Mystery of Musk: Sharini Parfums Naturels *Graines de Paradis* – Agrestic Bliss

 

 

 

It seems inconceivable that there can exist so many gifted natural perfumers, of whom one has never heard.

If the submission of Graines de Paradis by Sharini is a portent of things to come, the future of natural perfumery looks pretty damn sweet.

 

 

 

 

I immediately sprayed my upper arm  [unscented ’real estate’ can be a real premium among  addicts] , and found myself assaulted by a powerful animalic blast.

[It pleased me greatly !]

 

 

 

This was clearly NOT going to be a timorous, powdery musk.

 

 

 

From first sniff, the quality of materials was apparent, as if no expense had been spared.

 

Zesty top notes of white grapefruit, ginger, green mandarine, and cognac mingled with a wild cherry / rooibos red tea tincture.

The effect resembled nothing so much as the breeze before the thunderclap; I could sense the depth of what was brewing beneath.

 

That which followed was floral, exquisitely so.

White rose, linden, monoi, fleur d’oranger, jasmine, and broom- combining the sweet with the fresh [ for me linden can be both; broom is simply heavenly, so bright and airy, but full-bodied].

 

 

 

 

The base notes growl; I can’t express it any other way.

The use of the aged agarwood, olibanum, Australian sandalwood [ I generally find it fairly astringent compared to Mysore- but here it was tempered with many other notes], and patchouli created a very intense base.

Ambrette seeds added their singular delicate muskiness, but married with angelica, it waxed spicy / raw/ herbal; the iris and Madagascar vanilla pod tincture helped to round out this potent mélange .

 

 

I find the tenacity of Graines de Paradis remarkable.

It reminds me of how livestock smell when they return to the barn, after lolling about in summer fields to graze; their pelts redolent of sweet wildflowers and herbs, grassy, haylike sweetness blended with real animal sweat.

 

 

 

 

Please- do not be dismayed.

This is absolutely [sic] gorgeous jus, and extremely evocative.

 

 

 

Should you wear it to the office ?

Perhaps not- but every time you do wear it, beloved pastoral reminiscences should surround you with agrestic bliss.

It’s the real thing.

  Ida Meister, Sr. Editor

 

Editor's Note: The paintings are some of the works of the French Orientalist, Jean Leone Gerome, who painted alot of beasties!!!!! "Leone and lions" made good companions to Ida's piece. Jean Leone Gerome painted in the mid 1800s when there were few if any synthetics used in perfume.

 

Reminder: Alexandra Balahaoutis of Strange Invisble Perfumes 'Temple of Musk' is the bottle we are giving away at CaFleureBon. We will draw from among all comments on The Mystery of Musk articles at the end of the project. 

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12 comments

  • chayaruchama says:

    Michelyn, I'm wowed by the choiceof art.
    Real synergy !
    It helps that you, too- have sampled this.
    Thank you !

  • It makes my heart happy to see the first line "It seems inconceivable that there can exist so many gifted natural perfumers, of whom one has never heard." Nick really is a wonderful perfumer. In 2005 I created naturalperfumery.com to try to get the perfumers on my yahoo group "out into the world" and it did help to a certain extent. However, it was the birth of such great perfume blog sites such as this that are the real messengers to the world. Thanks so much to the Cafleurebon crew!

  • Yes for agrestic!  To me musk is one scent that must mingle with the natural smell of the wearer (be it real or imaginary) so that description "how livestock smell when they return to the barn, after lolling about in summer fields to graze; their pelts redolent of sweet wildflowers and herbs, grassy, haylike sweetness blended with real animal sweat" really touched me~  That to me is the mystery of musk…

  • Somerville Metro Man says:

    Anya speaking for myself this project has been eye-opening. I’d like to believe all of this talent would have found their fragrances reviewed at some point. The beauty of this project is that we are seeing the true kaleidoscope of fragrance when interpreted by different minds and it has been an exhilirating ride. Thanks to you and the Natural Perfumers Guild for making this possible.

  • Somerville Metro Man says:

    Ida you captured this one spot on. Also like you this was my first exposure to Nicholas Jennings artistry and I was also mightily impressed.

  • chayaruchama says:

    Thanks, Herr Mark 😉
    This is reminiscent of Mona Di Orio's Nuit Noire
    And that is meant as a compliment, because I am extremely fond of both the perfumer and the parfum-
    But it is a completely natural and nuanced perfume , which is vastly different, and harder to do with no synthetics….
    Agree that this is an illuminating experience.
    What a joy !

  • TY Anya, as you know all of us have wear natural fragrances! I have been a member of NPG for 5 years, and I am constantly amazed as to how many new members there are… a new generation of perfumers and perfumistos from every continent!

  • Gorgeous review for a lovely perfume!
    And the paintings are amazing too! I have just discovered a new painter to love!

  • A beautiful synergy, consisting of Ida's poetic description, the exquisite perfume, and Michelyn's keen eye for the art that expresses both. Bravo to all!