When Italians refer to someone as an “amica per la pelle” they mean “friends for the skin”- aka bosom buddies, friends for life.
This is an excellent place to start!
Bottega Veneta– the prominent house of exquisitely handmade leather goods- has finally launched its first foray into The Fragrant World.
I think it was worth the wait.
Bottega Veneta translates as Venetian Atelier.
This is precisely how the firm began in Vicenza in 1966, by creating artisanal pelleterie.
Their credo pleases me: When your own initials are enough.
That’s a gorgeous thought, and the eponymous perfume illustrates this brilliantly, from start to finish- Murano bottle included.
Besides the credo, Bottega Veneta created a technique of weaving fine supple leathers known as intrecciato- which requires two people using opposing forces to produce the intricate pattern which is their distinctive hallmark.
This recurring woven design appears in so many of their goods: gold chains and other fine jewelry, Murano glassware, hand-painted china, bags, gloves, shoes, wallets, luggage, fashion, even sunglasses…
Apparently, intrecciato is an integral theme in the creation of their fragrance, according to Carole Werner of Coty, with whom I spoke earlier this week
Carole likened this interweaving of the notes in BV to the same artistry inherent in their leather goods.
The plot thickens.
Who would be entrusted with the task of creating the iconic fragrance?
Coty Prestige chose Michel Almairac of Robertet as the nose behind BV.
His roster of beloved perfumes is awe-inducing, I can’t name them all, but here is a smattering of those we adore:
L’Artisan Parfumeur Voleur de Roses
Chopard Casmir
Chloe [re-issue]
Bond No. 9’s: West Side, Scent of Peace, Bryant Park, Coney Island, Fire Island, Sak’s Fifth Avenue for Him and Her
Gres Cabaret
Gucci : Rush, Rush 2, Gucci Pour Homme, Eau de Gucci
Burberry Women
Rochas Lumière
Paloma Picasso Minotaure
Ghost
Dunhill
Shiseido Zen for Women
Le Labo Ambrette 9
Bottega Veneta is characterized as a leathery floral chypre; I’d add that it possesses subtle Oriental undertones.
Somehow, the description above feels like a carapace, secreting all the mystery beneath.
The notes listed seem incomplete, a mere skeletal suggestion.
Notes:
Italian bergamot, Brazilian pink pepper
Indian jasmine sambac
Oak moss, patchouli, Indian patchouli
That’s it.
So WHY do we smell orris? Really fine, softest silvery orris, all buttery and silvery at once?
The drydown becomes a tenaciously discreet creamy, woody iris, but it’s not listed.
Bergamot and pink pepper are spirited, and open up the scented conversation; jasmine sambac is such a classic heart, generously warm and fully floral.
Some sites list the delicate plum note that I sniffed out gleefully- blossom, not fruit.
Oak moss and patchouli provide a lavish, deep base, steeped in intrigue.
The leather effect is likely the pairing of fine oak moss [if it’s a synth, it’s a lovely choice here] and various forms of patchouli; it feels like whispery suede.
There is nothing ham-fisted about BV– refined; streamlined sensuality is its maxim.
BV is all elegant comfort, the way Grace Kelly appeared in her later years.
Does that mean that it’s gained a few pounds and is frumpy? Loves its garden and paints flowers?
Mumsy?
Far from it.
This is a thoroughly contemporary fragrance which manages to bridge aesthetics with warmth.
It is a featherweight cashmere stole in muted but saturated hues- timeless, magnificent, versatile.
It can be worn with jeans or jodhpurs [if you’re of the horsey set], a svelte shantung sheath or a ballgown- think Givenchy or Balenciaga.
You can wear it if you’re in healthcare – or if you volunteer for tony charities.
Bottega Veneta is no snob, though- it’s good for everyone.
The edp goes for $95-$130, the shower gel is $40, body lotion is $50, the luxe body cream is more- $95.
The bad news: There’s PERFUME. And it’s only sold in the boutiques- in limited amounts-
And it’s $395.
In Murano glass.
Ah, me.
I have four carded samples to give away to four commenters. To be eligible leave a comment and tell us about your ‘friends for life" or your feelings on the brand Botegga Veneta- any way you view it 😉 Draw closes September 16, 2011.
–Ida Meister, Senior Editor