Luckyscent Untitled Nos. 6, 7 and 8: Boundaries Broken + Draw for No. 7

 

 

 

 

In 2006 online niche fragrance retailer Luckyscent debuted a five fragrance series of perfumes called Untitled. The collection consisted of a simple brief for the initial five perfumers selected:

create something unusual, something that goes beyond their normal boundaries

 

 

That first collection was quite the interesting group as Yosh Han, Tristan Brando, Sarah Horowitz, Sarah Barton-King, and Maria Mcelroy all took that simple request and followed it beautifully. One of the things I liked about this collection was the thought that there would be regular installments. Alas, that didn’t turn out to be the case as year after year went by with no new Untitled releases. I would ask from time to time, of the team at Luckyscent, whether there were plans to do more and be met with the vague, “We’re thinking about it.” Until late in 2010 when asking Franco Wright this question again at the end of an e-mail I got a different answer, “We’re going to release three new ones by the end of the year.” The next question was “Who?” to which the answer was, “Susanne Lang, Hilde Soliani, and Brent Leonesio.” I felt like these three perfumers were great choices to live up to that simple brief to create beyond their normal boundaries.

  

Untitled No. 6 by Susanne Lang

 

 

 

Susanne Lang Cashmere is one of my favorite amber and incense fragrances. Ms. Lang was able to control the two strong central notes and surrounded them with a supporting cast of spice that turned Cashmere special. For Untitled No. 6, Ms. Lang used as her cornerstone an aged patchouli oil from 1998. Just as with Cashmere it is the surrounding notes which help define this smoother and somewhat softer patchouli. The spicy duo of clove and nutmeg appear in the opening phases to match the somewhat attenuated earthy pungency of the vintage patchouli oil. Sandalwood and agarwood complement the almost woody base. Untitled No. 6 reminds me of the way balsamic vinegar becomes smoother and more complex with age. The vintage patchouli oil Ms. Lang uses is identifiably patchouli but it is also smoother and more complex and something far removed from more common patchoulis out there.

 

Untitled No. 7 by Hilde Soliani

 

 

Just as with Ms. Lang, Hilde Soliani has also created one of my favorite coffee fragrances, Bell’ Antonio. It evoked a diner at 2AM with the smell of cigarettes and coffee pots cooking on burners. Untitled No. 7 moves us firmly into the daylight about twelve hours later. It is a simple mix of three notes; citrus, vanilla, and Mysore sandalwood. Ms. Soliani coaxes every nuance from all three of those notes and it creates a swirling spiral of brightness which bursts off your skin. The citrus is tart and lively, the vanilla is sweet but not cloying, and the Mysore sandalwood is rich and deeply woody. Each of these by themselves would be a beautiful centerpiece but like “The Three Tenors” Ms. Soliani has created a fragrance which allows each note the opportunity to shine as a solo but in harmony is when Untitled No. 7 really hits the high notes.

 

Untitled No. 8 by Brent Leonesio

 

 

Brent Leonesio has been one of the most exciting young indie perfumers going. He created his own line, Smell Bent, and has been creating a number of excellent fragrances for about the last year. One of my early favorites was Horny Little Devil which was a mix of an excellent cinnamon with a very dirty musk. It left me wondering what Mr. Leonesio would compose if he was going to really unleash a skanky filthy musk fragrance. Untitled No. 8 is the answer to my question as Mr. Leonesio manages to turn in one of the most skanky animalic fragrances I’ve ever run into. This is a fragrance for only those who love something like Serge Lutens Muscs Kublai Khan and Untitled No. 8 is another level on top of that. Mr. Leonesio takes civet, oud, and musk adds in a little narcissus and leather and unleashes a fragrance that seems to revel in its dirty skankiness. Civet and musk take no time in setting the feel for Untitled No. 8 narcissus and oud add more intensity and finally a shot of leather. I imagine that Untitled No. 8 will only be for those who really love the kind of animalic fragrances that many do not. Even for me who loves my fragrances on the animalic side there were times I felt Untitled No. 8 was wearing me than vice versa. It wasn’t until the third time I wore it when I realized what an incredibly balanced piece of work this was and began to let myself relax into it. Once that happened Untitled No. 8 was tamed but no less feral for it.

 

All of the Untitled fragrances are perfume oils and have above average longevity and below average sillage, wearing quite close to my skin.

Even though it took, five years all three of the perfumers who have participated in this round of Untitled allowed their past to speak  as to where their boundaries  lie, then they gleefully and successfully raced past them.

 Disclosure: This review was based on samples provided by Luckyscent.

 

Thanks to our friends at Luckyscent we are offering a bottle of Untitled No. 7 by Hilde Soliani to one commenter. Leave a comment below to be entered in the draw. Draw closes Feburary 2, 2011 

Mark Behnke, Managing Editor  

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60 comments

  • I bought a bottle of No. 8 unsniffed – it just seemed so exciting! It is exciting. I have never smelled anything like it and am very happy I went for it. Not sure how I will wear it, and may layer it with things that need more skank. I love Brent's work and anxiously await my sample pack of every collection.

  • based on your review, i want to try the no. 8.
    it sounds so dark (in my perspective in describing Fragrances)
    overall it's a great review as always.

  • mmmm…these sound great. No 7 is the one that appeals to me most. Would love to be in the draw!

  • Ooh I'd love to try No. 8, but agree that it might be more likely to wear me. I think No.7 would get much more wear so please do enter me into the draw.
    By the way, love the illustration you chose for No.6

  • Thanks for the reviews Mark. # 7 sounds the most appealing to me, though I'm curious to try the others. Not much of a skank fan.

  • First I've heard of this series – what a fantastic project and such interesting perfumers.  No7 sounds amazing – I've been considering another Hilde fragrance (she so reminds me of spring and it is around the corner!)  nice reviews and illustrations!

  • Sounds like an interesting line; the idea of different noses set loose to do what they will brings to mind Frederic Malle's exquisite line.
     
    Horny Little Devil might be the funniest name for a fragrance ever!
     
    Please enter me in the draw; thanks!

  • I'd love to try this one, I read about the skank fest that is Untitled 8, but I'm not into that, I'd love to win this Number 7 instead. Please enter my name in the draw. Thanks to you guys and to Luckyscent.

  • Somerville Metro Man says:

    Tama,

    Thank you for touching on something I meant to in my review. While No. 8 might be too much for many, as a component in layering it might be perfect. A drop of No. 8 here and there will add a skanky sensuality to even the brightest fragrances. I haven’t done it yet but I want to put No. 8 under L’Artisan Nuit de Tubereuse to really bottom that fragrance out.

    Mark

  • Somerville Metro Man says:

    Lindaloo and Deepo,

    Thanks for the mention of the illustrations but I can’t take credit for them. Editor-in-Chief Michelyn Camen chooses 99% of the artwork in my pieces. I think we should add Artisitic Director to her EIC title. 🙂

    Mark

  • Somerville Metro Man says:

    Marsi,

    I think the untitled series is even more boundary pushing than Frederic Malle. You rightly point out some similarities but with Untitled limited to 100 pieces I think it allows even more freedom to the perfumer.

    Mark

  • Oh, please enter me, these all sound so exciting and different! Kudos (and thanks!) to Luckyscent for taking a chance with these "out there" perfumers.

  • I am so excited about new creations! I am looking forward to trying them all. I also enjoy redaing about the perfumers and their ability to create the scents for us!

  • This is exciting, nice write up too. I own 2 of the Untitled fragrance line No.3 and No.5, this is a gorgeous line of fragrances/Pefume Oils and they last on the skin utterly amazing. I have my eye on No.7 and No.6….i think the new No.8 would be hard to pull off. Would love to be entered in the draw. Thank you for the generous draws you keep having……..so exciting. 🙂

  • This is the first I've heard of these. I do love Bell'Antonio, but otherwise, I am not familiar with Hilde Soliano's work. I'd love to try something new!

  • I don't know why I haven't  lost control of my credit card and bought  No 8, but I'll keep restraining myself. At least for a while. In the meantime, I would love to be entered in the drawing for No 7, which also sounds like something that I would happily wear. Great write-up and wonderful contest, as always!

  • sonia garcia says:

    Untitled No 7 sounds lovely, please enter my name in the draw, and I think is time for another trip to the Scent Bar to try all the new goodies. Thanks.

  • It's wonderful to know that someone out there is supporting the development of adventurous fragrances! And No. 7 sounds gorgeous. I'd love a chance to try it.

  • Kudos to Luckyscent for sponsoring this project. Artists encouraged to do something different and these scents are proof that perfume making is alive and well.
     
    Please enter me in the drawing. #7 with vanilla and sandalwood….yes!

  • Love hilde soliani work, she knows how to do simple fragrances without sounding boring at all.
    I'd like to participate the drawing to. Vanilla with sandalwood and from her, must be gorgoeus!

  • I absolutely love these kind of projects! Unleashes creativity. They all sound very intoxicating. I am an aged Patchouli junkie, but I also have a deep draw to Sandalwood and Oud! My private collection to these oils can attest to that:) Would love to sample Hilde's Creativity.

  • Somerville Metro Man says:

    Claudia,

    I was quite pleased that I was able to get 12-14 hrs of wear out of all three of these oils.

    Mark

  • Somerville Metro Man says:

    Sandi,

    The aged patchouli that Susanne Lang uses in No. 6 is really quite spectacular and while we are all enjoying the skankapalooza that is No. 8 I hope people give No. 6 a try. Patchouli can be as dividing a love/hate note as many but Ms. Lang has made something more refined and worth a try if you like patchouli at all.

    Mark

  • I have to try these Untitled , Number 6 and 7 sound really cool, I'm not a fan of skanky fragrances, they don't work well on my skin most of the time. Thanks for doing this cool draw.

  • Untitled 6 sounds just like my cup of tea. So many spices… yummy!
    I'm pretty sure that I would love Untitled 7, however I can't say the same about Untitled 8. Skank and me aren't good friends 🙂
    Please, enter me in the draw. Thanks!

  • #8 interests me the most but all the scents interest me as does the overall concept–please enter me in the drawing! thanks sara

  • cigarettes and coffee pots…sounds like my college years! All of these interest me…amber and incense and a dirty musk…you're singin' my song!

  • Bell'Antonio is one of my favourite tobacco fragrances. I'd love to try Untitled 7 — I love the idea of the simple citrus, vanilla, sandalwood accord.

  • Wow, what a thoughtful project by Luckyscent.  I've never tried any of the Untitled line, but will have to remedy that soon as both  #6 and #7 both sound right up my alley.  #7 sounds especially interesting, as the notes are ones shared by a few of my favorite perfumes, including Jicky and Shalimar Eau Legere.  Please enter me in the draw and thanks again for the great giveaway! 🙂

  • ah yes, smell bent.
    horny little devil makes mkk look like drier sheets. so if his untitled is even skankier — oy vey 🙂
    and his commando is divine (i mean, really: patchouly and musk done perfectly. finally.)
    and let's not even mention lumberjack werewolf: i've never smelled something as close to the real thing as the musky drydown in this.
    so really, let's all hear it for chairman brent, eh?
    as for bell'antoniio: it is my favorite soliano scent so far. and might be pretty much my favorite tobacco. really well done.
    whatever she does, i'd be interested to smell.
    hh
     
     
     

  • Many thanks to you all and to LuckyScent for the generous draw!
    These all definitely sound sample-worthy. I enjoyed the reviews.

  • enter me in the drawing, please. while sampling at Luckyscent I always ommited these scents – for no reason really.

  • Wonderful detailing descriptives of these mysterious fragrances. I am certainly an amateur nose and moreover far from a critic however these amazing text paintings have created the urge to claim one, or even three 😉 of these scents for myself. Cheers on beautiful reviews and artwork.

  • Interesting to have only three notes – citrus, vanilla, and sandalwood.  I like it.  There are so many complex fragrances out there – I love idea of simple!

  • I also blind-bought Untitled 8. It's a beast. A beautiful beast… I'd love to add another of these to my collection!

  • I was very surprised when I received by email the news of the Untitled scents. I really could not say which one I would try. But I love vanilla very much.
     

  • I know most people are interested in 6 and 8 but I think 7 sounds far more wearable so I would love to be entered in the draw.  Thank you so much.

  • Thank you so much! I would love to be entered in the draw.  I loved the illustrations, especially the one to #8!

  • Please, enter me in the draw.  I loved reading about these, and illustrations (especially to #8!)
     

  • I am always eager to know about what Hilde Soliani is up to.   My favorite of her line is Il Tuo Tulipano which is like a warm summer day in a bottle….if perfume had a color ITT would be a rich, creamy, butter yellow …it's one of my favorite "quietly, contemplatively, happy" scents.  Untitled #7 sounds just perfect and I'd be thrilled to get to try it.  
    Many thanks to the lovely folks at Luckyscent for providing the prize! Thanks to Ms. Soliani for creating the cool stuff she does, and to the talented team at CaFleurBon who put together this fab site. Y'all rock! ~ Ruth 

  • Barney–LOL –I felt the same way reading this…I wanted to run out and get some of #6 & #7 ….but I wanted to RUN AWAY from #8 ….Brent L. seems to be very good at creating exactly what he's aiming at….so when he says he wants to unleash a skanky filthy musk…I take that warning seriously! (thus the running) 😉 

  • I love, love, love no. 8.  To me, it smells like unwashed body (I wouldn't call it "body odor", just unwashed body).  It is definitely a step beyond MKK. It smells like people who have been out at the beach all day, and then returned to their cabin which has it's windows open, salty ocean wind blowing through and stroking sun-soaked skin that's been deeply tanned (or even burned a little bit). These people are lovin each other and the day. It reminds me of the air on the Adriatic sea that blows over salty skin, Yum.
     
    I would apprecite being in on the draw. 
    Best,
    Geordan

  • I must add that I just broke down and bought No. 8 at Luckyscent.  I'd been holding out to buy MKK, but I love no. 8 so much that I decided to buy it rather than MKK (I would never go through a whole bottle of MKK, anyway)!   I didn't realize until this article that this was the Smell Bent dude.  Will have to try more of his stuff. 🙂