, unctuous and at the same time sly and disturbingly carnal.  The top part of Romanza is actually rather shocking, sappy, broken stems, crystal efflorescence. Absinthe and orange blossom glitter like Tiffany glass amid the vibrant opening salvo, followed by a really lovely interjection of anisic calm from the angelica. This serves as a calming analgesic over the fusillade opening. The heart is where Romanza enraptures; the hedonist bouquet of plush violet, narcissus and mucky hyacinth. This central woozy heart-piece is both sullied and sweetly ambiguous. You feel transported to a jolting carriage, your senses teased from you by men of impeccable beauty and aromatics. There are words, whispers, kisses and bared skin. The rhythms of the carriage are measured in laughter and the dirty soak of smeared jonquil rising like fire from exposed wrists and throat.

'A Portrait of Dorian Grey' Eva Herzigova (Photographer Karl Lagerfeld for Steidel, a book published 2004)

The powdered nature of violets lends an underlying disturbance to the floral zing and suggestion of mucky coitus that seeps out as the notes drop into flesh. In the later stages the base symphony of civet and tawny ambers suggest a whisper of concealed danger, a pissy golden redolence that romanced me to death. Romanza is perverse; it’s the weird narcotic nature of the bloom, the alluring struggle in the olfaction between toxicity and indolic pornography. For some it will be solace, to others a mirror, to others a weapon of glorious green seduction. The narcissus is a potent force, transforming the skin into a mirror of lickable compulsion. Romanza has a sense of swoon, a lick of enticement, lulling the senses into a barely concealed ambush of abandonment. There is a sensation of piercing violation and relinquishment as the complex build of notes dirty down and the startling will o’ the wisp green/yellow assembly of notes lay down on the skin like weary brothel inmates.

 Disclosure – Sample of Romanza, Victorian Narcissus kindly supplied by Masque Milano

–The Silver Fox, Contributor and editor of The Silver Fox, 

Art Direction: The Silver Fox

New Brand Preview for Masque Milano Romanza

A brand new flacon is in production and Romanza will not be available until December. We are showing you a sneak preview above.

Thanks to the kindness of Alessandro and Riccardo we have a worldwide draw for a sampler of Terralba, Tango, Russian Tea, Luce ed Ombre, Montechristo  + 2 x 2ml  of the new Romanza Victorian Narcissus for a registered reader worldwide (you need to register or your entry is ineligible). To be eligible  please leave a comment with what you enjoyed about TSF’s review of Romanza Victorian Narcissus, if you have read The Picture of Dorian Grey or have a favorite book or quote from Oscar Wilde, where you live and your favorite Masque Milano perfume by 10/24/2015.

We announce the winners on our site and on our Facebook page, so Like Cafleurebon and use our RSS option…or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume