New Fragrance Review: Lubin Paris Upper Ten For Her + Modern Flapper Draw

lubin upper ten

Last year, Lubin Paris Creative Director and President Gilles Thevenin launched a new men’s fragrance called Upper Ten composed by Thomas Fontaine. The fragrance took the conventional tenets of men’s perfumery, namely power, success and virility, and it wove them into a story about America’s coming of age. The “upper ten” was an abbreviation coined by 19th century poet Nathaniel Parker Willis who referred to New York’s elite as the “upper ten thousand.” These men were responsible for leading the country into a modern era and the First Industrial Revolution.

cafleurebon jazz age party

 Two months ago, Lubin debuted Upper Ten for Her, the feminine counterpart of the masculine Upper Ten. The new perfume picks up the story just over a half-century later. Having lived up to its promise as the land of opportunity, many of the immigrants that came to America in search of fortune were now living what would later become known as the American Dream. Upper Ten for Her is set in New York’s Roaring Twenties. This time in history has been referenced many times by contemporary niche perfume houses that are inspired by the decadence and style of the Gilded Age. The 1920s was a playground for people that writer F. Scott Fitzgerald described as “flappers and philosophers.” The human cost of World War I made many Americans re-think their approach to life and a booming economy made enjoying it easy.

colleen moore why be good  famous flapper

Silent Screen Actress Colleen Moore In Why Be Good 1929 was known as Hollywood's most famous flapper

Women of this time were described as forward thinking, revolutionary “flappers” who embodied modernism. The newly ratified Nineteenth Amendment now guaranteed their right to vote. Other law reforms unwittingly encouraged a new culture. Prohibition laws created an exciting underground social scene of speakeasies and jazz clubs. Jazz’s frantic tempo mirrored the buzz of the sprawling city.

Blues by Archibald J. Motley Jr.

Blues by Archibald J. Motley Jr.

Lubin’s description of Upper Ten for Her reads like a scene from The Great Gatsby. Our lead character is a Turkish cigarette-touting flapper who we first meet at Broadway’s famous Ziegfeld Follies. She is sipping bootleg cocktails as she takes in the opulent revue inspired by Paris’ Folies Bergère. Later she ventures uptown to Harlem’s Savoy Ballroom, the birthplace of the Lindy Hop.  Here she dances in what must have been the country’s most liberal social club of that time. At the Savoy people of all classes and ethnicities mingled, united by music and dance.

Roses M. Montedoro, Art Deco postcard 3, 1920s

M. Montedoro, Art Deco postcard 3, 1920s

Upper Ten for Her begins with a mellowed bergamot note that has been cut with elemi resin and aromatic artemesia. One of the interesting aspects of the fragrance is the imaginative Isabella grape accord that fills the top notes. It’s a watery green accord that adds a subtle fruity facet to the Bulgarian rose extract in the heart of the fragrance. Sichuan pepper creates texture and heat; raspberry liqueur adds density and a jammy fruit note that lingers in the background as the fragrance dries down.

Tamara de Lempicka Portrait de Madame Allan Bott. Jazz Age Glamour, 1920s

Tamara de Lempicka Portrait de Madame Allan Bott. 

Upper Ten for Her ends with exotic woods, frankincense, amber and chocolate. Some wearers may like the beginning of the fragrance, which is filled with a clash of angular textures. My favourite part is the dry down once the fragrance settles on skin. Smooth woods veiled in pale rose are laid bare and there is a lovely contrast between incense and chocolate that holds as the fragrance fades into nothing.   

eva-longoria harpers-bazaar flapper

Eva Longoria for Harper's Bazaar Singapore 2009 Photographer Simon Upton

Anyone expecting a nostalgic journey back to the powdery classics, which houses like Chanel, Coty or Caron were creating in the 1920s will be disappointed. Upper Ten for Her is an entirely modern creation that offers some novel accords whilst still maintaining a modicum of being orthodox. In many ways the fragrance transcends the story it has been paired with.

speakeasy

Speakeasy series by Jaymah Mood

Notes like frankincense, Sichuan pepper, chocolate and precious woods take Upper Ten for Her’s wearer away from 1920s Manhattan in search of exotic locales around the world. I suspect this feminine version of Upper Ten will also attract a following of male wearers. The notes are very versatile in relation to gender.

Notes: Grapes, elemi, bergamot, wormwood, raspberry, rose, sichaun pepper, dark chocolate, amber, precious woods, incense

Disclaimer: Review sample provided by Lubin’s Australasian distributor, Agence de Parfum.

Guest Contributor, Clayton Ilolahia and Author of What Men Should Smell Like

Art Direction: Michelyn Camen. I mixed vintage flapper photos and paintings with modern day re-interpretations

Lubin-Upper-Ten-for-Her  cafleurebon

Upper Ten For Woman photo by Clayton, Digitalized by Michelyn

Thanks to Lubin Paris  (check out their new website) we have a worldwide draw for a registered reader of a 50 ml bottle of Upper Ten for Women.  To be eligible please leave a comment with what you enjoyed about Clayton’s review, where you live and your favorite Lubin fragrance.  Who is your favorite flapper?  Draw closes 5/4/2016

We announce the winners only on site and on our Facebook page, so Like Cafleurebon and use our RSS option…or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume

 

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30 comments

  • This fragrance sounds amazing and I love the Gilded Age! Speakeasies, philosophers, erudites, music, and dance….I’m all in! My favorite quote from the article was: “One of the interesting aspects of the fragrance is the imaginative Isabella grape accord that fills the top notes. It’s a watery green accord that adds a subtle fruity facet to the Bulgarian rose extract in the heart of the fragrance.” I want to see how the grape accord, raspberry, rose, dark chocolate, amber, and incense all come together. My favorite Lubin fragrances are Idole and Gin Fizz. I live in the US and thanks for the draw! 🙂

  • You know, Upper 10 for her is the only Lubin fragrance I’ve tried – and I was positively enthralled with it. But now, after reading the review, I want to try it again and again to see if I can pick out all of the wonderful elements highlighted in the review. I’m particularly interested in the Isabella grape and raspberry liqueur notes. Thanks for this awesome draw, I’m in the US!

  • Elizabeth T says:

    Wow, very cool website!!! Possibly the best perfume website I’ve seen. I’ve never tried Lubin so don’t have a favorite… I did love Clayton’s recap of the feelings and history of that time period though. I would love to smell this modern interpretation! Thank you for the lovely draw! I’m in the USA.

  • Love this review and it is spot on… there is nothing powdery or old fashioned about this one…it is modern and definitely unisex. I was able to test both versions, man and woman and the woman and I agree the womans version will probably appeal to everyone. Love the notes also. My favorite Lubin to this day is the original Idole de Lubin EDT. I am in the US and would love the opportunity to be entered into this draw.

  • fazalcheema says:

    this one looks even more interesting the Upper Ten for men. The notes in this one are really intriguing such as chocolate, amber, and frankincense. It is inspired by the gilded age yet it is modern creation. I have not read much about flappers but it seems Colin Moore was the most famous. My favorite Lubin perfume is Idole which I have in both edt and edp formula. thanks a lot for the generous draw. I am in the US

  • ntabassum92 says:

    To be eligible please leave a comment with what you enjoyed about Clayton’s review, where you live and your favorite Lubin fragrance. Who is your favorite flapper?

    I love the description of something that is referring to a bygone era but smells completely modern. After all, even though flappers are vintage now, they were modern then! I am in VA, U.S. I have never tried a Lubin fragrance, but I would love to! And my favorite flapper is Colleen Moore – she is beautiful!

  • Wonderful review. I really enjoyed the whole article, it was so amusing. I have never had a chance to try any of Lubin fragrance. But this perfume sounds fabulous. I very love the notes, sounds so amazing. I would very love to try it.
    I live in Europe. Thank you for the chance.

  • Iuno Feronia says:

    Sounds very interesting – all of the ingredients Sound wonderful, but as Clayton writes: “One of the interesting aspects of the fragrance is the imaginative Isabella grape accord that fills the top notes”. As I love this grape I am really excited to have it in a fragrance.

    I know Lubin’s Gin Fizz.

    Thanks for the draw! I live in the EU, Austria.

  • Clayton wrote a fantastic review as at first it sounded too feminine for a man but he is very clear a guy could wear upper ten for her
    Incense and chocolate sound particularly great together
    I enjoyed the back story of the time of the flappers and especially like how this isn’t powdery or old
    The photo of Eva Longoria was fantastic
    The writing and art really matched well
    But I have a crush on Eva
    Canada reader

  • Oh my goodness I am loving the pictures in this, and the emphasis on flapper-like emphasis on the scent! I can’t say I have a favorite flapper, but I absolutely adore Idole de Lubin. Thanks for the draw! I live in the EU.

  • ringthing says:

    This perfume sounds delectable and the line “The human cost of World War I made many Americans re-think their approach to life and a booming economy made enjoying it easy” really crystallized the appeal of the Roaring 20s. Great review, Clayton. I love the paintings of Tamara de Lempicka. My favorite flapper is probably Josephine Baker for sheer audacity and spirit, favorite Lubin is Idole edt and I’m in the US. Thanks!

  • Enjoyable review! i wasn’t interested in this scent until I read this. My favorite flapper was Lady Rose in Downton Abbey. In the US

  • kouros94 says:

    I would have loved to live in the Flapper’s age! I can just imagine Coco Chanel on the stage singing her famous verse. I have enjoyed a few of Lubin’s line, most notably Idole Edp. I live in the EU and would love to win this draw! Thanks!

  • Thank you for the review, Сlayton. What an interesting combination of notes and I love thes photos! I’ve never tried any Lubin perfumes.
    I live in Italy and Barbara Stanwyck is my favorite flapper .

  • I love the line about Upper Ten transcending the story it’s been paired with. I live in Chicago, my favorite Lubin fragrance is Korrigan, and my favorite flapper is Joan Crawford.

  • I think I would have the exact same reaction to this fragrance as the reviewer. The opening sounds interesting, but the dry down sounds divine! I’ve never tried a Lubin perfume, so would love to sample this one. My favourite flapper is Louise Brookes, of course! I live in Canada, thanks.

  • Diana Devlin says:

    I enjoy the concept surrounding the 1920’s/flappers era. The drydown of this perfume sounds incredible – dark chocolate, amber, precious woods, incense!
    I don’t have much experience with Lubin, so I can’t say what a favorite of mine would be.
    I live in the U.S.

  • Iphigenia says:

    I very much enjoyed reading this lovely review since it took me back to the Golden Age which F.Scott Fitzgerald described in his novel “The Great Gatsby” which is one of my favorite books! What makes me so eager to want to experience this creation is the dry down notes like incense, chocolate, pepper and precious woods that must make it really exceptional and I loved the part of this review where it mentions:
    “Anyone expecting a nostalgic journey back to the powdery classics, which houses like Chanel, Coty or Caron were creating in the 1920s will be disappointed. Upper Ten for Her is an entirely modern creation that offers some novel accords whilst still maintaining a modicum of being orthodox. In many ways the fragrance transcends the story it has been paired with.”
    My favorite flapper writer F.Scott Fitzgerald and actress Louise Brookes.
    I am a registered reader living in EU, Greece.
    Thank you for the lovely review and generous draw!

  • I love the artwork! So stylish. My favorite Lubin is Idole, and I am in the US. Thank you!

  • psebi101 says:

    I like the association with the 1920’s and the artwork. My favorite Lubin is Vetiver Itasca. I’m in the US.

  • pursejunkie says:

    I’d like to thank the reviewer for explaining the “upper ten” moniker for me. My favorite Lubin would probably be Idole. My favorite flapper was surely Joan Crawford, circa the 1928 film “Our Dancing Daughters”
    U.S.

  • MikasMinion says:

    I am really intrigued by the accords listed for Upper Ten for Woman. Usually, I can imagine what a scent will be like from the listed notes (often I’m wrong, but I can at least form an idea), but I’m stumped with this one. I have absolutely no clue whether I will want to wear it or not, but I have a good history of liking Lubins and look forward to trying this one.
    I’m in the US, my favorite Lubin is a tie between Idole EDT and Korrigan, and my favorite flapper was Anita Loos. The new Lubin website is fabulous, BTW. Thank you for the draw.

  • I like the phrase “At the Savoy people of all classes and ethnicities mingled, united by music and dance”. It reminds me of the punk or the techno periods, where people united in pleasure and freedom. It must have been an exciting time, that of the flappers.
    My favourite Lubin is Idole EDT and I live in Belgium, EU. I don’t know if Josephine Baker was a flapper, but if she was, then she’s my favourite!

  • Great review! I really am in love with the opening of this fragrance. It sounds absolutely brilliant. I have not tried a frag from this house, but maybe I will in the future. Colleen Moore is definitely my favorite! I’m in Canada and thanks for the draw.

  • Hikmat Sher Afridi says:

    Interesting review. Thanks for your generosity.
    I like reading “Our lead character is a Turkish cigarette-touting flapper who we first meet at Broadway’s famous Ziegfeld Follies. She is sipping bootleg cocktails as she takes in the opulent revue inspired by Paris’ Folies Bergère. Later she ventures uptown to Harlem’s Savoy Ballroom, the birthplace of the Lindy Hop. Here she dances in what must have been the country’s most liberal social club of that time. At the Savoy people of all classes and ethnicities mingled, united by music and dance.
    My favorite from this house are: Akkad, Upper Ten for Men, Galaad, Idole Eau de Parfum, Nuit de Longchamp and Korrigan
    I live in Peshawar, Pakistan

  • I’m curious to see how this perfume smells on man’s skin.The notes of this are promised to expect something really distinguish.I love chocolate!!!I haven’t yet the opportunity to try any other perfumes of this house.I hope to be the first.I live in Greece.

  • What a review! I enjoyed a lot the pictures about the wonderful Roaring Twenties…The notes as always are appealing and Lubin never disappoinbts me, I have Akkad, Une nuit à Longchamp and Vetiver Itasca and I couldn’t say which one I prefer, perhaps Une nuit because it is made in an old school style.
    I would like to win this classy bottle. I live in EU.

  • echinacea says:

    Thank you for the great review! I love flapper style, I wish I had the courage to wear it sometimes 😉

    My favourite Lubin scent is Idole EDT. Upper Ten seems to be nothing like Idole, but the notes are interesting. I love the combination of elemi and rose.

    I am from the EU.

  • teresa310 says:

    I love jazz, Clara Bow and the fashion of the 20s. Thank you for the lovely review! Don’t know any Lubin fragrances so far, but would love to try this one.

    (EU)

  • My favorite Lubin fragrance is Idole. Upper Ten sounds great. I like the fruity vibe to it. This house always brings out quality, so I know this will be an amazing scent.

    I honestly don’t know much about flappers, so I can’t give you any names.

    I’m a Canadian reader and thank you so much for the draw!