New Fragrance Review: DSH Perfumes Brilliant Collection (Deco Diamond, Jacinthe de Sapphir, Rubis Rose and Fumee d’Or) + Bling in The New Year

denver art musuem brilliant  cartier exhibit and dawn spencer hurwitz of dsh perfumes cafleurebon

Dawn Spencer Hurwitz  has created four new fragrances in collaboration with Brilliant: Cartier in the 20th Century at the Denver Art Museum Exhibit

Jewelry and scent have gone together since antiquity. From the first clay vessel worn around the neck of the ancients to a dab of Van Cleef & Arpels First created in 1976 by Jean-Claude Ellena for ladies who lunch,  fragrance has been and is the ultimate accessory.  Colorado perfumer and indie icon, Dawn Spencer Hurwitz has collaborated once again with the Denver Art Museum to interpret Brilliant: Cartier in the 20th Century (November 16 , 2014–March 15, 2015).

The collection consists of three gem inspired scents and one inspired by the Cartier Atelier in Paris. The perfumes themselves are much like gemstones –multi-faceted, complex and each representing the color and essence of the famous Cartier jewels on exhibit.  These are not re-creations, but era-specific adornments which recall the haute-couture offerings of the Cartier House. All are scented imaginings of the style, clarity and cut which make these Cartier jewels as unforgettable as the women who wore them.

cartier gold vintage paris

Photo: Cartier Paris Goldsmith at work

While all four perfumes in the collection are truly brilliant, Fumee d'Or (Golden Smoke)  glows the brightest for me, a smoky bellow of molten gold.  Evoking a Parisian goldsmith’s studio, disparate notes bring to mind both the torch and master craftsmanship which ultimately culminate in over a hundred years of iconic Cartier jewelry. The metalic aldehyde and birch opening are the soul of the smithery, smoke in the air, the indolic sweet and sweat provided by civet and very non-flowery florals.  Civet  provides a deep gilded hue to this beautiful perfume. Fumee d'Or could easily be worn by both men and women who like their fragrances to smolder with high voltage sensuality. Notes: birch tar, metallic aldehydes, jasmine, neroli, and civet.

queen marie of romania sapphire

Queen Marie of Romania wearing her legendary Cartier Sapphire Pendant

Jacinthe de Sapphir  is an olfactory feat which brings the scent of  true hyacinth to life. Dawn recreates in liquid form the legendary sapphire worn by Queen Marie of Romania.  There are very few blue flowers in the natural world, so Dawn chose hyacinth as the linchpin floral in order to capture the depth and hue of the gem.  Jacinthe de Sapphir opens with powder and petal, and a photorealistic hyacinth that literally blooms as I inhale.  Rich and textured balsams meld with earthy vetiver at the dry down; these are notes Dawn used to reinforce the connection between the jewel's origins, unearthed by miners and turned into the polished centerpiece of the necklace. Notes: violet leaf, galbanum, bergamot, rose de mai, narcissus, tuberose, tolu and peru balsams, vetiver, styrax, and civet.

 

wallis  simposn wearing cartier flamingo brooch

Wallis Simpson and her Cartier Flamingo Brooch

If you are someone who loves vintage power perfumes, Deco Diamond is the fragrance that will draw you in and not let go.   Inspired by Wallis Simpson, the Duchess of Windsor’s Cartier Flamingo brooch, it is a bold interpretation of a dazzling diamond.  Deco burns with white hot brilliance and explodes with aldehydes and galbanum adding metallic amd sharp facets that scratch you with perfectly manicured nails. This is a BIG perfume for women who command attention just by entering a room, very much like the Duchess herself. Notes: neroli, peach, galbanum, aldehydes, jasmine sambac, gardenia, tuberose, honeysuckle absolute, oakmoss, sandalwood, civet, and ambergris.

elizabeth taylor  cartier rubies michael todd

Elizabeth Taylor wearing Cartier ruby and diamond necklace and earrings presented to her by Michael Todd on their Honeymoon in 1957

Elizabeth Taylor’s famous Cartier ruby suite of earrings,  presented to her by her beloved third husband Michael Todd in 1957 is captured perfectly by the velveteen Rubis Rose. Rasperry is a descriptor in gemology of the color of a ruby and accordingly opens the scent on a fruity note. If you love your roses rich, deep and glamorous, pin Rubis Rose to your lapel. Notes: raspberry, pink pepper, red rose accord, ambergris, frankincense, myrrh, guaiacwood, and oakmoss.

It has been said that Dawn does her best work in collaboration with the Denver Art  Museum and this collection is another example of their creative synergy.  “How far would you go for love?” goes the famous Cartier quote.  I have only had to go as far as Dawn Spencer Hurwitz and Brilliant to fall in love with a perfume collection.

-Einsof, Natural Perfume Editor and West Coast Contributor (with contributions from Michelyn Camen, Editor in Chief)

Disclosure: We received samples from DSH Perfumes

Editor’s Note: Brilliant is Dawn’s seventh  collaboration  with The Denver Museum which includes  King Tut (2010),  the Yves St. Laurent retrospective (2012 and Passport to Paris (2013).

Thanks to Dawn Spencer Hurwitz we have a worldwide draw for either a sample set of Rubis Rose, Deco Diamond, Jacinthe de Sapphir and Fumee D’Or OR a dram mini flask of either of the four. To be eligible, please leave a comment with what you would hope to win, which appeals to you the most, where you live and if you have a favorite DSH Perfume. Draw closes 1/11/2015.

We announce the winners only on site and on our Facebook page, so Like Cafleurebon and use our RSS option…or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume.

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39 comments

  • Joan Mansbach says:

    When I pass the plant shop in spring and I am immediately lured by the wonderfully fragrant hyacinth, my passion for rose is shaken to the core. I can only imagine the lively memorable scent masterfully captured in Jacinthe de Sapphir…and if I am lucky I won’t have to imagine it…I’ll get to wear it. I’m in the U.S. Thanks for this offering!

  • Oh my…myrrh, frankincense, and all of those notes creating a dark rose sound breathtaking!! I hVent tried any of her scents yet so I cant lust a favorite but have had her on my sights for awhile. This is so exciting! Im in the US. Thank you so much for the draw!

  • Oops! I got so ahead of myself I didn’t say the name of the scent I would choose-Rubis Rose!

  • Elizabeth T. says:

    Rubis Rose sounds like the gem for me. I’d choose a dram of it! I don’t yet have a favorite DSH perfume, but this could be the one… I’m in the US, thank you!

  • I love rose perfumes, so I would choose the Rubis Rose. I have not yet tried any perfumes from DSH, and I am in the US.

  • My current favorite DSH perfume is White Lilac, but I usually wear that in spring/summer. I love both jewels and perfume and wish I were in the Denver area to see the Cartier exhibit!
    My choice is a dram flask of Rubis Rose. I am in the US. Thanks for the draw!

  • I would love to try the sample set. Jacinthe De Sapphire sounds most interesting to me as I don’t know how hyacinth smell like. I have not tried DSH perfumes so I dont know which would be my favourite one. I am from Malaysia. thanks!

  • I would LOVE to win Jacinthe De Sapphire. I have smelled it and it phenomenol. DSH continually surprises me by coming up with something new, even after so many creations. I have a small shoebox full of only DSH samples! Too many favorites to name, but I love this whole collection. Just like I loved the YSL collection a couple of years ago. USA

  • Fumee d’Or sounds interesting. The jasmine, metallic aldehydes and civet. Ive never heard of metallic aldehydes are they similar the ones in Chanel N°5 with an iris nuance? Translating famous jewelry into beautiful perfumes takes a skilled perfumer and DSH does it extremely well. I cannot wait to smell all ofvthese eventually. If i win the draw I would love a mini flask of Fumee d’Or. Im in the US. Thanks for the draw.

  • My beloved Aunt was very fond of diamonds. She would be disappointed if I picked anything but Deco Diamond. 🙂 (She was also fond of Elizabeth Taylor and her jewelry.)

    I am in the U.S.

  • Thank you so much Michelyn and Einsof for this incredible review of the Brilliant Collection for DAM! I loved every minute of reading this; it was as wild a ride as creating these fragrant gems. As always it’s an immense pleasure to be here at CaFleureBon! <3

  • It’s inexplicable maybe, but I’m always attracted to smoky scents, so “Fumée d’Or” appeals the most to me. And moreover, if it evokes a Parisian goldsmith’s studio… Yay! 😉
    I’d like to win the samples set, the only way to discover all these new beauties…
    My DSH Perfume favorite (in my All Time Top 5 Fragrances!) is “Dirty Rose” – the most perfect leather-rose combo ever !!
    I’m in the EU… Thank you for the draw!

  • Being a Capricorn Sapphires are my guilty pleasure. I would love to smell Jacinthe de Sapphire.
    I have a quasi devotion towards Celadon Green – the most peaceful scent I have ever smelled.
    I live in France.
    Thank you and thank you Dawn for your brilliant creativity

  • I love gold and gemstones. So perfume inspired of these beautiful and expensive things, must be great. I would like the ample set.
    I live in Europe.

  • I do not own any DSH scents as of yet, but I love a powdery scent, so I would choose Deco Diamond. I love the photos of the exquisite jewelry! I live in the US. Thanks!

  • Deco Diamond appeals to me the most and I would love to win the sample set and experience all of them.
    I have not experienced any DSH perfume up till now.
    I live in EU. Thanks for the draw

  • Civet, birch and ‘non-flowery florals’ make Fumee d’Or the most appealing but i would love to try all of them so choose a sample set.
    i haven’t had an opportunity to experience any of DSH perfumes yet.
    i am in the EU.

  • What a great concept. Precious jewels and gorgeous scents! DSH has interested me for a while now, but is unavailable here.
    I would love to try Fumee D’Or and I live in Australia.

  • I love DSH. Mahjoun os probably my favorite, but it would be hard to choose. I would opt for the sample set and Rubis Rose appeals to me most. I’m in the US.

  • I’d go for the Rubis Rose. I’ve been wanting to try this one for a while! No favorite DSH scents yet; in time I’m sure I will have one. In the US – cheers!

  • The civet appeals to me the most. So I’d love to win the Fumee d’Or please. 🙂 I don’t own any DSH perfumes. USA

  • thegoddessrena says:

    I’d like the sample set since I can’t decide between Deco Diamonds and Jacinthe de Sapphir. I am in the US. My favorite DSH scent is Oeillets Rouges although I haven’t tried many

  • hotlanta linda says:

    A sample set is on the way 🙂 but another set or a mini bottle of Jacinthe de Sapphir is my best guess. White Lilac is my fave DSH scent by a slim!! margin – all are GOOD!! Thank you for the article 🙂 and draw. We are rockin` in the USA 🙂

  • Donna Spiegel says:

    What a fantastic concept and what wonderful inspiration Dawn must have gotten for these new fragrances. Wow! I currently don’t have any DSH in my collection.. For me, I am definitely drawn to Deco Diamond. While I love many different facets of fragrance, I do love me a powerhouse perfume, and definitely one that makes a statement. So this would be my choice, if I was the lucky winner. 🙂 mmmm, can almost smell it now.
    thanks!!! I’m in the US

  • breathesgelatin says:

    I’m in the US and thank you for the draw!

    These all sound quite amazing. I think I’d like to try the sample set. I think I’m most fascinated by Jacinthe de Sapphir. I love DSH as a house, my two favorites from her are Oeillets Rouge and Vert pour Madame, both of which I own!

  • I am definitely a DSH fan. I currently have both Quinacridone Violet and Menthe Moderne in my collection.

    The description of Jacinthe de Sapphir has my interest piqued, but I confess I’d love to sample them all, so the sample set would be my choice.

    I am in the US.

  • The perfume that appeals to me the most from this review is Jacinthe de Sapphir and I would love to have the sampler set.
    I live in EU and I my favorite DSH perfume is Dirty Rose.

  • Fazal Cheema says:

    Fumee D’Or may appeal to me the most due to its smoky elements. I really enjoy well done smoky creations. My preference would be the sample set so that I can experience all four of them. Thanks for the lovely draw. I am in the US

  • Love everything I have tried from Dawn. Vert pour Madames is owned by a friend who let me have a try recently and I loved it. Love to get my little paws on more. Jack the de sapphir would be the one I’d love to try from this array. Enticing descriptions! Thank you for the review and the draw.

  • Jacint de Sapphir piqued my interest, the hyacint here sounds very good. I would like to win the whole sample set though. I have not yet tried any DSH perfumes. I am in the EU. Thanks for the draw!

  • Fumee d’Or is the most apealing to me because I like aldehyde and smoky scents and if there is also civet in it, I must try this one. I would try the samples set because I want to discover the others . They sound really interesting. I don’t know much DSH perfumes but I tried Le Smoking with tobacco, leatHER…and Rose and other flowers dancing in it and I liked it a lot. I,m in EU. Thanks!

  • I think it would be really hard to pick only one perfume from DSP with the lovely descriptions by Einsof. Rubis Rose intrigues me the most because I am a Rose lover but the sample set sounds great. I then could try each one.
    Bab, USA.

  • As a beader and jewellery maker (though not one with a parisian goldsmith workshop), the Fumée d’Or really caught my eye. The idea of capturing not just the essence of jewels in scents, but the place and process that they’re created in is intriguing. I like the others too, especially Rubis Rose as I can’t be without rose scents.
    While I have several DSH perfumes on my list of scents to try, I haven’t yet gotten my hands on any. So I’m keeping my fingers crossed now.
    I’m in the EU and would love a chance to win the sample set.

  • Cynthia Richardson says:

    I hope to win the sample set; however, Fumee d’Or appeals to me the most because Golden Smoke sounds very seductive. I live in the US and have not yet had the pleasure of wearing a DSH Perfume.

  • I would love to win the sample set.
    The Jacinthe de Saffhir sounds wonderful, but I am sure they all have their charms.
    My favorite DSH is Celadon.
    I live in the U.S.
    Thanks.

  • Rubis Rose will surely win me over, because I love raspberries, and roses, and their marriage in a perfume bottle. But I am most curious about Fumee d’Or and its tar and civet notes.
    I haven’t tried anything from DSH perfumes, and I wish I win a sample set of all the fragrances from the Brilliant collection.
    I am in Bulgaria (EU), and I thank you for the chance to try American natural perfumery.

  • I would love to win the mini flask of Fumee d’Or! The smokiness holds tremendous appeal for me. Thanks so much, I’m in the US. My fave DSH is December, which I like to wear (surprise) around the holidays. It got the most wear for me this year!