New Fragrance: Jovoy Quand? + Jovoy’s “Olfactive Universe Draw” (WOW!!!! $550)

A few steps from the prestigious Place Vendôme, THE place for fine jewelry in Paris, a new shop has opened in that is the buzz of all perfumistas.

Jovoy, a perfume house founded in the early 1920’s, into this Shoppe François Hénin welcomes you, along with Hugo Lambert. They are ambassadors of more than twenty brands at once inventive, surprising and often steeped in history: Amouage, ApoTcare, Arty Fragrance (candles created by Elisabeth de Feydeau), Atelier Flou, Charriol, Dorin, E. Coudray, Evody, Féraud, Frapin, Grossmith, Histoires de Parfums, Hubert Maes, Illuminum, Isabey, Jacques Fath, L.T. Piver, Martine Micallef, Rancé, Masaki Matsushima, Nobile 1942, Poiray, Parfum d’Empire, Technique Indiscrète, The Hype Noses (candles)… and of course Jovoy; these are all the perfume brands available in this beautiful store, sleekly designed, featuring so many wonderful olfactive creations, often not widely available in France or in Paris.

Robert Piguet, E. Coudray, Lubin, Houbigant, and Jaques Fath are very much ‘au courant’ these days – part of the passionfor resurrecting the legacy of houses of perfumery past. The sleeper in “everything old is new again” perfumery, and one of our personal favorites, is Jovoy Paris. Created in 1923 and brought back in 2006 by co-founders Blanche Arvoy and members of her family, the brand was so obscure that it was not well known even among collectors.

Packaged in 1930’s Perlinette-inspired flacons complete with pearl-shaped actuator and presented in Pellaq-leather covered cylindrical cases, there are seven fragrances in the collection, ‘Les 7 Parfums Capitaux’; developed by perfumer Amandine Marie, they are based on the main fragrance or olfactive family classifications: Hespéridé, Fougère, Chypre, Marine, Poudré, Oriental and Boisé.

Each of the seven fragrances can be worn alone or mixed with others, creating an experience that become distinctively you. Encourage the DIY perfumer in you, your unique perspective, your change in moods and become your own ‘nose’; an the best way to experience Jovoy is to custom-blend the essential scents until you have a AHA moment. Emmanulle and I really don’t like layering perfumesa, but since this line is created for just that and the accords are not an overwhelming number as in many lines, beautiful and complex; Jovoy Paris is one of the few of this genre that we highly recommend to play with.

Hespéridé ~ the citrus family, with notes of mandarin, citron, bergamot, jasmine, violet, cedar, vetiver and white musk

Chypre ~ the chypre family, with notes of rose, peony, jasmine, lily of the valley, honey, amber, vetiver and patchouli

Marine ~ the marine family, with notes of pepper, pear, grapefruit, apple, watermelon, cedar and musk

Poudré ~ the powder family, with notes of mimosa, almond, violet, iris, rose, vanilla and cedar

Oriental ~ the oriental family, with notes of pink pepper, bergamot, peach, rose, vanilla, cedar and amber

Boisé ~ the woods family, with notes of freesia, cumin, red cedar, violet, sandalwood, musk and palisander wood

Ca Fleure Bon recommends the following combinations:

CLASSIC/Elegant

Poudre + Boise

Hesperide + Boise

Fougere + Boise

SEXY/Sensual

Oriental + Hesperide

Chypre + Fougere

Poudre + Chypre

Oriental + Chypre

Sophisticated/Stylish

Poudre + Marine

Boise + Oriental + Hesperide ***** Highly recommended

Hesperide + Marine

Michelyn’s personal scent is 3:1 Oriental + Boise, Emmanuelle’s is 2:1 mix of the same, (but now with summer approaching she is enjoying Hespéridé + Boisé. Jovoy is fine fragrance, and we guarantee that there is no way to create a “wrong” scent.

Now for the new fragrance QUAND?; Francois Henin decided to reformulate “Quand ?” creating a ‘parfum changeant’. First solar and greedy, it then gives the power to flowers, accompanied with rare woods. A fragrance dedicated to lovers, a perfume for the woman who plots and makes a lover’s heart beat; that woman is both complex in her way of thinking… sublte and sultry (une Parisienne ) who loves with a capital “L”.

Notes of Quand?: Blackcurrant, raspberry, plum and iris jasmine, freesia, peony, rose , violet, cedar, sandalwood, musk, vanilla, and amber.

François Hénin and Jovoy offer to two CaFleureBon readers two wonderful gifts: One “Quand ? 50ml, and one very fortunate winner will receive a splendid coffret set of Jovoy “7 Parfums Capitaux” …

Yes, YES … all seven worth $450.00. Please leave a comment on how you would customize the “7 Parfums Capitaux” and why you would want to try the 1.7 oz Quand? Draw closes May 27, 20011 12 pm EST.

This is our Grandest Draw of the month!!!! Like Jovoy on Facebook http://www.facebook.com/pages/JOVOY-PARIS-Perfumer-Since-1923/47928292739?sk=wall#!/pages/JOVOY-PARIS-Perfumer-Since-1923/47928292739

– Michelyn Camen, Editor in Chief and Art Director and Emmanuelle Varron, Senior Editor

Editor’s Note: I chose the work of the Deco Artist Federico Beltrán Masses (1885-1949) who portrayed celebrities and royalties from all over the world such as Alfonso XIII of Spain, rulers of Kapurthala, India, King George VI of England and the Shah of Persia, dukes and princesses , the Rothschilds and idols of the silent screen such as Pola Negri and Rudolph Valentino (with whom he first met in 1924 in New York where the painter had an exhibition at the Wildenstein Gallery).

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53 comments

  • I have the Jovoy Oriental, which I thoroughly enjoy on it's own, but I'd love to try some of the different combinations, to match my mood, the weather,  or my surroundings.  And as for Quand ?, aren't we all on the look-out for fragrances that makes a lover's heart race. I know I am. 

  • This is the grandest draw!
    The art works depicted and the store front photo are lovely in this review. Here is the combo I would be interested in trying ou with the 7 Parfums Capitaux t: Chypre (for a patchouli base) Boise (for its musk and wood notes) and Hersperide (for its cedar and white musk). I think that sounds like layers that would best represent me. I see balance in the slight floral the earthiness and the sweetness of the peony.
    Why would I want to try Quand? I have never been to Paris and I know I am parisian at heart (not just for my love of croissant). Fragrence is paramount in ones quest to express themselves…no matter the scent it always smells different on others. Its like your fingerprint. Did I mention I wasnt to go to Paris? Well, if I were to win this draw, I would be able to experience a little taste of Parisian culture.  🙂 

  • These fragrances are gorgeous, i was fortunate enough to be able to try the Poudre and loved it…i believe that these fragrance would be wonderful to layer depending on the season or to wear by themselves. If the Quand is anything as fabulous as the Jovoy Terra Incognita then i must have a bottle. The notes in Quand sound right up my alley with notes like sandalwood, amber, vanille, musk and more this has to be a very sexy fragrance. What a fabulous prize package to give away. A dream come true.

  • Oh my goodness, what a great draw! Quand ? sounds lovely – I love berries up top, I feel like a bit of a minority in that, but a well-done fruit scent can be so sexy. The middle and base notes all sound great.
     
    I would like to mix Hesperide + Boise, and Oriental + Chypre. Hesperide + Marine might be nice for warm weather.
     
    I would love to go to that shop!! It looks amazing.

  • Francesca says:

    I'd like to try Quand because the notes sound lovely.
    I'd especially like to see what Hesperide and Poudre are like together.
    And I love the artwork you chose. I don't know this artist at all; thanks for sharing the images.

  • scentual healing says:

    Hesperide + Boise would be me choice for summer too!  … But why not try a little of all… one drop at a time…. love the art work by the Spanish painter… really made the classifications come alive. How nice to own 7 fragrances which I could create 100s of combinations for. Perhaps I would embark on a new career as a perfumer. I also found the article very educational explaining notes vs. accords, I did not know the difference.

  • Oh what a great draw this one is! And it would make a fabulous birthday gift fro me to=) I would only be limited to my imagination on this one. I would defintiely  choose Oriental  and Boise. And  for a spicey aquatic  I would mix  Marine and Hesperide. I could go crazy with this!

  • taffynfontana says:

    This draw is beyond my imagination!! The combinations are  limitless and quite exciting My favorite combination  would be Oriental + Chypre+ Hesperide.  and Marine + Boise I am crossing my fingers and wishing really really hard for this great draw 🙂 

  • I would have to go with Oriental + Chypre for sexy…but might add Poudre as well for that 'boudoir' feel. I love plum notes so would love to try Quand to see how the plum plays out with the other fruits and florals. What an amazing give away! Wonderful!

  • Oh my goodness… as a collector and amateur historian, I have only known about the early works of Jovoy and their Pearlettes but this coffret is a thing of beauty!  How I would love to sniff what's inside as well!  Thank you for sharing the opportunity to see the images let alone the hope to own them! oxo~ DSH

  • Oh yes, I almost forgot: I think that the Hesperide & Boise might have a great effect as well as Oriental & Poudre.  Quand sounds lovely as I do love Plum notes as well! 😉 ~DSH

  • you smell!!! says:

    Wow! wow! and wow! this draw is simply amazing, I like all the classic ones Poudre/Boise, Hesperide/Boise, Fougere/Boise they sound like my kinda thing, thanks.

  • Parfums Mouton Noir says:

    Oh wow!  Just like the gorgeously delectable, decadent presentation boxes of the long gone perfume houses.  What a treasure.  Not only to be able to smell all of these scintillating scents, but to have them in such a lovely keepsake?  Fantastic! 

  • loverdoll78264 says:

    chypre and poudre sound interesting to me but then they all sound wonderful to me. So does the Quand. . . .G

  • I would experiment and mix Jovoy Poudre with Hesperide, LOL. And the new one? I feel like a pure Parisienne, thus I guess it would suit me. Thanks for entering me in all drawings.

  • kastehelmi says:

    Wow, how unoriginal am I? Of all of the combinations I would try, the first woule be Hesperides+Boise–I would be inclined to layer Hesperides with everything, and see which combination of Oriental, Poudre, Boise  and Chypre, or whether any one of them suits my skin best….
    While Marine doesn't sound like the first to suit me I recently greatly enjoyed sampling Ebba By the Sea and Mazzolari Marina–both wonderful. I have no doubt that the Jovoy Coffret could draw the interest of millions of noses! Those gorgeous pewter dewdrop bottles too…
    I would love to try Quand? because of the notes that sound like they would actually smell grand on the skin, the playful name,  and the subject of lovers–how could that old catch-all description not seduce me and make my heart beat faster?

  • angie Cox says:

    I think I would like Poudre alone and also with Oriental . I would enjoy trying unusual combinations too. Quand sound beautiful , I havn't found many scents with Blackcurrant and I love the smell of both fruits and the leaves.

  • Though I like the idea of combining scents and I keep getting different sets/brands that offer that capability of their scents, I usually tend to use those components "as is" leaving the combining part for later… and that "later" doesn't come, as a rule. So if by some wierd chance I do win the draw I do not think I'll end up doing much combining again.
    Why I want to try it? Because until today I haven't even heard of this brand and now I'm curious.

  • Undina

    I don't like blending as I mentioned. So many lines offer this type of product but there are too many and too confusing and you need a degree from the ISPCA in Paris. But I thoroughly enjoyed playing 'alchemist' and tested different combinations  2 years ago at Henri Bendel in NYC. Ghastly on me? fougere and poudre… but perhaps on someone else….

  • Anna in Lilac says:

    Dear Michelyn and Emmanuelle, thank you for the review! I would be definitely curious to play with "7 Parfums". I think it is much more difficult to make perfumes that can be superposed without killing each other or fighting with each other rather than individual perfumes. And from your review it sounds like Amandine Marie succeeded!!!
    I'm also curious about the list of 7 parfums capitaux, and how they would fit the list of "7 peches capitaux" (7 sins)… Wrath, greed, sloth, pride, lust, envy and gluttony…  Is oriental raher lust??? Or oriental gourmand as a gluttony (gourmand oriental???)

  • I don't like mixing fragrances but you never know … I like trying everything at least once. Oriental and Boise could be great together. Poudre + Boise and Chypre + Oriental are my other choices. Should I say I will be extremely happy if I win this coffret? 🙂
    Regarding Quand. It sounds well balanced. Blackcurrant, raspberry, plum might be a perfect fruity choice for the floral bouquet: iris jasmine, freesia, peony, rose , violet. The base is perfect: sandalwood, musk, vanilla, and amber.
    Also how can I ignore the comment: who loves with a capital "L". That sounds like my kind of love.
    This is a must try.

  • Ooh, just can't wait to stop by Jovoy and sniff when I'm in Paris in a couple of weeks time, thanks for the tip. The oriental/ boise sounds a winner 🙂

  • Quand sounds like something that could finally be _the_ Parisian scent i'm always looking for, having lived in Paris and having some beautiful memories of this.
     
    the 7 perfumes sound like so much fun! i'd try anything + boise and anything + hesperide, but mostly i'm sure i'd enjoy wearing them on their own as i'm not much into mixing – i prefer someone with a better nose to do this for me… but what a beautiful gift! what an awesome draw 🙂

  • What a great draw! This is like a dream come true because I love to layer. I try mixing some of my perfumes, with diverse results (not always good).
    If I won the wonderful Jovoy coffret I would layer Hesperidé + Boisé and Poudré + Marine (Well, I'm sure I would layer all of them in different ways LOL).
    I would love to try Quand? too. Fruity notes are difficult on me and I'm not always comfortable with them, but this perfume sounds really appealing, and Paris is one of my favorite cities. I have only been once but I fell in love with it.
    Thank you!

  • Quand sounds perfect for summer here. I'm just beginning to warm up to fruity notes and would love to try this out. As for layering…I would probably do Oriental/Boise/Poudre for me…not sure how much of each, but would probably start with a 1:1:1 ratio and go from there. I've had Jovoy on my 'to-try' list forever-maybe now is the time:)

  • Charlotte says:

    How incredibly beautiful!  I can't list just one way I would combine either of these lovely fragrances.  I would have to start each season trying a new and unique way to wear each one of them and then wear them combined!  It would be a experiment of love for me truly, mixing and matching these equally gorgeous scents, it would be heaven.  The bottles are so beautifully packaged and the presentation is so elegant, I want one!!

  • stellaglo says:

    i'd be thrilled just to smell any of them. naturally i went first to the chypre, as a stand alone scent it must be heavenly! i'm not much of a perfume mixer, but would be overjoyed to have these toys to play with!

  • sonia garcia says:

    Sometimes I layer and with good results, like I did with Cardinal and Majeste la Rose, it was lovely. But this are supposed to be layered/combined/mixed whatever the word is. I'd love to try the sophisticated/stylish ones. Thanks for doing this amazing draw!

  • cassandra says:

    I would like to mix the Marine and the Poudre…I like being different…I will dream about the scents in this coffret and whoever wins this will be one lucky perfumista…

  • M – I agree with you on combining scents.  I've never been a fan.  I figure, I'm not a perfumer, so how would I know what to mix…and why would I want to experiment?  I'd rather the perfumer figure it out for me; otherwise, I'm just flying blind.  Sure, I may come up with something on my own, but as you mention for you, it would probably take me a year, too!  I don't have the patience or the energy to experiment.  Hey, but if I had my own kit, ya never know.  I may find a new talent I didn't think I had.  If I had to blindly choose which to combine, I'd probably try the ones you recommended in the Sexy/Sensual category.  Of those, I'd try Oriental + Hesperide first…and perhaps throw in some Chypre???
    As to Quand – it's a reformulated classic – and a complete perfume!  Plus, I want to love with a capital "L".  🙂

  • WOW! is right. What a wonderful offer.  The Quand sounds absolutey beautiful and I would be happy to win it.  I have always been afraid of layering fragrances, not knowing what the end result will be.  However, I would love to experiment with the coffret and would start out using your suggestions.

  • I want to try Quand because it sounds like it has everything I love in it but I think the coffret sounds enormous fun.  I think my first choice to try in combination would be Chypre and Hesperide.

  • Mary Beth says:

    I think I found the rapture – or something very close. : )
    Oriental and Hesperide sounds perfect. .Tweak the proportions based on season….can we say signature?  Quand's description sounds vaguely familiar. Something within the past 20 to 30 years but I can't retrieve the name just now.

  • Ooh, the delights of Jelly Belly combo-making for perfumistas qua potionmasters! Fun.


    2 Hespéridé +
      1 Boisé + 1 Oriental = fresh-spiced woods
    1 Oriental + 2 Poudré = warm, silky floral

    Por qua QUAND?? You had me at 'blackcurrant', a midsummer fruit favorite.

  • "Quand ?" is a very interesting perfume. All fruity at the beginning, then so flowery… And somehow a very classical shape, very "chic" !
    I used to combine scents quite a lot, few years ago.
    But now I appreciate just wearing one, except when it can be very interesting. For example, Montale "Oud Cuir d'Arabie" with Jean-Paul Gaultier "Classique". The "7 Parfums Capitaux" is another permission to create your own combination, as each one is so well made…
    For sure, both will be nice presents to give… 

    Bonne chance, alors ! 🙂

  • JoanElaine says:

    I would assign different moods to each perfume. I'm a very moody person, so I would have a go-to fragrance for each one!
    Quand? sounds simply gorgeous. I love a good "adult" fruity floral.

  • Valentine says:

    This is just too fun! These sound wonderful, and I love the thought of a customized, high quality fragrance. My scent would definitely be Oriental + Poudre, with perhaps a hint of Boise, since I love soft, comforting vanillas best.
    Based on the notes, Quand sounds like something I would  adore, especially in that drydown. I also love berry notes in vanilla fragrances, so I'm very curious to see the berry-floral-drydown progression.

  • I've never mixed any of my fragrances, just too chicken to try!  But with a "kit" like this, I think I'd try as many combinations as I could come up with.  I like the sound of the Boise + Oriental + Hesperide combo, using the Hesperide as the top, the Oriental as the heart (and leaning heaviest on these notes, as they are my favorites), and Boise on the bottom. 
    As for "Quand?" it sounds rather delish – and I admit to being a sucker for fragrances whose names are a question – go figure!

  • This i so incredibly beautiful, i can't stop looking at the beautiful case. That will be a perfume dream come true for anybody. Make you want to play perfumer when you start layering and experimenting with a friend, testing which combo you would love best. Again the Quand sounds amazing, with those notes, how could it not be.

  • What a fabulous draw!  I've never been very brave about combining scents but this coffret is truly inspriring. I think I would start with combinations that included Boise or Hesperide and slowly move toward working with the Chypre. And I too would love to try Boise and Hesperide together for summer. It would be fascinating to work out what proportions of each accord are best for my skin in the various combinations you have already come up with.
    As for Quand? I love the sound of the notes, especially the plum and the cedar, and that it is designed for a woman who is "complex in her way of thinking … subtle and sultry…"  I''m not a Parisienne, but I'm very willing to smell like one!

  • I would love to use these to blend up something amazing that reminds me of my daughter. She is solid, and loving in every way. I would like to try the chypre with Marine and Oriental. I love the bold Pink Pepper, and the oriental spices are so "grown up" and womanly, just as my daughter is becoming at a fresh 18. I love layering and combining scents to make something special with real meaning behind it. Would love this…Mother and Daughter scent…

  • I would try the time-release proportion to layer boise & hesperide, perfect for the summer in the San Francisco Bay area – at least that's how my timid flight of fancy whispers me at this moment…Most intrigued by Terra Incognita, with the lush oriental florals ;))) Would love to win, most definitely…Thanks for the challenging and thought- and sense-provoking drawing 🙂

  • Lynne1962 says:

    I have never tried any Joyvoy scents before,,,but love the idea of blending.  J Malone was the first line of products I bought for blending purposes.  We perfumistas seem to be so fickle that blending keeps our scents fresh and suitable to our moods.
    I would blend chypre + boise for the first go around.  Quand sounds amazing with its woody-cedar + vanille base.  What a great draw!!!!

  • Michellle Hunt says:

    Oooo…what fun!  I think I would try to customize by blending the Hespiride with Poudre for a fresh citrus/powdery effect, it sounds like it would be a fresh summer combination.
    Quand sounds lovely…i always enjoy a berry topnote, and the fragrance seems very multifaceted, it would be fun to observe the changes as the notes progress.
    I would love to enter the draw, thanks! 

  • I cannot stop looking at this beautiful case. This is going to be a perfumistas dream come true. I know that the Jovoy fragrances are each fabulous each one by itself, but the thought of blending and trying different variations sounds fabulous. How could you go wrong, its like custom blending your won scent. The presentation of the case itself is out of this world. Quand's notes sound wonderful for summer evenings, i am really looking forward to that one.

  • So now i am wondering if Jovoy will be sold in the US anytime soon. I do not live to any of the grand perfume stores that some of you do, for me most of this has to be mail order, sometimes it would be nice to order from a place within the US. Many times unless mentioned on a blog lie here, these beautiful small niche fragrance lines fall under the radar.  i think i would mix Poudre and Oriental to start and then go from there. This i so exciting.

  • Thank you  Emmanuelle, Michelyn informed me that Henri Bendel maybe carrying that line also. I wish they would show it on their website. Ahhhhhhh this truly will be a dream come true for the lucky person /perfumista that wins this. Layering, not layering….to each their own, but the possibilities truly are endless. If the rest smell anything like Poudre and Terra Incognito this will be a joy ride for a lucky perfumista 🙂