NEW FRAGRANCE REVIEW- Blood Concept O A B AB: + True Blood Draw

There are times in any passion I hold where I have to overcome my snap judgments on things. It was day one of Esxence 2011 in Milan and I was doing my first walkthrough of the exhibitors and my eyes light on a display with the name “Blood Concept”. I’m pretty sure my eyes couldn’t have rolled back further in my head as I thought, “Great that’s all we need Twilight perfume.” I was determined to ignore them for the next three days but that didn’t last for 24 hours, thankfully. As part of the first evening in Milan I was invited to a black tie dinner and found myself in conversation with Michael Edwards during pre-dinner champagne. It was a thrill for me to talk with him about all things fragrance and then I asked him, “what was the most interesting thing he smelled that day?” His reply was Blood Concept. If my eyeballs were rolling earlier my jaw was now on the ground. Mr. Edwards would go on to say these guys really seemed to know what they were doing and were worth checking out. I did just that the next morning and got to experience one of the highlights of Esxence 2011 for me. Alas everything was so new I was unable to walk away with a sample and so the memory would have to suffice, for a while.

Flash forward to mid-August 2011 and the Elements Showcase in New York City. The opening event was a Bloody Mary premiere party for Blood Concept. It was my first stop and this time they had samples for me. Owners Antonio Zuddas and Giovanni Castelli want to create not only a fragrance but, according to press materials, a true multimedia effort surrounding Blood Concept. If the fragrance is any judge of things the entire effort should be a huge success.

The fragrances were each named after a blood type O, A, B, AB and each is meant to represent a type of evolution of mankind. O represents our primitive ancestors, hunter gatherers in animal skins. A is the shift to an agrarian society. B is the melting pot of cultures that travel has opened up.  AB is the modern metropolitan version of humanity always looking to the future. Tying all of these fragrances together is blood in the form of a metallic note. One of the reasons I like this collection so much is it brings to life the first line of one of my favorite authors John D. MacDonald. In his book “A Deadly Shade of Gold” the first paragraph of the book describes the smell of blood like this:

“A smear of fresh blood has a metallic smell. It smells like freshly sheared copper. It is a clean and impersonal smell, quite astonishing the first time you smell it.”

I agree with that sentiment because Blood Concept has been quite astonishing to smell.

O

Type O is the animalic whiff of the cave after a successful hunt. The smell of animal skins in a raw leather accord is the dominant player throughout the development of O. Thyme, cypress, and cedar adds depth and definition to the leather. It is in the later stages when the metallic blood accord arises that O truly feels like the hunter has been turned loose. It reminds us that our hunting instinct is never too far away. In Milan this was my favorite of the four.

A

Type A is the smell of green growing things. There is a green galbanum-like note on my skin over turned earth and it is surrounded by herbal notes of tomato leaf and basil combined with anise. The metallic note shows up at the end again and it blends very nicely into what has come before. Type A is the sweat of the farmer toiling in the fields and the whiff of blood put into every turn of the plow.

B

Type B is the most accessible of these four fragrances and that is because there are a number of easy- to-wear notes throughout its development. Apple and cherry open things up with the more tart natures of both of these fruits predominating over their more natural sweetness. A rich black tea accord carries the heart of Type B before patchouli grounds the base with the blood accord present. This was the one which I found most revealing upon getting to wear it for a couple of days. On the strip the different levels of this fragrance are not as obvious as they were on my skin. The ride from fruit to black tea to patchouli might be obvious but once it starts to bleed it is something quite exceptional.

AB

Type AB is going to be the one that will be most easily dismissed by most who try these fragrances. It is the least approachable of the Blood Concept fragrances but I found that once I made the effort I was rewarded with something quite amazingly different in a fragrance. Type AB is all about the cold sharp angles of a modern metropolis. The opening is a mind numbing slug of aldehydes, sharp as glass. A mineral note called slate in the note list is also present. The heart is the smell of wet concrete after a rain. The base is cedar and the blood accord.

Grafitti Artist and painter Molly Brill

 

AB is all about the city dweller with their shields up daring someone to get close using fragrance as another barrier to prevent contact. Unfortunately for me AB is the kind of weird juxtaposition of quirky notes that appeals to me and as I walk the urban landscape I don’t feel the need to share.

 

All four Blood Concept fragrances had overnight longevity on me and average sillage.

After having had ten days to wear these fragrances multiple times I have confirmed my opinion from Esxence that Blood Concept is easily the best and most coherently connected collection I have experienced in a long time. The imagination and concept behind these fragrances are prominently on display and each holds joys. I will wear all of them throughout the year but I expect my bottles of O and AB will run out first. This makes me think I might be a caveman dressed in a business suit, like the Geico spokesperson.

Disclosure: This review was based on 10mL samples provided by Intertrade Europe  

Thanks to the Blood Concept team we have thirty compatibility kits to give away. The compatibility kits are a set of four scratch and sniff cards which have each of the fragrances on them. To be eligible leave a comment letting us know which blood type you think you might be and/or any part of this review that you found interesting. Draw closes on August 28, 2011.

Mark Behnke, Managing Editor

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63 comments

  • This concept is utterly compelling but that the same time, kinda, well, scary. Mark’s way of expressing each scent, however, makes them all seem surprisingly approachable, in my mind. I suspect that I would be the “o” type scent wise from the descriptions, even though I am not a type O, literally. I found the fact that the collection was so coherent, which is at times a rarity, especially interesting. I really enjoyed this peak at an avant garde, artistic concept, whether I would like the actual perfumes or not. Thank you, Mark Behnke! Please enter me in the draw as I’d love these for my little perfume museum. 🙂

  • another O here.
    i think.
    or else: B (love that patchouli.)

    i found the whole review interesting.
    in fact, i had dismissed these before (read about them on another dite months ago) — but will now reconsider.

    hh

    p.s. mark, next time you rub elbows with michael edwards, ask him what happened to that “american feminine fragrances” book he told me (via an e-mail exchange) he was writing about 10 years ago? it’s about time…

  • I have type A blood, and I do love galbanum, but AB definitely sounds like the most innovative fragrance in this challenging line, so, perhaps perversely, it’s the one I’d most like to try!

  • I have A and of course I read anxiously your opinion on A. It seems that from the notes listed is something I would enjoy and reading that analogy with the farmer definitely put my curiosity on fire.

  • I have A and for that type is said to prefer vegetables to meat. I like almost all vegetables and don’t have a need to eat meat. And that composition in A type is unconventional and I would certainly love to try if it suits me. All the others too of course.

  • My Sis is having a baby and the nurses told her about her blood type O-, mine is AB it got us thinking about what makes us who we are. This sounds quite interesting. I love that the collection is so connected.

  • Honestly, I was ready to dismiss this but now I’m very interested.
    My blood type is A (I know as I semi-regularly donate blood) and the perfume A sounds the best to me (I love green smellsm of growing things).
    O sounds interesting too. 🙂

  • The day I have come to know of this line, it has grown my curiosity to try them all. I belong to the group B and this is the one that has caught my interest the most.

  • I am type O Blood type ab personality but the b fragrance sounds more in sync to my fruity floral perfumes
    If Mark didnt rave about this I would be skeptical but between Mark and Mr Edwards I must admit I am intrigued
    Thanks Mark for taking a very serious look at what could have been a line folks dismissed as gimmicky

  • I’m type A and female, but I’m drawn to the animalistic interpretation from the review of Type O. Maybe it’s then primeval overtones but the caveman association is calling me…..

  • I’m type AB, I find the descriptions of both AB and O very appealing, and can’t wait to try this perfume.

  • What I found interesting is that the perfumer’s rendition of each blood type as exemplified by the notes very much ties in to the development of each blood type over the course of history (ie:type O as the oldest type representing hunters/meat eaters, type A representing farmers of greens:fruits and vegetables, type B as both meat/veg and type AB which is a fairly new blood type -only 900 years old, which is an amalgamation of A and B). I am a type B and the perfume for my type sounds intriguing

  • I haven’t felt so excited in a while. The concepts really made me spark, the multimedia interaction, the type representations and the overall design of the bottles. Reminded me of I Hate Perfume descriptively.I hope to hell I get a sniff at these. I’ll be a Clan of the Cave Bear girl and go for O. Great review Mark.

  • mariotgomez says:

    My Holy Grail of a scent has been trying to find the scent of wet concrete. Although I am A+, I am looking forward to becoming a AB.

  • I am a bit confused. Does “compatibility” mean that there is compatibility issue between my blood group (which is A by the way) and the perfumes themselves. From what I read I guess not but the term is confusing.

    The green A sounds fine to me. I love green fragrances. But 0 sounds very attractive, as well as AB of course.

  • I have type O myself, but all of these types sound utterly amazing! I haven’t had the liberty to experience them as of yet, but am excited and can’t wait try them out! I’m sure that once they do come out, I will be buying at least one of each!

  • I honestly cannot wait for this to finally break US soil. If we didn’t have so many regulations about everything, we have had it by now. It’s kind of interesting that I have always had an attraction to woodsy and heavy smells so I expect I’ll like Type O but in actuality, I’m Type B, don’t know where the sweetness comes in but w/e.

  • Queen Cupcake says:

    Lots of interesting parts to this review! I’m astonished and interested to know that Michael Edwards found Blood Concept the most interesting thing that day. My blood type is O.

  • I’m Blood Type O Positive, and personality wise O is the juice for me, alas, I have fybromyaga in due to Gulf War Disease and if I’m not careful, heavy scents, in Florida will induce painful migraines! So I am limited to Type B, as far as wearability!!! 🙂

  • I’ve been fairly intrigued by the idea of these fragrances since I first learned of them … this article has just made me want to smell them even more.

    Although I am drawn most to O I’m very interested in trying out AB – it’s sounds to be something really different (they’re all ‘different’ because of the pretty unique concept but AB sounds way ‘out there’)

  • I’m type O but I’d rather be type A. I think I could never be a hunter, but I would feel comfortable as a harverster or a picker of fruits.
    However, the notes in type O sound right up my alley 🙂
    I’m afraid I will dislike the blood accord, but I’d like to try these scents. They may surprise me.

  • My blood type is AB negative, the most rare, so I’d like to try the one that matches! So excited!

  • Coming from the Blood Biologics industry, this Blood Concept idea of blood types with scents is facinating. Though I am the universal donor O type, I am drawn to the rare AB. I love the intrigue of slate, wet concrete and cedar

  • I do love the smell of leather. I am type O. Although, I do believe I am naturally drawn to the earthy scent of A. The most interesting thing about this line is, do these smells really act as a pheromone? I would love to test this out and figure out my love potion. Thanks!

  • I’m type B blood type so would like to try that one. But type A also intrigues me! I find it interesting that AB would be the least approachable, so I would love to get a whiff of that one!

  • I am very interested in trying this out! Personally, I find the description of O to be the most compelling, as it seems to embody the spirit of the very idea of a blood-scented perfume.

  • I can’t wait to try this! My blood type is an O so that’s the one I want to try first. Sounds almost primal. I also want to try type A, it sounds very interesting…

  • I think I’m type O, and I found that description the most interesting! Would love the chance to check these out.

  • I sure hope there are some tests left, I’ve been so excited about this product since I first heard about it months ago!

  • Actually, I do not know my blood type.

    From Mark’s description, I’d be most likely to like B — but I won’t be able to pass up AB (I love those aldehydes).

    Interestingly, I can tell from Mark’s review that we originally shared the same reaction, my thought was “Grrr, Vampire diet?”. I did not realize that there was a link between blood types and the evolution of the civilizations.

  • (sorry, didn’t finish with what type, but they all sound so great that I would hope to try each based on moods or events I would be going to..)

  • I would have to say either O or B. I love earthy tones. Fresh dug dirt smell. But A also intrigues me.

    I dont remember my actual blood type. I do know I am RH negative though.

  • I can’t wait to try this; I love when science influences beauty. Also, I work in the blood bank and am interested to see how much these scents reflect real blood.

  • I hope these fragrances make it to the US; they sound really intriguing. I’m a B and the apple, cherry, black tea and patchouli notes seem really appealing, but I would love to try them all. Can’t wait for the release!!!

  • I’m very extremely interested in B; it seems to have a lot of notes I really enjoy, it definitely seems like something I’d love to wear… otherwise I’m just fascinated with your description of AB. I’m almost determined to like it.

    I completely hear you about the Twilight thing though.. I immediately want to hate everything that’s associated with it. I’m so glad that wasn’t what I first thought about when I heard of Blood Concept.

    I’d absolutely be able to smell these to review on my own blog. I can’t wait to get my hands on them.

  • I am A, blood typing has become a big profit maker in other areas as well for example diets and proper way for each type to eat. I am sure these will connect deeply to most people.

  • Michelle V. says:

    I know I am B-, which only 17% of the population can claim. And it saddened me to know that my scent is the ‘most accessible’ considering my blood is hardly accessible! 🙁 but I still want to experience these scents! I love the gothic element they present, and their campaign (which I have been following closely, eagerly anticipating the release of ‘My’ fragrance) is impeccable! Thank you for the excellent review, and for being able to smell, without prejudice, the awesome work they appear to be doing so far.

  • I have no idea what blood type I am, but AB seems ‘call out’ to me. The smell of rain, metal and sound of the busy crowds during the day but the quietness of the night, seems poetic. It reflects the experiences of most people, surrounded by people but in the end left all alone. I guess what appeals to me is the sadness but also the peace that come with being alone.

  • I know I an a type A+, and I have to say type A appeals to me most, though I really don’t know whether I would like it best! All of the others sound like they have something grand about them–animalics are always interesting to test, and Mark favored O, maybe this is an animalic that blends with this animal’s skin? 🙂

    Or type AB…the slate note promises something beyond the smell of industrial metal–I love “mineralic” notes, and while I really don’t like the smell of blood, this one as well as A sounds like it integrates it into complimentary smells, making the blood messenger of this artistic concept easier to come to terms with. Type B seems like something one can wear many places without being noticed *too much*, even though it sounds like it has its own strong character–The “melting pot of cultures”–gourmandish, Oriental base, none of them sound indistinct….I am excited to get to participate in a draw to try these! If I win a card, I will take it to the blood bank next time I donate blood and let the phlebotomists get a scratch-n-sniff too!

  • Bring on agricultural orchard B. Actually, they sound like smelling them as a quartet really is the best way to make the most of the experience.

  • John Reasinger says:

    I am quite perplexed and intrigued at the same time, by this concept. “B” (my type) may be the one that smells best (on me), but the “oddness” factor of “AB” (with its screeching metallic scent and mineral accord and wet cement *sighs deeply*, and the green galbanum accord with tomato leaves of “A” sound heavenly…while the cypress of “O” has me DROOLING thinking about it with cedar and skin musks. I love this whole idea, and a a BIG True Blood fan! I often wish I had all four to wear while watching the show…and I just adore the delivery system of a dropper and bottle! VERY scientific…

  • I believe I may be blood type A+ (though embarrassed to say not actually sure) , however A is the one that, at least by the notes, least appeals to me. (I absolutely abhor the smell of tomato leaves !). The two that appeal to me most are O and B . I think I’m going to enjoy Blood Concept. It’s at very least pretty original, which is always welcome in fragrance. (Or anything for that matter :o)

  • My blood type is O+. I would be very interested to see if that would actually smell good on me.

    I am always interested in new things & this concept sounds very interesting & intriguing.

    I think it would be a big hit with the vampiric & goth cult groups.

  • Jeffrey Kanyuck says:

    Interesting concept, I wonder if I would really like the smell that is associated with my blood type

  • i will go for O..not that it is my blood type which i dont know which one is, but O is the oldest blood type so the mother of other 3…the first thing always has a certain charm