Canadian folk singer Leonard Cohen tells us, “In dreams the truth is learned that all good works are done in the absence of a caress.” The newest fragrance from Humiecki & Graef, Candour, puts the lie to that saying. Candour is all about the human connection a caress brings and the perfume team called Les Christophs (Christoph Hornetz and Christophe Laudamiel) truly create a very good work.
Les Christophs have been the perfumers behind all of the fragrances in the Humiecki & Graef line so far. They are among the most artistic creative teams working in the perfume industry. When I see their names as the perfumers I expect a construction which will push at some of the limits. It was Les Christophs who created the Thierry Mugler coffret celebrating Patrick Susskind’s novel “Perfume” among their other projects like the Green Aria Scent Opera. Their work for Humiecki & Graef has been exceptionally original for a commercial niche line. Their continued survival indicates that there is a market for the artistic.
Les Christophs wanted to create a fragrance of “harmonious contrasts” and this is done with a group of green notes crossed with a contrasting group of milky sweet notes. This makes Candour start off with a herbal opening which deepens in its green quality before the lightly sweet quality of milk washes over this leading to a softly saccharine denouement. By the time this fades away you still seem to feel it on your skin like the memory of a soft touch.
The herbal top notes are lavender and clary sage. Clary sage has seemed to be used a lot more recently and here is feels like a natural partner for the lavender. The arid herbal quality intensifies with violet, orris, and galbanum providing the volume. The galbanum is used liberally here and it is at a level that some are going to find uncomfortable. I like the intensity and what Les Christophs do next is to soothe with a choice of a milk accord flavored with almond, cardamom, and vanilla. This is the soft caress at the heart of Candour. The basenotes remind you of the intersection of sweet and green as sandalwood and muguet provide those qualities as Candour slowly fades away.
Candour has outstanding longevity and average sillage.
As I read back over what I wrote I’m not sure I’m doing the best job of describing how different Candour is. The transition from sharp to sweet is so expertly managed and the choices Les Christophs make are like a fine caress soothing a sting as you turn the other cheek.
Disclosure: This review was based on a preview sample provided by Humiecki & Graef.
–Mark Behnke, Managing Editor
Editor’s Note: Candour will be available in the Fall of 2012 my thanks to Tobias and Sebastian for letting me get an advance peek.