February 26, 2015
New Fragrance Review: Brooklyn Euphorium Cilice + The Path to Salvation and Damnation Draw
Cilice Reveal photo from Brooklyn Euphorium
Part of being human is walking the edge between what we want in this world and what we believe is the right and proper way to live. We live, we grow, and scars form from leaning against the hidden steel slicing between temptation and salvation, empathy and raw need. Part of enjoying perfume is how certain scents drive this point home instantly and escort you right to the 40-story rooftop drop of your darkest fantasies.
Brooklyn Euphorium’s Cilice is without question the most blatant and seductive fragrance to happen upon when you’re hovering between entering the nunnery or a nightclub. You have to decide exactly what kind of person you are inside with every sniff, because Cilice’s composition contains all the sweetness, contemplation and filthy secrets we all carry within ourselves. The imagery that arises out of its depths – hot black leather drenched in golden honey, or a blackened altar in the deep woods. Beeswax and castoreum, frankincense and cloves all combine into a bestial but forgiving scent.
photo Stephen Dirkes: Brooklyn Euphorium (Greenpoint)
Brooklyn Euphorium’s description of their methodology in perfume-making is every bit as arcane and curious as what Cilice presents on the skin. The story behind the line seems to be a wild and possibly made-up tale of a Victorian Perfumer Etienne Chevreuil and his salon of 19th century spiritualists (I could find no mention on Google of any of their names), armed with arcane distillation methods (known as the “Komodo Process”) that the perfumers at Euphorium have chosen to follow as their olfactory muses.
Cilice Wound photo from Brooklyn Euphorium
But it doesn’t matter – what matters is Cilice itself. Brooklyn Euphorium’s marketing copy could boldly announce that their scents sprung wholly from Pan’s pointed head, and it wouldn’t change the fact that this fragrance will outwit every prudent impulse your mother taught you. Cilice is the embodiment of gorgeous, scented evil, that sly, “c’mon – no one’s gonna know….” part of us that constantly distracts us from doing the right thing.
Aleister Crowley British Occultist (1875-1947)
The path to damnation/salvation begins with a huge dollop of honey backed by resins and frankincense. There’s also a fine mist of elemi clinging to the opening, which lends a mossy edge to the honeyed sweetness. This is the best part of wearing Cilice – throughout its entire evolution, you are surprised by sweet, cool, or mossy notes that are welcoming and open, but then a blast of hormonal castoreum or austere incense. The power is equal to the lurid insinuation Cilice keeps dripping into your ear – this fragrance goes on for hours, with just enough sillage to make the person next to you hypnotized as well.
Kätzchen, 1901 by Stephanie Ludwig
I was completely mesmerized by this fragrance. The individual notes all stood out and made definite impressions, and I loved the intimacy that developed as they all make their presence known. There’s a delicious, subtle confrontation hidden in this scent that dares you to act on what you’re feeling when it arises. Cilice is meant to symbolize ascension, holy ascension at that, but the irony is that the impulses it brings on could deadbolt the doors on a monastery for a century. But you’re the only one who knows what your limits are – and Cilice provides a very smooth-talking and sinful option for those willing to throw off their vows and be tempted.
Notes: Benzoin, Labdanum, Frankincense, Elemi, Leather, Beeswax, Angelica, Cistus, Clove, Honey, Papyrus, Cloister Liquor, Ambergris, Oud, Cedar, Coumarin, Birch Tar, Castoreum
Steve Johnson, Editor
Disclosure: my sample was provided by Twisted Lily Perfumerie in Brooklyn
Thanks to Twisted Lily we have three samples of Brooklyn Euphorium Cilice for three USA readers. To be eligible please leave a comment with what appeals to you about Cilice and the tale behind Brooklyn Euphorium. Draw closes March 1, 2015
We announce the winners only on site and on our Facebook page, so Like Cafleurebon and use our RSS option…or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume
Cilice is clearly inspired by the past and their fragrances may be closer to classic creations than they may be to current tastes…I am interested in Brooklyn Emporium works because they seem to focus on animalic elements..thanks for the draw. i am in the US
Swoon.
Nunnery to nightclub.
Yes-yes-yes. Definitely one of the continuums of my existence. Smokey memories of incense hypnotically dispersed from a swinging, clanging censer in Greek Orthodox services to the early dawn return from afterhour night haunts in the NYC 80’s. The eternal return of earth-tone scents – beeswax, honey, clove, cedar, frankincense, tar… – a kind of time travel beyond the maddening crowd while ever in it; and passion for, in and about sense, senses, sensemaking – in all their forms and fashionings. Cilice, a crazy promise.
yes, please.
With a review like that who wouldn’t be tempted try this? As far as my taste goes an absolute great list of notes. The Brooklyn Euphorium histroy goes back to 1860, I like that. USA
Benzoin, labdanum…magic words to me. Their inclusion guarantees this one will speak to me in some way. Your review makes me want to rush out and buy it. And I think Tracy Ann up above me should get a sample for her very eloquent comment!
Yowza. Everything about this makes me swoon. Naughty, nice? Yes please. Thanks for the draw, I live in the U.S.
Ascension…..oh, we need that…desperately. Honey, castoreum and cloister liquor. It sounds magical…I am striving for the magic…Thank you for the opportunity.
I totally agree with Cynthia about Tracy Ann’s comments! She said it all for me! Delicious review Steve! Thanks, I live in the US.
I love elemi-ambers! I’ve hearda bit about this line but there’s not a whole lot of information on it out there. Good to see CFB covering it. I’m in the US.
Salvation, gotta have that. 🙂 The promise of a complex evolution has me wanting this one. Brooklyn Euphorium promises parfum sourced from the finest rare and exotic oils, tinctures and absolutes. U.S.A.
The most tempting part is the composition. Well, and the review that makes it sound unique. I am in US.
“Cilice is meant to symbolize ascension, holy ascension at that, but the irony is that the impulses it brings on could deadbolt the doors on a monastery for a century”, enough said. I’m in the US and can’t wait to get in over my head!
that composition would get my attention even without video clips and prose — but the prose, really, is exquisite. the first 2 sentences of this piece are among the favorite pieces of language i’ve come across in a while. bravo, steve (and i quote): >>Part of being human is walking the edge between what we want in this world and what we believe is the right and proper way to live. We live, we grow, and scars form from leaning against the hidden steel slicing between temptation and salvation, empathy and raw need.<<
ah, marvelous.
if the perfume is anything like that, it will be sublime.
(and i'm in the u.s.)
The story and notes appeal to me – plus the story of Cilice sounds more interesting than I will ever be and thus perhaps I will be inspired.
The description of the fragrance sounds so darkly inviting. Labdanum and frankincense — oh, that’s for me!
The Brooklyn Euphorium was heretofore unknown to me, and I would love to try Cilice.
You had me at honey and black leather. I would love to try Cilice!
they sound like dense fragrances….similar to classic vintage perfumes! that is my jam! thank you for this opportunity!
Loved the idea of a story told by scent and scent alone. I now know of her Ecstasy of Devotion. I seriously don’t know how I could not love this scent if it “dares me to act on what I’m feeling.” Love where the spontaneity could lead. Great review Steve, I’m torn between redemption and temptation… 🙂
I love this dark, resinous composition. The story itself is very alluring, and I’m very interested in visiting sometime. Thank you for this chance! I am in the US.
It sounds dreamy delicious!
The “sweet, cool, or mossy notes that are welcoming and open, but then a blast of hormonal castoreum or austere incense” of Cilice appeal to me. The tale behind Brooklyn Euphorium and its reimagination of Victorian era perfumery is fascinating.
I think what I like the most is that it sounds naughty. I’m reading this now listening to Robert Plant singing a really sexy sing. Yeah I know which side I am lol!!! Id love to give this a whirl. I’m in the U.S. thanks.