Laboratorio Olfattivo Sacreste Review (Roberto Drago/Luca Maffei) + Bright Incense Draw

Behind Shadows, photo by nocturny

Most incense fragrances are smoky affairs, calling to mind the censers swinging during liturgy or the contemplative aromas of the mountain temple. Hazy, dreamlike, sooty … these are the descriptors that usually come to mind. But brightness? Not a word that word I’d normally associate with a scent centering on two incenses and a multitude of woods. But then, I had never smelled Laboratorio Olfattivo Sacreste before. The newest edition to the brand’s Black Collection, Sacreste pops with unexpected, brilliant fizz before eventually revealing its warm incense-woods heart.

Luca Maffei and Roberto Drago collage by MC

Created by Luca Maffei, again working with creative director and founder Roberto Drago, (they co-created 2017’s Vanhera, 2016 Nun and My Lo)  Laboratorio Olfattivo Sacreste is a complex, woody incense with unexpected bright touches, like the sparks from a roman candle igniting against the dark.  The incense is right there from the start, but is buoyed by that springy, alcoholic, acidic top note. This zingy start gives the multilayered incense room to spread out without becoming heavy.

Incense burning in temple, Vietnam, stock photo

There are two different incenses at work here: a bone-dry, sandpapery smell and a second incense that rapidly takes on some sugar. I swear for a few moments that I smell root beer, with its old-fashioned, horehound birchiness. That citrusy note of the opening comes back in small ripples, this time accompanied by a punch of black pepper. As I continue to smell Laboratorio Olfattivo Sacreste, the incense notes start to take on a variety of subtle characteristics: gasoline, wood ash, the vanillic tinge of papier d’armenie.

Austria, Styria, Stuebing, Weathered roof of wooden house, photo by Westend61

Layers of woods join in the middle stage. Notes from several trees gather, dominated initially by the turpenic greenness of cipriol. I don’t really pick up guaiac, but the cedar comes barreling in, smelling of pencil shavings and old wooden sheds. Now, the Turkish coffee aroma of cardamom swirls in, adding its dusty off-sweetness. Given all these dense notes, it is a testament to Maffei’s deftness that Sacreste does not get weighted down by them, even when joined by the resins that follow.

One of the nicest surprises of Laboratorio Olfattivo Sacreste is that late in the composition’s trajectory, elemi and labdanum get their moments rather than disappearing into the musk and woods base. That unmistakable animalic tang of labdanum is a perfect complement to the sweeter incense note, while the piney smell of elemi is a smart partner for cipriol. Hours later, I’ll be damned if the notes are not still overlapping and receding around each other. I get hits of arid incense, then of sweet; of cedarwood, then pepper and cypress. And every so often, that party girl fizz of the beginning crops up, as if to say incense can be celebratory as well as reflective.

Notes: Cistus labdanum, elemi, cardamom, saffron, hyperessence of incense, fumencens, hydrocarbon resin, cipriol, black pepper, Virginia cedarwood, guaiac wood, cashmeran, ambermax, musk.

Disclaimer: Sample of Laboratorio Olfattivo Sacreste kindly provided by Laboratorio Olfattivo. My opinions are my own.

Lauryn Beer, Senior Editor

Laboratorio Olfattivo Sacreste

Thanks to the generosity of Laboratorio Olfattivo, we have  two 30 ml bottle of Laboratorio Olfattivo Sacreste to give away to one registered reader in the U.S. or EU. To be eligible, please leave a comment saying what appeals to you about Laboratorio Olfattivo Sacreste, where you live and whether incense conjures any memories for you.  Do you have a favorite Luca Maffei or Laboratorio Olfattivo perfume? Draw closes 12/16/2018.

We announce the winners only on site and on our Facebook page, so Like ÇaFleureBon and use our blog feed … or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume.

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38 comments

  • I’m not familiar with this house, but I’ll definitely be looking into it after this review. The reviewer had me at “a bone-dry, sandpapery smell,” but noting the scent of pencil shavings locked it in! I’ve had an ambivalent relationship with burning incense over the years, going through periodic binges and then nothing at all. Lately, I find I prefer the scent of unburned incense and smudge sticks. Incense conjures memories of a long-defunct hippie coffee shop that I spent many an hour in, old roommates in the Texas Hill Country, and my best friend. I’m looking forward to learning more about this scent and perfumery. I’m based in the U.S.

  • Laboratorio Olfattivo Sacreste stays loyal to Laboratorio Olfattivo style. It has incense and labdanum that create heavy and dark aura. Incense reminds me most of religious establishments including churches and buddhist temples. I am in US.

  • This sounds great, Incense is a very spiritual scent for me, and the cool thing is it can be blended many ways. Thanks for the giveaway! In the USA

  • I’m a huge fan of incense! This brand is new to me, but I’m definitely going to research their fragrances. USA

  • I am so interested in the idea of a sparkling incense fragrance. I liked the way Lauryn described that the effervescence gave the incense “room to spread out”. I enjoy incense many forms, but I’d have to say the word conjures up the safe, familiar feelings of Catholic mass. Two Luca Maffei perfumes I love are Nobile 1942 1001 and Perris Monte Carlo Rose de Taif. There may be more that I’m not aware he signed! I live in the US. Thank you for this generous draw.

  • Sacreste sounds great from the note breakdown. Right up my alley. Inscense makes me think of my mid twenties when I was burning nag champa inscense all the time. Kind of miss that. Never tried anything from Luca Maffei or Laboratorio Olfattivo.

  • I’ve never had the chance to try anything from Laboratorio Olfattivo but i’ve heard a lot of nice things about their juices. I would love to try Sacreste since i do love 90% from the notes, i guess it’s a very good fragrance. Thanks for the chance, i am in the EU.

  • Heard of the house but not yet smelled it’s offerings. Very descriptive review of Sacreste. Would love to wear this on the coldest days of winter. US

  • I am curious about the two types of incense and how they interfere. I have never tested anything from this house and I see Sacreste like a good starting point.

    I am in EU. Thank you!

  • I’ve never smelled anything from this house, but I do love incense in all its forms. I don’t associate it with churches, but rather with other experiences.
    Wonderful review and a very generous draw. Thank you. I’m in the USA.

  • I love so many of Lucas perfumes and this one sounds like the ultimate in incense scent ever. Perfect for cold winter. You got me at animalic labdanum! Would be delighted to try it, I am in Germany

  • My favourite from Luca Maffei is Archetipo by Mendittorosa, a bright (!) forest scent to my nose. His Vanhera, the dirty vanilla, is also very good and thus my favourite from the house of Laboratorio Olfattivo. Would love to welcome Sacreste in my collection, please let me win this to Germany. Thanks for the draw!

  • Very interesting review! I hope I will like this new perfume because like incense in all forms- but sweet incense as it mentioned in this review- I love more. Unfortunately, I am not familiar with Laboratorio Olfattivo perfumes. I like Luca Maffei creations, rspecially Rossa Boheme Onyrico.
    US

  • I would have expected aldehydes for lightness. I’d be interested to see how Luca Maffei achieves this! Thanks for the draw. I don’t know any LO perfumes so this would be a good chance to discover them. I live in EU.

  • This one sounds nice! All the incense and woods, I am sure they make a great winter perfume. I am in EU. Thanks!

  • Those woods and incense and sparks sounds wonderful. I don’t have any associations to incense, aside from patchouli and incense wafting from neighbors down rooms in college, in the us, thanks for the wonderful review and the generous draw!

  • Thanks for another great review, Lauryn! What I find interesting in your review is this- ‘There are two different incenses at work here: a bone-dry, sandpapery smell and a second incense that rapidly takes on some sugar.’ Sounds like a very exciting and complex incense centered fragrance. Incense reminds me of sacred and religious occasions and events. I haven’t sampled Laboratorio Olfattivo yet and I’d love to get my nose on this. Thanks for this opportunity. – California, USA

  • middleagedandmixed says:

    I’m interested in Laboratorio Olfattivo Sacreste because I’m a fan of incense fragrances but have yet to smell one that is described as bright and zingy. Incense in fragrances, especially these days, take me back to my travels to Asia, more specifically South Korea and Japan. I have not yet tried anything by Luca Maffei or Laboratorio Olfattivo but would love to. Have a great weekend with love from Seattle, WA

  • Seriously, how can any incense lover not smile at these words? ” That unmistakable animalic tang of labdanum is a perfect complement to the sweeter incense note, while the piney smell of elemi is a smart partner for cipriol. Hours later, I’ll be damned if the notes are not still overlapping and receding around each other. I get hits of arid incense, then of sweet; of cedarwood, then pepper and cypress. And every so often, that party girl fizz of the beginning crops up, as if to say incense can be celebratory as well as reflective.” Great review as usual, Lauryn. I am in the US and I adore incense.

  • All those amazing notes! WOW! I would love to smell this. I burn incense pretty regularly, but certain incense scents transport me to different times in my life. Lovely review! Massachusetts, US

  • prasida.perfume says:

    I’m curious if this is more like burning herbs on a fire as opposed to burning an incense stick. I have strong associations with Nag Champa which was popular with the granola crowd in Austin in the nineties. I’m still looking for that incense-focused perfume that will make me fall in love, as my granola girl days are not something I enjoy in perfume, lol. Anything different than typical incense peaks my curiosity!

  • Ivan.napoleon says:

    Fisrt time hear From this house. It d be great yo try this one. It appeals the notes and presentation.
    Incense for me interlude!
    Miami Florida Thanks

  • Root beer, pencil shavings, Turkish coffee, and cardamom….yes, to all this! I love attending mass when they use the censers (didn’t know this was the name….thank you!). I also light frankincense on charcoal. I like it smoky!
    I have heard many good things about Alkemi from this house, but haven’t tried it yet.
    I live in the USA.

  • I’m not familiar with this so I don’t have a favorite Luca Maffei or Laboratorio Olfattivo perfume. But I love that it has woody incense.
    I live in California and I think of Sunday mass whenever an incense comes to mind. Most Catholic Churches use incense.

  • This sounds so wonderful. I love fragrances with depth and are still not heavy. I also love the notes and I really want to try this brand. A more mass appealing incense fragramce or unique sweetness sounds origanol too.

    I live in the USA, havnt smelle this brand yet. Incense reminds me of campfires if it is dark, but if it is light it reminds me of fog.

    Thank you for the chance to win !

  • Love damiris I think that might have been Pierre Guillaume
    I would like sacreste. My favorite from Luca Maffei is Masque Milano atessa
    I am in the USA

  • I have tested or smelled anything from this house and am curious to explore the house and its quality of fragrances. I would like Sacreste. I am in the USA, CA.

  • I have so many dark serious memories associated with incense and the bright opening definitely sounds refreshing and modern. So I’m happy to hear that the effervescent note still intermittently sparkles throughout. I haven’t tried anything by this house before. I live in the USA. Thanks!

  • Being orthodox christian i’m quite used to smelling incense , and i really like it.Add some vanillic tone , balsamic and if it’s a bit spicy i’m in.
    Tnx for the opportunity.
    My favorite Luca Maffei fragrance is Nea from the house of Jul et Mad from Paris.
    Back and forth between USA and Scotland (part of EU) – 1 week in US->1 week in Scotland , and so on , so basically both US and Scotland at the same time.

  • I’m not familiar with this brand. But this fragrance sounds like a darker but still lovely Christmas scent. I would very like to try it. The scent of incense reminds me of church. Thank you for the draw. I live in Europe.

  • My earlier memories of incense are from the church. What I like about Sacreste is that elemi and labdanum get their moments rather than disappearing into the musk and woods base, I think this is very refreshing.
    Thanks for the draw, I live in the EU.

  • Incense ,sugar , boozy , ashy and resinous – sign me up.i do not own full bottle made by Luca Maffei , but a 10ml decant of L’attesa .When I think incense I think about church.Usa most of the time , and Germany from time to time.Thank you

  • I enjoy incense on it’s own and incorporated in perfumes. My earliest experience with incense is in an Orthodox church I went to with my grandmother.
    I’ve read a lot about Labortorio Olfattivo lately, but never got to try perfume from them. Now, Lauryn’s review has sparked my interest.
    Some of my favorite Luca Maffei’s creations are L’Atessa Masque Milano and L’Oree du Bois Jacques Fath.
    My favorite part of the article is: “Sacreste is a complex, woody incense with unexpected bright touches, like the sparks from a roman candle igniting against the dark” Wonedrful description.
    Thank you for a great article, Lauryn.
    I’m in the EU.

  • Turkish coffee, sugar and cardamom , ash – already a nice team on the floor.Add some pepper and the main player – incense and we do have a winner…in my book at least.
    To me Luca Maffei masterpiece is L’Atessa – on my 2nd bottle.The best iris based scents for the past few years , and one of the beset ever…period.
    Transcendent scent imo-must have for every fragrance lover.
    I do love burning incense sticks
    Thank you for the review and the draw.
    Virginia USA or London UK at least 97/100 times.

  • When the weather gets cold, I enjoy wearing incense based fragrances so much. I love the collection of notes in this one. I’ve never smelled anything from this perfume house but this particular fragrance has me wanting to explore more of their line of scents. Whenever I smell incense type fragrances, especially ones with frankincense, it makes me think of church when I was a little girl.
    I live in the USA.

  • It is interesting for me how multilayered and complex this perfume is. Although incensey, it is also light and bright. Then a bit dry, sweet, spicy, woody, ashy, vanillic, resinous, animalic … All the different notes overlapping and receding around each other in harmony.
    Incense is one of my favorite perfume ingredients. It reminds me of silence.
    I live in the EU.

  • I love incense in so many of its incarnations. I don’t have many non perfume associations with incense, I think I discovered incense with Avignon and Messe de Minuit. I would love to try a bright incense as opposed to the ones I usually have. I live in the USA.

  • I live in Concord, NC, USA. I have never tried this house and this fragrance sounds wonderful. The incense blending with the sugar notes sounds quite interesting and coming also with a cypress note makes was enough to get my attention with this fragrance.