Masque Milano Kintsugi Review (Vanina Muracciole) + Wabi Sabi Draw

Kintsugi bowl lifegatge.com

“Ring the bells that still can ring; forget your perfect offering. There is a crack, a crack in everything – that’s how the light gets in.” ~ Leonard Cohen, Anthem

Kintsugi (golden joinery), also referred to as Kintsukuroi (golden repair), takes the broken and not only repairs its fragments with gold /other precious metals – but renders it whole in an entirely novel fashion. This is pottery or lacquerware, mind. As a Japanese philosophy and practice it draws imperfection to its bosom: wabi-sabi. Masque Milano Kintsugi, Masque Milano’s latest release –  is likely among the finest fragrances I will smell in 2019: nothing else resembles it with its umami deliciousness, singularity and wearabilty as an artform.

 

stock photo

It is with loving wryness that I note the relevance of Michelyn assigning Kintsugi to me for review: I’ve often mirthfully referred to myself as the Cracked Vessel of the Divine (emphasis on ‘cracked’) – not, of course, as a work of art. Acceptance of one’s myriad flaws in this age of “60 Is The New 20” is absurdly confounding. Humbling inescapable physical evidence of the passage of time is irrefutable; all one needs is a mirror, a stealthy glance at the detritus of a life lived fully. It etches itself upon your visage, your corporeal self as surely as if it were tattooed upon the fleshly canvas. Reviling oneself yields precious little. It makes more sense to attempt to embrace what exists in its fractured, reconfigured state. Masque Milano Kintsugi, created by Vanina Muracciole comprehends this and offers us their aromatic interpretation.

Vanina Muracciole via Instagram

For Creative Directors Alessandro Brun, Riccardo Tedeschi and perfumer Vanina Muracciole, chypre as genre (and an oakmoss-free portrayal of it) was foremost in their collective mind. They worked with red algae from Japan, an overdose of patchouli coeur (a fractionated material which showcases patchouli’s earthy beauty sans 1960-70s headshop weediness); the inclusion of raspberry leaf for its complex scent profile: usually French in origin, it possesses jammy, tart, leathery facets. Violet leaf (a classic addition) graces Kintsugi, its earthy, leafy tones shimmering with a flash of limpidity and metal.

via JennaMorello.com

Notes of creamy, voluptuous magnolia and the venerable rose de Mai from Grasse – honeyed, curvaceous, succulent – provide a magnificent foil for this chypre-gone-Japonesque umami perfume, a blooming generous heart. They, along with Evaluator (and our colleague) Ermano Picco) envisioned a Japanese salty/savoriness “the texture of raw porcelain” and “salt shining in the light” as desirable fragrant attributes, and the synaesthesia of it filters through in one’s experience of Kintsugi – along with the burnished gold of a tangy palate-tempting amber grazed by vanilla but more salty, barely bitter than sweet. When a golden suede tone is mentioned I think of Safraleine and similar materials which lend themselves so readily to the perfumer’s hand; they contribute more metallic sheen and diffusivity of a warm dry nature which feels savory all by itself.

via Hermag.co

Masque Milano Kintsugi is its own creature, more than simply the sum of its parts. Shot through with gold and salt, it epitomizes the allure of the jolie-laide. This is a beauty with brains to match and plenty of soul, a perfume which will satisfy and intrigue the wearer and entourage. It leaves one with plenty to ponder – but au fin, its undeniable strange beauty cobbled from the unusual is compellingly truthful.

Raw Materials used in Masque Milano Kintsugi photo by Hernando© The rose de mai was grown in Vanina Muracciole's husband's garden

Notes: bergamot essential oil, Chinese magnolia essential oil, savory amber, golden suede, centifolia rose Grasse absolute, violet leaf absolute, benzoin Siam, raspberry leaf absolute, patchouli coeur, vanilla absolute

Samples graciously provided by Perfumariē and Alessandro Brun – many thanks! My nose is my own…

~ Ida Meister, Senior Editor and Natural Perfumery Editor

Michelyn with Alessandro at Perfumarie photo Hernando

Art Director: Michelyn Camen, Editor-in-Chief with Ida

Hernando Courtright, Marianne Butler and I had the pleasure of learning about both the creative process and the raw materials used in Kintsugi at Perfumarie on March 12, 2019-MC

Thanks to the generosity of Masque Milano we have a 5 ml advance sample of Masque Milano Kintsugi for one registered reader in the EU, USA or Canada. The fragrance will officially launch in May 2019

Or 

          

Choose a discovery kit of all 10 Masque Milano Perfumes: Masque Milano Terralba, Montecristo, Russian Tea, Times Square, Luci ed Ombre, Mandala, (homage to) Hemingway, L’Attesa, Romanza (Victorian Narcissus),Tango and Kintsugi.  Don't forget to Register here.  To be eligible, please tell us what appealed to you about Ida’s review of Kintsugi and how you embrace your own flaws… Draw closes 3/22/2019. Please be sure to leave in your comment, which you would like to win… the 5ml or the discovery set.

Follow us on Instagram @cafleurebon @masquemilano @verinavanina @brunalessandro @riccardo.tedeschi and @idameister

We announce the winners only on site and on our Facebook page, so Like ÇaFleureBon and use our Blog feed…or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume.

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50 comments

  • fazalcheema says:

    This seems an avant garde creation like many other, with notes like red algae. It is aiming to be a chypre but it seems it also adds other nuances that makes it hard to predict the final outcome. My favorite from masque is L'Atessa of which I have two bottles. It is one of the best iris perfumes i have smelled. My choice is discovery set. I am in US.

  • I’ve never had the chance to test any Masque Milano fragrance yet. I like the presentation on them and Kintsugi sounds really interesting, it has a lot of unknown notes for me. I would love to win the discovery kit so i can fully experience this great house. Thanks for the draw, i am in the EU.

  • How ironic; I was just introduced to the word "wabi-sabi" earlier at work today!

    "Reviling oneself yields precious little. It makes more sense to attempt to embrace what exists in its fractured, reconfigured state." This quote stood out to me. I spent many years frustrated with my mental health and introversion, wondering how a person as broken as I was could ever have purpose or be worthy of love.

    I have since become involved in a youth ministry for children and teens who are under medical supervision while working through trauma, neglect and mental health struggles. I now realize that the hurt and isolation that overwhelmed me as a child make me better able to relate to these children and help them in their journey to mental and spiritual well-being.

    I am incredibly fond of magnolia and violet leaf in fragrances, and I'm sure Kintsugi would be such a treat!

    I live in the US.

  • Masque Milano is abrand for which I have a lot of respect and appreciation, and since i'm already familiar with the line I'd prefer Kintsugi, especially due to your wonderful review, dear Ida. Thank you for the opportunity. EU.

  • Freesia Rose says:

    I enjoyed reading Ida’s review of Kintsugi. What draws me to this fragrance especially is the idea behind it. Of course the description of the notes appeals to me but the description of the art of Kintsugi is so emotive but positive. Having had a “colourful” life and lived to tell the tale, there’s always a way of creating something beautiful from thoughts and actions. So many of us are Kintsugi. I have been very fortunate to try the discovery set and recommend it, there’s an olfactory journey to be had with each! Thank you for the opportunity to take part in this draw, I would like to try the 5ml sample of Kintsugi. I live in the UK.

  • I very like this review. And Kintsugi sounds very unique and nice. I have never had a chance to try anything from Masque Milano, so If I would be the lucky winner, my choice is the discovery set. Thank you for the chance. I live in the EU.

  • Thank you for this draw!  I love Ida’s anthropomorphic description of florals: “voluptuous” magnolia and “curvaceous” rose.  I long tried to rid myself of what I saw as cynicism and negativity…now that I’m older I accept myself as being delightfully prickly!  I’m in the US and would love to win the Discovery Set.

  • I enjoyed Ida's review and insight into some of the history behind chypre and glad they arr making this new fragrance without oakmoss. I embrace my flaws by trying to admit ti myself i have them and then reminding myself i have them. Hard to be at almost 40 i am getting better at it. I would like the discovery set. I have inly tried Mandala but it is a wonderful scent and i would like to try more. Thanks for the draw.

  • Ivan.napoleon says:

    First time I hear from this house.  Id love to win the discovery set. Miami Florida Thanks 

  • NiceVULady says:

    " It makes more sense to attempt to embrace what exists in its fractured, reconfigured state. Masque Milano Kintsugi, created by Vanina Muracciole comprehends this and offers us their aromatic interpretation."  I love the conceptual basis of this fragrance and this review.  Ida never fails to dellight. I would like to think that I embrace my flaws however remembering that most, not all, flaws can be improved upon with time and effort.  I would love the Discovery Set.  Thank you for a marvelous review, beautiful photography, and a generous draw.  I'm in the USA

  • BostonScentGuy says:

    I'm intrigued by everything from the art direction to the ingredients to the very artform represented here that I'd not known about at all. Love that this sounds like an earthy new-chypre rather than a super clean one. Florals, umami, herbs, sounds wonderful! I also love that it is unique but wearable. I'd love to sample this one scent. I embrace my flaws by eating all the questionable innovations I cook! Thanks for the draw I'm in the US.

  • I am compelled to comment because of Ida's remark that it is sure to be among the finest she will smell in 2019! This as well "This is a beauty with brains to match and plenty of soul, a perfume which will satisfy and intrigue the wearer and entourage. It leaves one with plenty to ponder – but au fin, its undeniable strange beauty cobbled from the unusual is compellingly truthful." Oh how I love this, Ida. I lovingly embrace my past, current, and future flaws knowing that I will gain much more by embracing and accepting them than fighting them. They are apart of each days growth for me. Tomorrow I will improve on today's flaws, most assuredly. I am in the US 

     

  • Red algae from Japan? I'm very interested. Thanks for the opportunity. Flaws? I'm still a work in progress, lol. If lucky, the discovery set, please. USA 

  • gunmetal24 says:

    What appeals to me is Ida’s description of umami-ness and how it infused and forms the profile of this scent. It is very hard to explain the fifth taste and she’s done this well. I try to apply mindfulness when working with my flaws. Sometimes you need to see it in a neutral manner in order not to react to your flaws. Based in Canada

  • damianachi says:

    I am already familiar with Times Square and Mandala from Masque Milano, so I was especially pleased to hear about this new release. A red-algae chypre perfume inspired by a porcelain bowl repaired with gold seems innovative and intriguing. I thoroughly enjoyed the description, especially with regards to the salty/savory quality of the fragrance enhanced with tart raspberry leaf and creamy magnolia. I try to embrace my flaws first by becoming aware of them. Some may be worth showcasing because they speak for my uniqueness, while others may provide a moment to learn and grow. I would appreciate the 5 ml sample of Kintsugi and I am in the US.

  • Wabi-Sabi always had a great appeal to me, and so does this perfume! The review was very personal, which I liked, since I am in my mid 40s and also start to notice all those cracks appearing in my physical body, while I try to fill the old cracks of the psyche with the gold of experience and thought. Still, since i know not a single scent of Masque Milano, i would choose the discovery kit. Living in Germany, EU.

  • Monica Beaton says:

    Such a lovely thought – finding beauty in imperfection. As we age we acquire our own cracks and scars, and can either embrace them or hide them. I embrace mine. Thank you for a wonderful review. Another incredible fragrance and something to think about. I live in Australia.

  • Giampaolo Baldoni says:

    As a flawed human being myself, I dear perfumes with the purpose to mend the cracks in my soul 

    A golden liquid which restores the missing pieces of broken words, of missed embraces, embellishes one's memories and ultimately makes one whole again, or, at least, a better self.

    I didn't know about this way of fixing broken pottery, and I was curious about the way it is going to be translated into a perfume, plus I admire Ida and Ermano's multiple skills and wearing other fragrances from Masque Milano, I have a feeling that this new "fixed" chypre will be just my cup of tea. Fingers crossed

  • I liked how you described the perfume materials used for this fragrance. It gave a very realistic impression how it smells even though red algae still makes me very curious. I love masque Milano perfumes. My favorite is Tango. Would love to smell this novelty. I am in Germany 

  • What i liked about this review was the insight on the concept of a modern chypre. Also, the asian theatre influenced images were very evocative. I have never tried anything from this house, so i’d love to try my luck to receive the discovery set. From Romania.

  • I'm more crack than pot at this point.  I've been impressed by the quality of materials used by this house in the fragrances I own of theirs, Tango and Russian Tea.  The combination of notes sounds fascinating.  I'm in US, discovery set sounds amazing.

  • The note list of Kintsugi reads uniqueness and Ida's endorsement of this being one of the finest fragrances she'll smell in 2019 has me interested. I would welcome a discovery kit. US

  • This sounds gorgeous! I have yet to try anything from masque milano but Russian tea and tango have been on my must sample list for awhile. Kintsugi sounds like an amazing addition to the house the notes sound amazing and it is based off an beautiful tradition. I remember studying kintsugi in my art class back in high school and just being wowed by the simplicity and beauty that comes from it and the whole idea of wabi sabi just resonated with me. Thanks for the amazing review. I am in the USA in AZ. I would love to try the discovery set I have heard so many great things about this house and I need to try them!

  • doveskylark says:

    As someone who lived in Japan for many years, I am always interested in how perfumers express elements of Japanese culture. I love how the perfumers here have used magnolia, amber, and raspberry leaf to suggest porcelain and salt shining in the light. I remember how some restaurants used to dispaly a small mound of salt outside their entrance (for luck I believe, or to suggest cleanliness). The nightlight indeed sometimes shines upon those salt offerings. 

    I don't really embrace all my  my flaws. For example, now that I am of a certain age, I don't wear shorts when I am out and about in the city. But I did learn to accept my grey hair and no longer bother to dye it.

    I would choose the sample set. I live in the USA. 

  • Thank you, Ida for this very rich, " colourful" review. 

    This new perfume has very interesting pyramid. And after Ida's beautiful discretion I am intrigued very much. If this perfume has overdose of patchouli, I love it.

    From Masque Milano I love Montecristo. 

    I would like to win 5 ml of Kintsugi.

    US

     

  • VerbenaLuvvr says:

    An interesting concept, a matrix that adheres our broken pieces together, even perhaps into a more beautiful vessel than before.  I think that embracing of one's flaws comes most easily with age, over time we realize that none among us are perfect and it becomes easier to accept our own shortcomings.  I live in the US and would love to win the discovery set.  Thank you to Masque Milano for this generous draw!

  • So informative, educational and beautiful review! Great job, Ida !!!

    I have never heard about Kintsugi art- so it was good read about that nice art. 

    Perfume sounds very interesting. Very intriguing description – gold ans salt duet!!

    Thank you for this draw.

    USA

     

  • I have always found this process of KIntsugi….taking something that is broken and making it even more beautiful…to be a fascinating process. I like the description of salt and gold, and the whole idea of utilizing red algae. These perfumers are finding their inspiration in the most intereting places! Thanks for the review. If I won I would choose the sampler. USA

  • From what I read, this should be an amazing, unique fragrance that I would love to try. In fact, I would love to try the whole line, so my choice would be the discovery set. I reside in Canada. Thank you very much for this opportunity.

  • The whole  description of this fragrance is what appealed to me it sounds very interesting and lovely . I embrace my flaws by practicing positive thinking everyday always. I have not had a opportunity to try anything from this house so I would love the discovery set. 

    Thanks for the chance, Krystal 

  • I have loved the word wabi sabi for a while and therefore really appreciated this review and reference to it. I have been interested in this brand for quite some time so I would love to experience the discovery set. I embrace my flaws with pure acceptance. I am in the USA

  • The review of Kintsufgi's so apt: a cerebral, reflective meditation on what sounds like an extremely intelligent and considered fragrance. I try to embrace my own flaws by realising that they're all legacies of the people, the times and the accidents which have shaped me; in the most basic sense, my flaws are what make me – and what make me *me*, rather than anyone else. The few Masque Milano scents I've tried so far have all been stunning, so I would love to try the discovery set and explore their full range. I live in the UK. 

  • I love Japanese approach to things, even it is imposible to manifest in Western world, based on consumerism and competitiveness. This fragrance sounds like a protective meditation that holds you in a unvisible silk and gold cocon. The notes are intriguing – algue and patchouli overdose, wow. Embracing my own flaws are not easy, but getting easier with age. 

    My favorites from Masque Milano seem to be, as I remember, Tango and Russian Tea, but I haven't tested properly none of them, so the discovery set would be my choice in case of win. Thank you, I live in the EU.

  • I enjoyed reading what kintsugi is.  The photos are lovely. I've seen porcelian like this, but the story behind it is fascinating!   Ida's excitment over this fragrance is contagious!  The notes sound refreshing and some are unknown to me which makes me even more curious.

      Embracing my own flaws…a good question. I think I try to remember that my flaws don't reflect who I am and that they bring humbleness which is a good thing in my opinion.  I've only experienced Hemingway, so I would like to try the discovery set.  Thanks for the chance to win.  In the USA

  • I love patchouli and the approach to fractured and cracked in this article. I am with you, Ida, sister! As for how I embrace my own flaws: I have a large Italian nose that I used to be ashamed of. Now I know it is a "nose" and that it allows me to smell fragrance notes and taste ingredients, to discern, as others cannot. I am learning also how to accept being alone and that I am never alone in a room full of books and perfume that transport me to places, times and people. I'm in USA.

  • Haven’t got the chance to try a Masque Milano fragrance and this one is interesting. Seems like Ida really enjoys this one. Would like to try the Discovery Set. Thanks for the giveaway, U.S

  • I knew of kintsugi prior to reading this and it is unusual concept to think of this being an inspiration for a fragrance. Reading the notes I am somewhat reminded of Hermes L'ambre des Merveilles, but the floral notes would definitely be an added kick to it. All in all, it definitely piqued my curiosity. I think our flaws make us whom we are. I acknowledge them and try very consciously to get the better of them, but the struggle is always there and conscious.

    Anyways, I would prefer the discovery set as I haven't tried anything from this house before. I live in the USA. Thanks for the giveaway!

  • I loved Ida's disarming honesty. "I’ve often mirthfully referred to myself as the Cracked Vessel of the Divine (emphasis on ‘cracked’)"  Waw, how I like this. 

    I believe it is a mysterious and intriguing name for a perfume Kintsugi (golden joinery) and I am now dying to learn the perfumer's take on this. I'm usually drawn to Chypre fragrances but  Red-algae, voluptuous, creamy magnolia, Japanese salty/savory notes? This sounds wonderfully quirky.

    I've never tried any of Masque Milano creations, I know, I know, shame on me. I would be thrilled to try out the newest addition.

    Every day, after I put on my chosen perfume, I don't have any more flaws. I'm simply intoxicated by the scent's power.

    Many thanks for this opportunity.

    Kindest regards from France

     

     

     

  • RaePerfumeSoul says:

    I love the way see almost feels the beauty of the perfumes. I like living it instead of just smelling it.. Great. 

    I would love to win the sampler as I am really interested to add one from that line to my small collection  

    In UK  

  • I'm a big fan of all the Masque Milano scents I've tried (L'Attesa is one of my all-time favorite scents), so I would love to try this one. I also like the idea of a beautiful-and-brainy scent – something to challenge the mind even as it delights the senses. The way Ida describes the scent as being "shot through with gold and salt" is so intriguing and appealing. There are plenty more from this house I haven't yet tried, though, so I would love the discovery kit. I'm in the US. Many thanks for the review and draw!

  • I forgot to mention how I embrace my flaws! One of my flaws is a bad memory 😉 And I try to embrace it, and other flaws, with humor. If we can't laugh at ourselves, it's too tempting to take life too seriously – and that can be exhausting!

  • I love the idea of a fragrances that embraces our flaws. Kintsugi is something I truly adore. Like a bowl that breaks into parts you can mend it back together. Like my flaws I learned to mend them back together with gold. I really truly want to smell this fragrance. I chose Kintsugi. One love! I live in CA, USA. 

  • bumbuliuki says:

    Masque Milano is a perfume brand I have a lot of respect for. Beautiful, artistic creations with quality ingredients. The bottles need a special mention.
    I've been fascinated by Kintsugi lately. I read it sometimes takes up to a couple of months to finish a piece. I love this Japanese philosophy: to embrace the aparent flaws.
    I try to aknowledge my flaws. I tend to be a bit negative and overly sarcastic from time to time, but I'm working on that.
    I've only tried Tango and L'Attesa and love them both. The discovery set would be a great way to try the rest. Thank you for the chance.
    Thank you for the wonderful article !
    I'm in the EU.

  • Elizabeth T. says:

    That bowl in the first photo is gorgeous. This is a beautiful concept. I love how this perfume uses it as the inspiration… and also how umami is woven through the fragrance. Very cool! I'd love to try it in the Discovery Set. Thank you for the review and generous draw! I'm in the USA.

  • I have read about this pottery before, I believe it might have been on this website.  I think we are far too likely to toss things away, than to repair.  Sad.  I love that it is the inspiration to this fragrance.  I've finally be come more comfortable with my flaws….it's about time as I'm 57.  I am not familiar with this line and althought Ida thinks it might be a top pick for her in 2019, I'd love to win the sampler.  Thanks for the great read and drawing.  USA.  

  • Wow! Love the article!  I would love a discovery set .   Thank you for Your generosity!  I love Raku pottery.  The bowl is similar to that!  USA

  • Ivan.napoleon says:

    Very reflective review, what most appeals to me

    First time I hear from this house 

    Id love to win this!

    Miami Florida Thanks 

  • I love the beautiful art Kitsugi and I love Masque Milano Tango one of my all time favs! This scent description beautiful Ida Thankyou so much wasabi being irregular I must and will try. I prefer the 5 ml as of tried and purchased many of this house fragrances. As for my flaws there are many I’ve tried to learn fr what I can change an except those I cannot some of them make me uniquely me! USA

  • Great review Ida! I'm intrigued by the red algae and Kintsugi sounds amazing. I loved finding beauty in things that are cracked. If I were to win, I would choose the discovery set. Thanks for the generous giveaway and I live in the US!

  • Our first sample of Kintsugi finally arrived today and it took my breath away. Drop. Dead. Gorgeous.

    P.S. Love the new website look!