In the excellent new movie “Saving Mr. Banks” about the relationship between the author of “Mary Poppins”, P.L. Travers and Walt Disney there is a funny moment where respect for the source material and a corporate way of doing things run head on. When Mrs. Travers encounters the songwriters for the movie version of “Mary Poppins” the Sherman Brothers they start by singing her the song “Chim-Chim Cheree” and early on they use the made-up word “responstible”. Mrs. Travers reacts with horror at the ability of these American songwriters to adapt the language for their own needs. She promptly requests them to “un-make it up” which cause the Sherman Brothers to hide the sheet music for “Supercalifragilisticexpialidocious”. In perfume circles the same concern of a corporate relationship with a great perfume house can be imagined with LVMH and Guerlain.

While Guerlain has flourished under LVMH’s guidance the traditionalists, The Travers camp as it were, probably bristle every time a new flanker of Shalimar shows up. They probably feel like current in-house perfumer Thierry Wasser is, like the Sherman Brothers, making it up and want him to un-make it up. While I understand the sentiment behind the “please leave our classics alone” there are times when M. Wasser has shown the respect for the classic and created something different but worthy of the Shalimar name. The most recent limited edition, I believe, is one of those.

The 2013 release is called Guerlain Shalimar Ode a la Vanille sur la Route du Mexique, and that sure seems like a made-up name but the reality of the fragrance is far from frivolous. M. Wasser takes the Shalimar foundation and adds to it. The two changes are the source of the vanilla used and in the addition of a caramel and chocolate accord in the base. This turns Shalimar into something like a very plush gourmand without ever seeming like it is not Shalimar.

Thierry Wasser

The opening of Mexique is the same as every Shalimar opening you have ever experienced as bergamot and lemon release a bright fusillade. That tells you that this is Shalimar you are wearing. Shortly after that is the first change as the traditional rose and jasmine is joined by an earlier and more prominent vanilla note. Vanilla has always been in Shalimar but in Mexique the new source of the raw material moves it up the pyramid so it becomes more noticeable at an earlier stage. The vanilla persists as the traditional base of orris, tonka, and incense make you think that Mexique will end on a faithful Shalimar accord. Then from underneath the familiar bubbles up a rich caramel and chocolate accord which transforms the traditional into the extraordinary. Along with the vanilla and tonka the last phase turns decidedly and delightfully gourmand.

Guerlain Shalimar Ode a la Vanille sur la Route du Mexique has all-day longevity and above average sillage.

For the Travers amongst you this version of Shalimar will be as much a travesty as anything else that has shared that name over the last few years. For those who are willing to let tradition be updated Mexique is a good example of how it can be modernized without losing its soul. I am definitely not a Travers when it comes to Mexique I think M. Wasser created something worthy of having Shalimar as part of its name.

Disclosure: This review is based on a bottle of Guerlain Shalimar Ode a la Vanille sur la Route du Mexique I purchased.

–Mark Behnke, Managing Editor

Editor’s Note: If you want to see the clip from “Saving Mr. Banks” I described above the link is here.