No matter how diligent I am; no matter how careful I am, I just can’t try every single perfume I hear about. Like everything in life I feel that if it is our destiny to meet around a flacon one day it will happen. My latest meeting with delayed gratification is with perfumer Maria McElroy. Both EIC Michelyn Camen and Senior Editor Ida Meister have sung the praises of her Aroma M line of fragrance to me. Which was why when Ms. McElroy offered me the opportunity to review her first new fragrance in five years, Aroma M Geisha Amber Rouge, I jumped at the chance. I think Ms. McElroy realized my lack of experience and she strived to help me broaden my knowledge base as along with the sample of Geisha Amber Rouge she sent me the original Geisha Rouge and her new EDP formulation of Geisha Rouge. All three of these fragrances opened up a door into Ms. McElroy’s creative process a figurative Study in Scarlet.

The original Geisha Rouge feels the brightest of the three on my skin. I think it might just be in comparison to the other two because a fragrance made up of notes of clove, cinnamon, incense, anise, sandalwood, tonka, and vanilla should not feel this full of light but somehow it does. It is as crisp as a sunny winter day full of many of the scents of the season. The brand-new EDP version of Geisha Rouge has all of the same notes but Ms. McElroy adds a more diffusive alcohol base. This has the effect of transforming the original formation from winter’s day into winter’s night as the same ingredients in the same proportions have the warmth of a banked fire that spreads its warmth throughout the day. Just that simple change in carrier solvent changes the feel of Geisha Rouge’s nature in beautifully unexpected ways.

With my perfumed homework done it was time for me to assay the new Geisha Amber Rouge. Ms. McElroy could have again chosen to make the obvious change and just add amber to the existing Geisha Rouge; based on the simple change of alcohol in Geisha Rouge one could imagine that would have been good, too. Instead Ms. McElroy creates a sensual powerful  riff on Geisha Rouge which succeeds as much for its differences as its similarities. This one reminds me of a roaring bonfire.

Some of the same spices from Geisha Rouge in the presence of clove, cinnamon, and anise start Amber Geisha Rouge off in familiar territory. The changes are heralded by amber from Morocco which blows across the heart of this fragrance like a simoom full of fragrant dust. The base is a mix of incense and wood resins to give a rich depth to the end of this fragrance.

Geisha Amber Rouge has excellent longevity and above average sillage.

My figurative study of Ms. McElroy’s Rouge collection was a pleasure and each fragrance built upon the other until Geisha Amber Rouge finished with a powerful flourish.

Disclosure: This review was based on samples provided by Aroma M and Maria McElroy

Thanks to Ms. McElroy we have a sample vial of Geisha Amber Rouge to giveaway. To be eligible leave a comment naming your favorite red thing. Draw ends on December 10, 2011.

We announce the winners only on site and on our Facebook page, so Like Cafleurebon and use our RSS option…or your dream prize will be just spilt perfume

–Mark Behnke, Managing Editor

-Art Direction, EIC Michelyn Camen