House of Matriarch “Something Old, Something New…” Fragrance Review + Reader’s Choice Draw

Every so often you come across truly amazing perfumes. What makes the perfumes from this house so interesting, aside from how they smell, is that a) they are American, b) they are natural and c) they are a brilliant blend of esoteric and earthly. The “motto” of House of Matriarch is “Redefining Fine Fragrance”.  All of this perfumer’s fragrances resonate with the elegance of truly fine perfumes; they just happen to be natural. Upon sampling these perfumes, I was very impressed and had a hard time wrapping my head around the fact these were “naturals”.


House of Matriarch was launched on Christi’s 36th birthday (November 28, 2009). All of her perfumes are in custom painted bottles. Each bottle is lacquered with a hue or tint that harmonizes with the energy of the scent. Brilliantly blending actual essences and capturing subtle energies, these scents show that one can stay true to core beliefs, respect Nature, myth and history while bringing them to life through perfumery. 

 

 De stiny is the company’s biggest seller…and I can see (and smell) why! Crafted extremely well and contained in a flacon the color of the summer sky, this scent is the perfect synergy between simple beauty and subtle complexity. It contains two types of jasmine and a rare gardenia yet it is NOT your typical “white floral”. The initial burst of cubeb pepper and resinous galbanum is tempered with tansy and fresh (but not overly sweet or juicy) tangerine. The heart is an utterly divine mélange of flowers (neroli, gardenia, jasmine grandiflorum and tuberose) so diverse they create a beautiful four part harmony. Each flower lends its voice and none outshines or occludes any of the others. “Not too spicy and not too sweet” is the perfumer’s description, and I’ll do her one better and say “not too floral either”. Yes, it has these beautiful blossoms, but the magic of this particular perfume is it exalts these flowers, yet you do not feel someone smacked you in the face with a fresh bouquet. The distinct base of vetiver and oak moss (both dry and airy) coupled with benzoin’s warmth keep this green and earthy without ever once feeling dirty. Sambac jasmine keeps what would otherwise be a rather masculine finish utterly unisex. Sunshine and flowers in a bottle, without smelling trite or phony, Destiny makes my inner tree hugger sigh with delight! Sillage: good. Longevity: above average.


Forbidden, with its flacon of dark red/orange ochre, is a daring and superbly orchestrated blend of historically feared and even outlawed aromatics. If I had to pick one perfume, from this company, and say it was my favorite: THIS would be “the one”. It opens very intensely with absinthe and damiana (both hallucinogens) fused with cannabis and lantana. A precarious balance of darkly floral and bewitching herbs that never falters or slips too far to either side, this perfume is almost narcotic. After being warmed and relaxed, you float effortlessly into a heart of slightly medicinal (but not unpleasant) cypriol, a restrained (but still naughty) tuberose and a delightful very “true” mushroom note. All of this is rounded out by a blend of peppers that take the edge off the cypriol and tames the often overbearing tuberose. The mushrooms add a dark moist vegetal aura to the already heady and intoxicating mix. The base (a home-made root/herb tincture and precious woody essences) makes this perfume become something between a witch’s brew and an ancient flying potion. Many may fear (from the listed notes) that this is off-putting or just too bizarre…let me assure you, it is neither. Many things bloom and lurk in the nighttime hours and the deepest forest, Christi has shown us these are not as “bad” as they may seem and they are actually quite beautiful. As you would with any of the above substances, handle this perfume with care and apply sparingly! Sillage: great. Longevity: way above average.

 

Alpha, in its deep forest green bottle, captures in the olfactory the essence of masculinity. Constructed of notes and blends that correspond to the attributes that define an “alpha male”: nobility, strength, courage, vigor and honor; this scent is a true green woody incense lover’s dream. Choosing not to follow the classic “eau de cologne” formula, this cuts right to the chase with an opening of cedar, sativa (herbal and green with hints of flowers and spice) and the most beautiful cypress note I, personally, have ever experienced in a perfume. (And I adore cypress!!) The body of this perfume is composed of incense. Not sweetly burning smoking cheap cones made of sandalwood and amber available everywhere in head shops…but a stunning blend of Egyptian frankincense resin and Christi’s own blend of exotic incense powders. Down to earth yet strong in a tender way, this scent reads as possibly overbearing or at least brusque. It is neither of these things, but is instead an idyllic blend of cool forest greens paired with genuine woodsy notes fused with incense. Its finish of brown and white copal (natural resins) with creamy subdued sandalwood and heavenly oak moss paints, from start to finish, a perfumed picture of strength and beauty as big as all outdoors…but intimate enough to be cuddled right up next to. Sillage: good. Longevity: above average.


Francesca, in its deep blue violet bottle, smells every bit as elegant as its name and is as royal and aristocratic as the flacon’s color. The aroma of “fresh flowers” is often very hard to capture, especially when using aged aromas, concretes, tinctures and absolutes. Here they are not only present, but they shine! Its prelude of mimosa, boronia and ravensara (an evergreen tree in Madagascar and the Comoros Islands) is densely floral and whimsical at the same time. The addition of white sage adds a soft herbal facet to this regal gem. Created for those who love real floral aromas and don’t want to see them lost in an all-to-common base of musk, amber and/or patchouli, this maintains its floral nature from beginning to end. Each successive sniff of my wrist is distinctly floral; yet the flowers continue to change and evolve (imagine a kaleidoscope for the nose). Creamy pollen-laden lilies, delicate violet leaves, sensual gardenias and even spicy carnations and wondrous champaca spin all around you, disappearing and reappearing in myriad combinations. The whole affair is tinged throughout with a ferny green lushness and kept coolly shady by guaiac wood. The dry down keeps you from floating away on these heady blooms by resting on opoponax, broom and iris root. Moss and grasses add the perfect accent to this “bouquet” without detracting from it. Exotic, beautiful and captivating, this is a true modern marvel and is (an unheard of) 33% parfum concentration. Sillage: very good. Longevity: amazing.


If the words “natural perfume” frighten you or make you roll your eyes, I implore you to try these perfumes. Without a single synthetic or drop of any aromachemical, Ms. Meshell has done what she set out to do: redfine fine fragrance. For once there is truth in advertising!

Disclosure: Reviews based on samples sent to me from House of Matriarch.

Thanks to the House of Matriarch and Christi Meshell we have a draw for a reader’s choice 10mL rollerball of any fragrance on the House of Matriarch website. We have three winners to draw two in the US and one internationally. To be eligible leave a comment naming which House of Matriarch fragrance would be your choice and whether you live in the US or elsewhere. We will draw the winners on July 15, 2012 via random.org.

We announce the winners only on site and on our Facebook page, so Like Cafleurebon and use our RSS option…or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume

John Reasinger, Editor

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80 comments

  • Linnea Wiedeman says:

    I love the hand painted bottles and that the colors go with the scents. Destiny sounds the most intriguing but Francesca would be my second choice.. Thank you for this wonderful draw.

  • I would love to try Forbidden, tuberose and mushrooms!!!
    I’m not from the US (i’m from Spain!)
    Thanks for the draw.

  • I would LOVE to try the Ambre Vie, thank you for the wonderful opportunity.
    I’m international. 🙂

  • Cheesegan says:

    I live in the US and I think I would choose the fragrance that is the author’s favorite, Forbidden,

  • It’s hard to chose- so many sound amazing! I had not heard of this house, and it’s many intriguing perfumes. I would choose Forbidden. I live in the US. Thanks!

  • I am happy to discover another perfumer unknown to me. Destiny sounds like my summer scent. I live in the US

  • I would like to win Destiny. Or Ambre Vie. Or…

    I live in the United States.

    Thanks for having this draw! Hurrah for Christi and Matriarch!

  • John, to me, reading your wonderful reviews is always like reading a juicy book. Gosh, I think Alpha is the one I need to try. I just absolutely love cypress, and your description, “strength and beauty as big as all outdoors…but intimate enough to be cuddled right up next to” makes me really want to experience this one. I’m in the U.S. Thanks for the great review!

  • I was blown away by her fragrance, Carmine, and loved reading about the four you reviewed so glowingly here. If you’d kindly enter me in the draw, the one I’d like to try is Francesa. I live in the US.

  • I’d love to try Destiny, think hot weather makes me crave white florals~
    I’m in Taiwan =)

  • I love these bottles and labels. I’d be really excited to try Francesca and I live in the US. Thanks for the draw 🙂

  • Wow great review John!!! I have been dying to try Christie’s perfumes for quite some time. Francesca is my favorite from all and I live in Greece! Thank you!!!

  • Ooo those sound amazing!

    I think Francesca sounds absolutely lovely and unique and what I am craving even though they all look great.

  • Ambre Vie for me. I have been wondering about it ever since I saw it mentioned in a review here a while back.

    I am in the US.

  • I am a huge fan of Christi`s work’Carmine is a masterpiece and instant classic)…I would love to win her new Fracesca which sounds such a regal and delightful scent..I am i France
    Thank you for the draw..

  • I find Alpha the most appealing, as I love cypress!
    I live in Spain, thanks for the draw!

  • I admire and applaud Christi Meshell’s approach to perfume making…no use of synthetics in perfumery is quite hard to achieve in order to make good and structured perfumes and she succeeds brilliantly..
    I would love to win oM..

  • All Matriarch perfumes sound divine but I’m most drawn to Forbidden and Francesca.I live in Ireland. Thank you for the draw

  • I am intrigued by all of them, but if I have to pick one I will take Francesca.
    I live in US.

    Thank you for bringing up Matriarch. Something new to discover.

  • I would love to win Forbidden. That scent pyramid looks both naughty and intriguing… just what I like!

    I live in Australia. Please count me in as an International contestant.

  • Francescaaaa……beautiful name and gorgeous fragrance!!!! Francesca! Like Paolo e Francesca in Alighieri’s Divina Commedia. Francesca, the absolute love and passion! Francesca, italian name….like my country, Italy!

  • I have wanted to try Destiny for some time, so I would choose that one. I live in the US. Thanks for the draw!

  • Amberosmanthus says:

    I’m so excited to hear about these perfumes. I will be doing some more exploring. The bottles and fragrances sound amazing. I would love to try Destiny or Carmine. Thank you for the chance!

  • I met Christi at the San Francisco Fragrance Salon, and was amazed to learn that we’re practically neighbors, living about 10 minutes from one another. We will definitely be getting together soon! The salon was hectic, but I seem to recall that I tried something of hers with tuberose, and that I could still smell it clinging to my watchband the next day. It was lovely. The description of Forbidden sounds really interesting, but so do the others, too.

  • As an incense lover I guess I would pick Alpha,but I would prefer to try a vial sample of every perfume from Matriarch instead. Everything about it tells me they are all must try!I think I would pick more than one.
    I’m international.

  • With a name like “Forbidden”, that one would have to be my choice. Oooo but Destiny sounds amazing too.

    I live in the U.S. Thanks for the draw!

  • I live in Vancouver Canada and would like to win any of these amazing-sounding perfumes. I suppose the Alpha or Forbidden sound most intriguing, but I’d be happy to try any of them.

  • I live in the U.S., and how could I resist a fragrance named Forbidden? Sounds positively dangerous

  • I’m in the US

    Hmmm… Forbidden jumps out at me immdiately. I love the ‘vibe’ the color and the copy! Ditto for Carmine. Alpha and Ambre Vie also look very appealing….But have never sniffed, don’t know which would suit best….

    I would choose Forbidden.

  • I live in Greece. I was going to choose differently but your review got me itching to try Forbidden. Hope I’ll have the chance

  • i live in the us — and it’s been very hard to decide between forbidden and alpha.

    forbidden wins (because of the sweet baked earth note mentioned on the hom website.)

  • TimeaZsofia says:

    If I would win, my choose would be Ambre Vie!

    I live in Hungary, Europe.

    Thank you for the draw.

  • I’m not a boy but I think that the perfume I’d love would be Alpha, because I usually like woody, green fragrances which contain incense.

    Thank you very much! I live in Spain (Europe).

  • rosiegreen says:

    I live in the U.S . I appreciate the chance to hear about great natural perfumes. All of the perfumes sound great. My choices would be 1) om, 2) Carmine or 3) Forbidden. Thanks so much for the draw.

  • stephanie says:

    Definitely forbidden…..sounds so well underwordly! I’m so excited to check these out. I live in the USA!!!!!

  • I would love to try Destiny, have heard/read many good good things. I live in the US.

  • In an odd way it would feel too narcissistic to choose Francesca! So, not a hard ask to do something else with these wonderful descriptions and Titles- I would love to try Forbidden, the flacon of dark red/orange ochre sounds wonderful and the mention of ” outlawed aromatics”…hmmmm! . – absinthe and damiana fused with cannabis and lantana, can’t go past this!

  • I live in NewZealand.
    In an odd way it would feel too narcissistic to choose Francesca! So, not a hard ask to do something else with these wonderful descriptions and Titles- I would love to try Forbidden, the flacon of dark red/orange ochre sounds wonderful and the mention of ” outlawed aromatics”…hmmmm! . – absinthe and damiana fused with cannabis and lantana, can’t go past this!

  • What a lovely review! They all sound heavenly but Alpha caught my eye with its beautiful cypress note. Man would I ever like to smell that on my man. “Down to earth yet strong in a tender way” describes my hubby to the ‘t’. It might even be his signature scent. Thanks for the draw. I am international (Canadian eh)
    Suzy

  • Oooo I’d love to try Destiny. White flowers! Pepper!
    I live in Canada. 🙂
    Thanks for the draw!

  • Live in the US. Love to try Francesca! I am a sucker for Boronia.
    Thank you for the draw.

  • Destiny would be my choice even though they all sound wonderful and I do live in the US.

  • Wow! I’m completely captivated by the descriptions and reviews of each fragrance! Well done, Christi. Seems I need to spend some time getting to know your work!

    Would love to win a sample of Francesca.

    Liz Cook
    One Seed

  • What a beautiful line. I would love to try Forbidden, which sounds so mysterious, dark and alluring! I am an international CaFleureBon reader.

  • wow! I have never heard of some of the ingredient used in her perfumes…. and I am utterly intrigued 🙂
    I live in Israel, so that would make me an over-seas, but I have family in the US who would be happy to bring with them any perfume ingredients for me whenever they come to Israel, so I can fit in the ‘locally’ section as well, your choice, I guess.
    I would want to win forbidden, because I am so curious how she made those all work, and what the overall effect is. I had a personal very close relationship with some of the forbiden substinces included in the perfume, gratefuly, no more, but am curious how they can be combined to make perfume 🙂

    Thank you for a wonderful review and giveaway
    Hemla

  • Deborah Weber says:

    What lovely and intriguing-sounding scents! I’d love to put my name in the drawing hat for the sunny Destiny.

  • I really would love to win Destiny. It sounds like my perfume! White flowers and pepper etc… wow. I am an international reader.

  • Ambre Vie sounds so amazing, as do all of these. Thanks so much for the draw! US resident here.

  • I’m intrested in “Francesca” and I’m an international reader
    Thanks for the draw

  • I live in the US and I would choose Epoch if I could. If not then I would go with Destiny!

  • Tourbillion says:

    I think I would like to win Francesca, though it was almost a draw with Destiny. I am in the USA.

  • I would love to try Forbidden for it’s unusual ingredients. I never smelled such a fragrance. I am an international reader.

  • Francesca sounds just beautiful!

    My hat off to a talented perfumer who can work with some tricky botanicals!

    Warm regards
    Holly of Australia

  • I live in the US and would love to try Forbidden or Francesca. It was too hard to decide! Thank you for the draw.

  • Michelle U says:

    Forbidden sound very very interesting! I am a reader from Europe!

    Thank you! Wish you all the best!

  • What a fantastic review! I have Destiny (LOVE IT!) and tonight I sampled Francesca and it is absolutely intoxicating! Christi Meshell has true talent and a superb nose…thank you for creating something so delightful! 🙂
    ~Patti, USA~