LIVE, From New York It’s BERTRAND DUCHAUFOUR: An Exclusive Interview That Rocks the Casbah + Draw

 

If Luca Turin is the “Emperor of Scent”, than Perfumer Bertrand Duchaufour on Thursday October 7, 2010 at the L’Artisan Parfumeur Boutique at Henri Bendel NYC was the Sultan of Scent.

 

Remarkably unfazed by the elaborate staging for his appearance at the U.S. launch of the new fragrance "Traversee du Bosphore" which included turbaned Turkish musicians, rich Orientalist trappings and a damask ottoman inside a private velvet tent where he met with journalists, he greeted me as if  nearly four years had not passed since our last ‘face to face’ interview in New York, as if we had seen each other just last month and were merely continuing our ongoing email dialogues.

The first thing you notice about this man, unarguably one of the world’s greatest contemporary perfumers, is his composure, his unpretentious manner and individualism no matter his surroundings. Throughout the interview you will see a recurring theme of his perfumery as his challenge and the exploration of duality in  order to amplify a concept or an accord. I have called  Bertrand the ‘Rockstar’ of Perfumery on several occasions; I amend that statement… he is the fragrance world’s most intrepid explorer, always his own man, requiring no entourage, flattery or handlers as he pushes the boundaries of 21st century perfumery.

And we think he has a future on Saturday Night Live!

Rebonjour Bertrand! Wow this is some set-up. Please tell me the story behind creating "Traversee du Bosphore"?

BD: Charniere. (Translated it means a junction between both worlds) Istanbul is the door between the East and West. At the beginning the project we had in mind to make a travel fragrance that evoked a trip on the "Orient Express"; but there was a lot of difficulties with trademarks and ownership, so we didn't do that exact project. We took another idea; rather than a trip going to Istanbul, we were to be in Instanbul. So I spent ten days over there, to find the best pretext for something that was Oriental but different than the traditional oriental notes. In creating this perfume, for me it was very important to show duality. The leather contrasted with the Turkish Delight is very important  element of this fragrance.

When we last met, at the launch of "Fleure De Liane", you had just joined L'Artisan Parfumeur in a new  role, a  different relationship which I called a "Perfumer-in-Residence". Can you please explain the exact nature of how you work with the Company?

BD: Frankly speaking, I am as you called it a "Perfumer-in-Residence" on the second floor of the flagship boutique which is across from the Louvre; this is my own private 'labo'. It is a kind of a gift, a terrific gesture for me, because they want my presence inside their building. I work for L'Artisan much of the time, and for Penhaligon's too, but I am free to work on any other projects.

You have had a very active role in reviving Penhaligon's. What is your charge when you reformulate or create an new Penhaligon's scent?

BD:   First, it is to respect the brand's traditional perfumery, to build on that it and make it relevant and contemporary and of course honor its British heritage.ditional   

 

What inspired  you to compose Penhaligon's new scent "Sartorial"?

BD: In this case the Director of Penhaligon's Emily Mabel asked me to visit tailors' shops on Savile Row. I thought this was a great idea. I went three times to different workshops. I tried to capture this unique ambience in the fragrance— from the dust on the wood of the antique furniture, to the British leather club chairs where customers were waiting to try on a suit. I was intrigued by the fabrics, especially the effects of the irons steam on the  fabrics; the presence of the steam is everywhere.

Did you buy a bespoke suit?

 BD:  No, its not my style.

Do you work from a brief? How much latitude are you given in each fragrance's creation?

BD: I am quite free to do anything I want. The marketing team at Penhaligon's and L'Artisan can give me ideas and sometimes we choose together. 

Which comes first in developing a perfume… the sense of location , of place, or an idea?

BD:  Location can be a pretext or I can get a concept before picking a location. I can work both ways, first of all idea to choose a few words or a concept… for example one of duality. For example, I was in Japan two weeks ago and I got the idea of doing something around rice and black ink. Its a good concept.

Will that be your next perfume?

BD: It will be one my next perfumes. I am sure, because I want to do it and I will do it. It is a great challenge. At the same time a duality a symbol of what is Zen,Shinto and Taoism, the white and black, the Yin and Yang; the ink and rice completely symbolizes it.

L'Artisan's Limited Editon Special Harvest series last fragrance was Iris Pallida in 2007. Any plans to create a new one? If so what would you choose as the soliflore?

BD: No, not at the moment…But it is a good idea. Yes. I would want to do a jasmine. Absolutely. Jasmine sambac.. the sweetness and the greeness with the light scent of orange blossom.

How much time do you spend traveling?

 BD:  Three months a year.

What is your greatest passion outside of perfumery?  

BD: African Art, it is very important to me.

When I last saw you, you told me that and that you would return to Africa. Have you?

BD: Yes.Twice since we last saw each other. I recently went to Madagascar. Of course I will go back to Africa again.

In our last interview you stated emphatically that the blogging community must be responsible for the veracity of their information? It was quite a controversial a proclamation among some bloggers. Have you changed your opinion?

BD: No, not one bit. This is where people turn to for information. People look to you for this. It is so important.

 

You are the nose behind Frapin's new fragrance . What is the story behind it? 

BD:  The name  of the fragrance is "Les Ailes du Desir" (Wings of Desire) inspired by the movie by Wim Wenders. The owner of Frapin, called me for a meeting. He wanted me to really bring out something unexplored in the cognac note – subtle ike a glimpse. 

It was the first time I ever drank Cognac.

What do you drink?

BD: Whiskey. I love whiskey.

So many perfume lovers feel a strong connection to your fragrances. In your opinion, with so many fragrances on the market, why do so many of your perfumes resonate with the public?

BD: Because they are well done (laughs)

A lot of fragrances are well done… really…

BD: They are really rich, high quality, readable, and I try to make something explicit. Understandable. For example, in "Traversee du Bosphore" the leather note smells like leather, with a leather that is full and in front of you…

Do you remember the first fragrance you created?

BD: No, it was so long ago… I created three fragrances for Jo Malone (Editor's note: Amber/Lavender was one) and a lavender fragrance for Yves Rocher.

In order to be considered Art, must a fragrance smell good?

BD: Yes,  I think so. Yes. Yes. Yes.  It can be so easy just to make something experimental or to shock. The art of perfumery must be at the same time, innovative, harmonius, and "sent bon".

Are you a Kindle person or a book person?

 BD: What is a Kindle? 

 

 

What is the last movie you saw?

BD: It is a French Movie. "L'Amour C'est Mieux A Deux".

What is your idea of a perfect social evening?

BD: Spending time with good friends. An intimate dinner.

Reflecting on your past journeys, is there a place that you have been that you wish you could bottle?

BD: Again Africa… and oh yes, the desert. Notes of sand. Very minimalist and warm, cold …vast.

Anything you would like to tell me before the next time we meet?

 BD:  Here I will write it for you: "For Michelyn with all my friendship and to our next crazy going out in NY. Big Kisses, Bertrand".

 

 

– Michelyn Camen, Editor-In-Chief

 

Thanks to L'Artisan Parfumeur we are holding a draw for a 1.7 oz flacon of Bertrand Duchaufour's Timbuktu, the masterpiece that was one of only a very select few to merit five stars in Perfume the Guide by Luca Turin and Tania Sanchez. To be eligible you must leave a comment on site. Draw closes Wednesday, October 13th at 11:59 p.m. EST.

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32 comments

  • Great interview! I can;t wait to try that new Bosphore perfume, what a fabulous concept. Mr. Duchaufour has such a creative mind.
    Timbuktu is wonderful, I agree with the 5 star rating. To me it smells ;authentic; in a way that so many of the Orientalist perfumes fail to capture, perhaps because it is not sweet at all.

  • It's through Timbuktu that I fell in love with Mr. Duchafour's creations. 🙂 Please enter me for a chance to win a bottle of it.

  • chayaruchama says:

    I like your mojo, gal ;-D
    I love that Bertrand is opinionated, and his own man….
    What a delight- the man, and the interview.

  • Was he having fun or what ? And what fun to read .
    Can't wait to sniff Traversee du Bosphore , seriously !!
    Do not enter me in the draw , since I won the last one . Time for someone else to win .
    Fantastic interview Michelyn !

  •  We spent about an hour, which was a real treat. Much of our time together was a dialogue, and didn't make it into the interview.  Bertrand is incredibly cordial and gracious, which may not come across, as well as dedicated to his work.  Exceptionally honest. Unplugged is a good word.

    Everyday life is a fount of inspiration, a word, a gesture can lead to his next perfume. Bertrand has a calmness about him, yet is quite intense, and as you see here playful.

    I think he was a great sport to do the video which of course is a take off of SNL, even though he wasn't familiar with the show.

    Chayaruchama… he is indeed his own man!!!! and that is what is special. And he never stops  thinking  and observing; “he has a beautiful mind”

  • Michelle Hunt says:

     
    Thank you for a great interview.  I enjoyed reading about Bertrand Duchaufour, an innovative artist who fulfills his vision his own way.  I loved the video clip, it is delightful to see the sense of humor behind the genius!  (and now I'm desperate to try Traversee du Bosphore as well!)

     

  • Great job on the interview! Also, I just love everything you are doing on this blog. All the different personalities work well together, and it's fun to have such frequent updates. Very impressive.

  • Great interview, Michelyn!  You have  captured a playful side of M. Duchaufor, which hasn't been so evident in other interviews.  It's a pleasure to see.  You have really expanded my understanding of the man and of his perfumes. 

  • Thanks, Michelyn, for that wonderful interview.

    You always go far more than the "perfumer" image. We get to know the person.
    Bertrand Duchaufour is really a great person, and I was really happy to meet him in his "labo" in Paris for "Traversée du Bosphore"., few weeks ago I am not surprised he appreciated seeing you, even after all these years.

    What were your thoughts on his new creation ? Is it more leather than turkish delight on your skin ? Or that "sucre glace" does it a lot too ?
     

  • I was lucky enough to attend the launch of both Fleur de Liane and Traversee du Bosphore, and both experiences were wonderful.  I always look forward to Duchaufor's new scents, and am especially intrigued by the rice and ink scent he's contemplating.  Please enter me for the drawing, as I'd love to get intimately reacquainted with his older masterpiece as well!

  • Please enter me in the draw. I am sorry I missed the event at Bendel, but thanks for the interview here. I already love Duchaufour's Sequoia, Mechant Loup, and Dzonghka, and imagine I will love others too when I get a chance to test them!

  • Duchaufour is such a nice man. I loved this interview!
    I'm very intrigued by Traversée du Bosphore. It must be a delicious fragrance. I can't wait to try it.
    And what to say about Timbuktu which hasn't been said before. It's my favourite L'Artisan perfume, I think it worths five stars and I would be very happy to win a bottle 🙂
    Please, enter me in the draw. Thank you very much!

  • Emannuelle- the leather accord really comes thru on Didier. I definitely get a green floral opening and  the turkish delight at the dry down.But without the leather , BD said the Turkish Deligjht would not have amplified. It is a ever changing fragrance, so complex…. I wasn't at the Sniffa  event Joanna and Laura This interview was prior to the event, which is why I was able to get so much of his time.

    The longevity on this perfume was 6 hrs 🙂

    look for a review soon by Sr Editor Mark Behnke!

  • Wow. That's all I have to say for now. I'll come back later and say something more substantial, like another wow.
    Thanks for this fabulous tete-a-tete , I had oodles of fun reading it 🙂

  • taffynfontana says:

    Michelyn Great interview!! I almost felt like I was sitting right next to you listening in on your conversation. I am impressed on how open and approachable Mr. Bertrand Duchaufour is. His newest idea about rice and black ink sounds exciting very futuristic and traditional at the same time and I just love the simple smell of steamed rice,very comforting.
    Thanks again for the great read 🙂

  • Charming! I'm thoroughly enjoying the glimpses into our favorite nose's heads =)  Even better if I have some Timbuktu to go with it.. ha 
    Oh and steamed rice and ink, Mr. Bertrand you know we'll hold you to it!

  • I am crazy about BD!!!  Loved the interview.  Thanks for sharing it with us.  We love you, Bertrand!  (and thanks for the draw, M!)

  • Dear Michelyn, again another great interview! I love Bertrand D. and I loved the way you interacted with him.
    I loved the question if a perfume should smell good! This is exactly what i thought about many fragrances in the past and most recently about Thierry Mugler's Womanity. A scent can be a concept perfume, but if it is not wearable, it is just a curiosity for us –  the fragrance evaluators/writers/critics – the rest of the world would simply not buy it. And in the end, fragrances should please consumers.
     
    Lovely interview of a lovely lady & perfumer,
     
    best wishes,XX Simone

  • Wonderful interview, and I especially loved this quote: "The art of perfumery must be at the same time, innovative, harmonious, and 'sent bon'".  Amen to that! 

  • What a huge talent and at the same time, a down-to-earth fellow. He loves whiskey! Somehow, I just love knowing that. Thank you for bringing this interview. Timbuktu is one of my favorite fragrances–I think I'll wear it today. Please enter me in the draw, if I am not too late.

  • He is adorable! Timbuktu is my husband's most cherished scent (perhaps because it drives me crazy!). 

  • Loved this interview.  This perfumer has such personality – he is so earthy and grounded how does he create such ethereal masterpieces?  I thank you for the exploration of levels of character and I totally loved your intro.  Breaking new ground as always!  Just amazing Michelyn
    Gigi

  • mariotgomez says:

    Michelyn, I always enjoy your interviews. I am looking forward to Duchaufour's work with The Different Co.

  • That is gorgeous. Timbuktu is really a masterpiece and I like Traversee du Bosphore too. And as I hope I’m going to Istambul in november I will be able to check all the scents on place! Thanks Mr. Duchaufour for creating such lovely perfumes which bring us to exotic places without actually going there.

  • No questions about “Petite Mort” for Marc Atlan perhaps BD’s most shocking scent to date? I for one am waiting for the male version! If BD formulates it will be worth every 100 Euro bill!