Lucien Lelong via lelong.com

In the world of fashion there are always houses that come and go, but inevitably leave a enormous mark on history and on the art of fashion itself. Lucien Lelong was one such name. Rising from somewhat modest (yet upwardly mobile) beginnings in his father’s textile business, the man rose to such heights that his accomplishments cannot be overlooked to this very day…to even dare do so would be an injustice of epic proportions. And although his couture house closed many years ago, his contributions are still as lively as they ever were in those that have followed in his footsteps.  Lucien Lelong began his career working in the family business in the early 1900's. While the business was heavily focused on textiles, it was also a recognized as an early member of the Chambre Syndicale de la Couture – a very important point in the development of Lelong from family business to a global fashion house…and, yes, even more.

Ecole Hautes Études des Commerciales, Paris via wikipedia

After studying business at the Hautes Études des Commerciales during that last part of the decade, he took his knowledge of textiles (along with his further business education) and set out to make his own collection under his own name.  As soon as 1913 he was already gaining notoriety throughout France and the world.  However, World War I stole him away from his ambitions as he did his duty in the French Army from 1914-1917.  Unfortunately, Lelong was injured during the war and the recovery time kept him from getting to business immediately. However, his service earned the very honorable distinction of being one of the first to earn the Croix de Guerre for his duty.

Marion Morehouse Wearing A Lucien Lelong Dress Photograph by Edward Steichen©

In 1918 he set back out on his mission to transform the family business into something extraordinary.  Due to the war the original business was pretty much at a standstill. By using his business sense along with a creative spirit, he astounded the couture world with a stunning mix of fabrics and an eye for elegance and quality that simply could not be ignored.  The creme de la crème of society flocked to him.  By the twilight of the 20's his accomplishments put him right up in the highest heights of Parisian Couture – right alongside Lanvin, Patou, Poiret, and Worth. Of course, there were up and coming houses that would become a force to reckon with along with Lelong as well…none other than Chanel (Coco/Gabrielle) and Schiaparelli (Elsa). 

Lucien Lelong and Coco Chanel in Venice 1930©

Drawing inspiration from others and in turn inspiring others to create was something very important to Lelong.  One thing that caught his attention was perfume and its rising importance to fashion – as in Chanel No. 5. So, in 1924 he established The Société des Parfums Lucien Lelong for just this purpose. M. Lelong found it very important (and good marketing ploy I am sure) for fragrance to accentuate the air of the creations carrying his name like few before him.  In other words, he was following Chanel's lead (Parfums Chanel incorporated the same year).  Fortunately, it worked for both of them as the masses approved of the fragrances making them a roaring worldwide success for both company's (especially for Lelong in the United States- he soon set up perfume divisions in NYC and Chicago).

Lucien Lelong Vintage ad 1938 Indiscret

By the 1930's Lelong already had an impressive catalog of perfumes under his name.  Poised to take the enterprise further, Lelong looked to Roure to develop more. One of the perfumers used was none other than Jean Carles whose Tabu (1932) caused quite a sensation for Dana. Carles went on to design several perfumes for Lelong including Indiscret, Orgueil, Tailspin, and Tout Le Long.  Each of these perfumes are wonders in their own right, but there is one more, Lucien Lelong Elle…Elle, that remained a bit more under the radar.  Fast forward to today and it is very extremely hard to find and if you can find it, be prepared to fork over some big bucks for it to grace your collection.

Given the illustrious history, Lucien Lelong Elle…Elle is a wonderful example of the work of Carles. In ways the perfume shares the same DNA of Tabu, but it is fundamentally different at the same time.  Both share a wonderful warmth, but  Lucien Lelong Elle…Elle has a more delicate and softer/reserved air about her. We are at first greeted with an herbal mix of notes almost tea like on first application.  There is a very faint impression of Earl Gray with a dash of chamomile that fills the air. This passes by rather quickly and what begins to develop next is nothing less than pure and utter magic. From here a deep dry rose begins to develop. 

1942 Lucien Lelong 

One thing is for sure…it's very red and absolutely divine. I also get a very earthy vibe on occasion which I believe is most likely carrot seed and angelica.  It's a little green and there is a definite hint of spice that lingers in the background. In fact, it's here that the vestiges of Tabu begin to appear, but dressed in a million and one more red roses! The dry down continues to become more and spicier with carnation and sandalwood dancing together to a song of tonka and benzoin.There is amber languishing in the midst of an animalic delight of musk, castoreum, and a bit of civet.  Finally there is oak moss and patchouli to tie Lucien Lelong Elle…Elle altogether nicely.  What we are left with in the end is an animalic/amber chypre masterpiece that differs from his others, but has that very distinct Carles touch. As a sum of it's parts, the perfume reflects to me the coming together of two great minds that each took materials ranging from aromatics to textiles (that could be commonplace to some) and made them into extraordinary works of art.  Lucien Lelong Elle…Elle  is is the ultimate beauty of the Lelong /Carles legacy. 

Both Lelong and Carles went on to great success following their collaboration Lelong solidified his name in history not only as a true visionary of the business of fashion, but also as a war hero…again.  This time it was during World War II for his accomplishments while serving as President of the Chambre Syndicale de la Couture (he was elected in 1937). Through very hard work, he diligently evaded Nazi Germany's attempt to move the center of fashion from Paris to Berlin!  It was also during the war (1941) that a young Christian Dior joined Lelong alongside Pierre Balmain as designers.  After the war, Hubert de Givenchy joined Lelong. Needless to say, the rest is history.  Lelong helped make fashion icons!

Jean Carles

Jean Carles went on to design the brilliant Miss Dior with Paul Vacher for Christian Dior in 1947 – furthering the legend of Lelong's influence.  Among other perfumes he designed for fashion superstars were Shocking de Schiaparelli (also developed in 1937 along with Lucien LeLong Elle…Elle) and Carven's Ma Griffe (1946).  All 3 have achieved legendary status.  Most importantly, Carles founded the Roure Perfumery School and developed a pillar in perfumery technique known as the “Jean Carles Method”. 

Top notes: bergamot, chamomile, Mid notes: rose, carnation, carrot seed, angelica, spices, Base notes: castoreum, civet, benzoin, oak moss, musk, sandalwood, tonka, amber, patchouli

Disclaimer: Review based on a decant of Lucien Lelong Elle…Elle  provided by Diane at Perfumed Court (Thank you, you are the best!)

–Aaron Potterman, Contributor and Vintage Perfume Expert

Thanks to Perfumed Court, we will be offering a 1.5 ML sample spray of Lucien Lelong Elle..Elle which is valued at $71.99 for a draw to a registered U.S. reader. To be eligible, please leave a comment saying what appeals to you about Lucien Lelong Elle..Elle or what you learned from Aaron’s article.  Do you have any Lelong perfumes in your collection? Draw close June 26, 2018

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