More Than A Casual Spritz: Fragrance Appreciation + La Lune de Miel Perfume Draw

 

 

The time has come for perfume to be appreciated as an olfactory art form that is the synthesis of nature and culture.  From the ancient cultivation of botanicals and their extraction to the creation of modern molecules in a laboratory, the design of a fragrance can only be accomplished by the inspired skill of an artist who understands the living chemistry of odor and has the imagination to compose unique fragrances.  The general public, however, is not always aware of how complex this process can be and views the sampling of fragrances to be synonymous with the Macy’s perfume counter.  Perfume appreciation  and understanding our own unique "fragrance print" that requires more than just the casual spritz.  Selecting a fragrance can be as sophisticated as evaluating a wine, if approached in a knowledgeable manner.

 

 

Jean Claude Ellena,  Master perfumer 

 

While it is common practice to sample a perfume on a scent blotter (also known as mouillettes), is it the best way to experience its structure, composition and dry down? Definitely not. For one, our skin is not made of paper, so why would we depend on a pefume testing strip to reveal notes that best unfold upon contact with our bodies? Perfumers use them as tools to evaluate the progress of their work, but they understand the need to test on real people. And yes, body chemistry matters and can affect the way a perfume smells; sometimes in subtle ways and sometimes quite dramatically. Some of the variables that can affect scent and how we smell include age, gender, skin type (dry, oily, etc.), ethnicity, time of day, season, temperature, humidity, pH of the skin, metabolism and our probiotic imprint.

Michael Edwards, a world renowned fragrance expert: Fragrance Wheel 

We can also heighten our awareness of smell and increase our olfactory sensitivity. Perfumers learn to memorize and identify hundreds of fragrant compounds as part of their training. They are taught to “think” with their noses. This helps them build a memorized scent library that can be recalled when designing a fragrance. Since our olfactory memory is so accurate, odor memorization is a skill anyone can develop to build awareness of their fragrant world and expand odor classification beyond the seven basic categories of citrus, spicy, herbal, fruity, gourmand, floral or earthy. Identifying and describing odors also helps develop a vocabulary to articulate the emotions, thoughts and feelings a perfume can evoke.

 

 

Patou Joy Fragrance for your evening "nose"

 

It is common practice to categorize fragrances according to families (chypre, oriental, floral, incense, resinous), but it is also possible to view them according to time of day (morning fragrances, evening fragrances) seasonal changes (summer scents, winter scents) and temperature. The morning nose awakens to lighter fragrances while the evening nose, possibly fatigued from a day’s work needs the stimulation of a heavier, more intense scent.

 

 

 Citrusy, oceanic fragrances are no brainers in summer when temperature and humidity cause increased perspiration, but out of place in winter when heavier scents are needed to counter the cold. Perfumes are an invisible wardrobe that can be changed throughout the day, evolve according to the seasons or reflect a perceived temperature. Contrary to the concept of the “signature scent”, our noses prefer variety.

 

Getty images 1950s

Age, Gender, skin type and ethnicity are immutable factors but  pH, metabolism and lipid balance can be modified. Washing with water based cleansers (soaps and surfactants) disrupt the skin’s acid mantle which changes pH and invites unfriendly bacteria to colonize causing breakouts and other conditions. Our skin needs to be slightly acidic, around pH 5, to promote healthy probiotic colonies and not disrupt the chemistry of a fragrance. Balanced pH can be accomplished internally by avoiding acid forming foods like meat, refined/processed foods and dairy in favor of an alkaline diet which helps the skin retain moisture. This is relevant as dry skin tends to absorb fragrant molecules while oils promote longevity. Maintaining balanced skin reduces the likelihood of sensitivities as well.

 

 Monclin Photo: Yosh Han's Exhibit at the San Francisco Artisan Fragrance Salon 

There are some fancy ways to smell perfumes like Frederic Malle’s scent booth or the wineglass-looking monclin which allows the “bouquet” of a fragrance to develop, but really, all one needs is an open mind, a working nose and some skin.  Here are some sniffing techniques that may prove helpful. After one’s choices have been narrowed down to four perfumes, two can be applied to the tops of the wrists and two to the tops of the elbows. That way the fragrances remain independent on similar skin (yes, different parts of the body smell different). When smelling, it is helpful to breathe in the aroma with the mouth and eyes closed while exhaling through the nose a few times over the area of the fragrance. This activates the scent. Between fragrances the “palate” can be cleansed by breathing through a wool scarf (wool traps odor molecules) or stepping outside for a round of Kapalabhati (yogic breathing). Coffee beans don’t do the trick and alter the way a fragrance is perceived.

  

 

Probably the hardest thing to do is approach a fragrance impartially without preconceived notions. Not only do we have cultural biases, but the aggressive marketing of fragrances can sway our views. Blind testing is what Chandler Burr is trying to encourage through his Open Sky project, a technique inspired by wine tasting.  His appointment as curator of the Department of Olfactory Art at New York's Museum of Arts and Design also promises to establish perfume as an art form in our collective consciousness.

 Baccarat Patanwalla Bhagwan Perfume Bottle

 

The explosion of perfume blogs in the last 10 years indicates that many  people are no longer satisfied with the cursory sniff but want to learn more about fragrances. Perfume criticism is a new genre that has garnered quite a following. The sale of antique perfume bottles and vintage perfumes has also exploded. This year’s International Perfume Bottle Association auction saw a single bottle of antique perfume sell for $63,000, a rare 1927 Baccarat design for Patanwalla containing the perfume “Bhagwan”. 

 

In addition, there are several perfume-themed books and novels that have debuted this year. The fragrance market has expanded to include not only commercial releases and classics, but niche, naturals and artisinal fragrances. There are perfume events, salons and expos. Perfumers are even venturing into other territories, exploring the use of fragrant materials in food and drink. And this is just the beginning! Hopefully, we can move beyond paper blotters and a  hasty spritz on the wrist to engage our bodies and our imagination in order to best appreciate these olfactory works of art.

 

Maggie Mahboubian, Guest Contributor

 Owner of LaLun Naturals Follow her Blog   Architecture of Perfume

 

 Alchemical Union

 

We are thrilled to offer a 10ml lab sample of Maggie's premier perfume, La Lune de Miel, a 100% natural fagrance to one reader.

 

Top Notes: Coriander, Cinnamon Leaf, Cumin

Mid Notes: Rosa Gallica, Wormwood, Raspberry

Base Notes: Patchouli, beeswax absolute, madagascar vanilla

 

Maggie, formerly an architect, has studied perfumery for ten years and will be releasing her collection September 2012. She has been creating skincare for over 15 years and  La Lun  natural skincare is based on seasonal rhythms of the skin  

 

To be eligible for the draw please leave a comment about something you learned from this article. Draw ends July 23, 2012

 

We announce the winners only on site and on our Facebook page, so Like Cafleurebon and use our RSS option…or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume.

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38 comments

  • I liked this article’s view on odor memorization, also touching on its emotional connections. I feel as if my own ability to distinguish between certain notes and genres is gradually improving, especially since becoming an avid reviewer a few years ago. It’s helpful to know what notes you enjoy, and what you evidently don’t enjoy.

    Thanks for the draw!

  • Well I didn’t know about how wool traps odor molecules and how sniffing coffee beans alters the scents of perfumes being smelled! Also the picture of the Baccarat bottle is beautiful.

    Thanks so much!

  • My goodness, I am very happy to learn the wool scarf trick! I used to smell my own skin, but that can get uncomfortable if you already sprayed fragrances all over your arms.

    I have arrived at wrist and elbow test though trial and error. Narrowing down to four is so hard though. Sigh.

    Thanks for the draw, the fragrance sounds lovely, so does its name!

  • The wool scarf trick will be very useful in the winter! I never liked the coffee beans when they were offered to me in between sniffs.

    Thanks for the opportunity, the fragrance sounds like one I would like.

  • I was not aware of the pH issues so I learned something here. I also enjoyed the illustrations. Thanks

  • I was not aware of the pH issues so I learned something here. I also enjoyed the illustrations. Thanks

  • Oooh, I learned that a Baccarat Bhagwan perfume bottle can go for a pretty penny — it gives me something else to scour for at yard sales and thrift stores. By the way, La Lune de Miel sounds delightful!

  • This is what I´ve always thought is important in what effect would certain perfume have on particular person: “Age, Gender, skin type and ethnicity are immutable factors but pH, metabolism and lipid balance can be modified”.
    Thanks for the opportunity.

  • Great to find out about the sniffing techniques, I was a coffee bean sniffer for many years and never thought that sniffing those would alter the way my nose perceives a fragrance. Thanks for the nice draw.

  • I didn’t know that the scent strips were called mouillettes…so very French! Thanks for the draw

  • Great article maggie and thanks again cafleurbon for another draw, i love these.I think as a whole what I learnt from this article is the methods of smelling perfume and also the way it reacts on the body.One thing I can be happy is that tha article mentions somnething i have always prefered. The smell of perfume on the body rather than on Blotters.I do use them but as it is mentioned in the article it is better to use the chemistry of the body to follow the progress of the scent.Also about how several factors can determine a scent like age, gender and so on.
    Lune de miel must smell great.
    Peace
    Jamal

  • Great review! wow the Baccarat bottle is trully a masterpiece! I too try the perfume I intend to buy on skin and go back to buy it after thorough sniffing. However I love meat and dairy I didn’t know it affects the skin balance. My skin surprisingly is not getting dehydrated! I wish I won the new La Lune de Miel the notes sound amazing!

  • It was new to me that I should smelll wool or use yoga breathing when I am trying new fragrances. I have to say that the whole article was great and very interesting, thank you! Thanks for the draw.

  • I learned that, our skin needs to be slightly acidic to promote healthy probiotic colonies and not disrupt the chemistry of a fragrance and that dry skin tends to absorb fragrant molecules while oils promote longevity.

  • Janet in California says:

    Very interesting. The fact that different parts of the boy smell differently makes me want to experiment with that. Breathing through wool shows why cashmere scarves hold scent so well!

  • Never knew that the pH balance affects how our perfume wears on our skin! Next time I practice kapalahbati I will also remember that it serves to cleanse the palate as well. Great article and nice to see mention of Chandler’s project which I wholeheartedly participate in!

  • Amberosmanthus says:

    I love the idea of building a scent library so scents can be accurately recalled and used as creative materials to create new fragrances. I suppose I hadn’t thought in detail about how a perfumer “builds” a perfume before. This makes so much sense. Thanks for your always interesting articles.

  • I knew a lot of the variables that affect scent, but I didn’t know that metabolism was one of them. It does make sense, though. Also, that a breathing through a wool scarf can cleanse your palate, because wool traps odor molecules. That is an awesome tip to share, and I had no idea! Thanks for the useful information, and for the draw. I would be thrilled to win La Lune de Miel!

  • I like the idea that selecting a fragrance can be as sophisticated as evaluating a wine! Thanks for the draw.

  • ringthing says:

    I didn’t realize that I can alter the pH balance of my skin through diet and cleansing, thus potentially changing the smell of perfume on my skin. I am also fascinated by the idea of memorizing scents. Thanks.

  • I’ve never heard about breathing through wool to cleanse your scent palette before!

  • Such close cousins as elbows and wrists will produce different odors, while, instead I would have imagined more distinctly underarms or say the bellybutton. One should inhale with eyes closed and mouth ajar, using a wool scarf, Burberry whenever possible to cleanse the palette between samplings.

  • Such a pleasure to read everyone’s comments!

    I also find it difficult to narrow down fragrances to 4, but those are the ones I’m seriously considering and then I always wait through the drydown before I make a decision. So much can happen during that time, especially with naturals 🙂

    A vegetarian friend once told me he could smell people who ate meat. I know it’s anecdotal, but there’s probably some truth to that. I didn’t mention it in the article, but there’s a swallowable perfume as well as deodorant pills!

    I LOVE the idea of using cashmere and will have to try it. It may sound odd, but after I breathe into wool, I can still smell the fragrance later on, that’s how effective it is. It makes sense since exhaling through the nose flushes out those odor molecules which get trapped in the wool.

    A final note: the Bhagwan was part of the last Maharaja’s perfume collection that was featured in the sale. Amazing!

  • I did not know that coffee beans are not a good way to cleanse the olfactory “palate” between perfume sniffs and that wool scarves work better. Good to know!

    Thanks for this interesting piece and also for having the draw!

  • I learned some ineresting techniques for scent testing:
    When smelling, it is helpful to breathe in the aroma with the mouth and eyes closed while exhaling through the nose a few times over the area of the fragrance. This activates the scent. Between fragrances the “palate” can be cleansed by breathing through a wool scarf (wool traps odor molecules) or stepping outside for a round of Kapalabhati (yogic breathing). Coffee beans don’t do the trick and alter the way a fragrance is perceived.”

    What’s cool is that I instinctively figured out the bit about breathing thru the nose over the area of the scent. But I never thought to keep my eyes closed, or to breathe though a wool scarf! or use yoga breathing. The monclin reminds me of sniffing tester bottle caps rather than the just-sprayed-on-paper scent to get an accurate idea of the drydown.

    I also liked the part about skin ph becaise I knew nothing about it at all, and the ‘nose training’ to identify scent notes–reminds me of musical training.

    Thanks for the draw! I would love to win La Lune de Miel , and thanks for the blog link too!

  • I had no ideation hat coffee beans were even used as a palate cleanser much less that they didn’t work (I’m brand new to serious perfume if you can’t tell).

  • Michelle U says:

    Well I knew that the skin PH is important but I never knew an alkaline diet helps the skin retain moisture. That is very interesting, The whole article was very interesting, informative and well written.
    Thnak you! 😀

  • Linnea Wiedeman says:

    i would have guessed that season, temperatures and gender could change a scent but I would never have guessed that age and ethnicity could as well.

  • Wow what an interesting article! I learned a lot actually from this, but I’m bookmarking this particular passage for future:

    After one’s choices have been narrowed down to four perfumes, two can be applied to the tops of the wrists and two to the tops of the elbows. That way the fragrances remain independent on similar skin (yes, different parts of the body smell different). When smelling, it is helpful to breathe in the aroma with the mouth and eyes closed while exhaling through the nose a few times over the area of the fragrance. This activates the scent. Between fragrances the “palate” can be cleansed by breathing through a wool scarf (wool traps odor molecules) or stepping outside for a round of Kapalabhati (yogic breathing). Coffee beans don’t do the trick and alter the way a fragrance is perceived.

    This will definitely be changing my visits to the perfume counter! Thank you!

  • Very useful article!
    The wool scarf trick was new for me, and the fact that coffee beans doesn’t work as a palate cleanser too. Thanks for the draw!

  • Scented Memories says:

    Interesting article! I found out more about the different ways a perfume is tested/smelled.

  • Fabulous and wonderfully written article! I didn’t know Maggie had a skin care line, and how exciting to be able to win her first perfume!

  • Did I miss the draw?????? Oh no..I love miel anything. Honey is my absolute fave note..this sounds so divine! Didn’t know water based cleansers were no good.

  • It’s ok if I’ve missed it, please pass to someone else if I am the winner by any chance, thank you.