Frederic Malle Portrait of a Lady: Patchouli is Prince + DRAW

 

 

 

 

Dominique Ropion’s Portrait of a Lady is Frederic Malle’s first new edition in a year, long awaited by many.

 

 

 

 

Monsieur Ropion has already created a litany of exquisite fragrances for MalleVetiver Extraordinaire, Carnal Flower, Une Fleur de Cassie, Geranium Pour Monsieur.

<:o:p> 

 

Some may not be aware that he authored Caron’s well-loved Aimez-Moi;  Nasomatto Nuda, Costume National Homme,Givenchy’s Ysatis, Amarige, Very Irresistible, Kenzo’s Jungle L’Elephant and Le Tigre, Sisley Soir de Lune, Lalique Le Parfum, Mugler’s Alien and Eau Luminescente, VW Anglomania, RL Safari, CK Euphoria, Armani Code and Mania…

 

 

Many Burberrys…and more.

 

It’s a loooong list, my friends.

<:o:p> 

 

The inspiration for Messieurs Ropion and Malle stemmed from Henry James’ novel of the same name written in 1881.

 

 

[James was an admirer of Henrik Ibsen, and one can feel the affinity early on.]

 

 

 

 

 

Its protagonist, Isabel Archer– undergoes erotic awakening and multiple personal realizations throughout; her intelligence and desire for freedom challenge   Victorian propriety and those around her.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Portrait of A Lady opens with promise.

The tangy, juicy raspberry / rose accord is enchanting and hopeful.

Cinnamon and clove portend all good things, spirited and fulsome.

What ensues is a dark, dusty path to the back door of the Victorian Era.

<:o:p> 

 

In this realm, Patchouli is Prince.

 

 

 

 

 

Ambroxan as well, alas.

<:o:p> 

 

With so much patchouli going on- coupled with a hefty dose of Ambroxan-

 

 

Portrait turns somber, raw-boned, and dry.

It dwells in places where the light of day is not readily visible; a grey, closed space where one feels the extraordinary lack of fresh air.

 

 

 

 

 

A weathered traveling trunk in which silkens and woolens of great price were placed with patchouli itself- its camphorous nature deterring insects.

It is this exotic quality which endeared patchouli to Europeans far and wide and birthed a rise in Orientalist fervor.

 

 

 

 

 

Portrait will not share its charms with me, despite the fact that nearly all fragrances succumb to me sooner or later [a middle-aged woman must have her few

compensations!].

 

 

 

 

 

It bears family resemblance to Etat Libre’s Rossy De Palma [broodingly complex, fascinating] and Tom Ford’s Noir de Noir [earthy, round, voluptuous] in its rose/ patchouli duo, but is not balanced in the manner of either of these.

 

 

 

 

Rather, it is remarkably successful in portraying the conundrum of feminine Victorian life-

The avowal of true affection and passion, subverted by societal convention and constraint.

The withering of woman like an autumn leaf.

 

 

 

 

Photo Credits:



Patchouli- corbis.co.in
King of Hearts- mikkosgameblog.com
Dominque Ropion- flickr.com
Emily Sargent- flickr.com
Isabella Stewart Gardner-jssgallery.org
Victoria and Albert dancing-rubell.wordpress.com
Victorian trunk- antiquemystique.com
Victorian shawl-pasttrends.fuzzylizzie.com
Bakst poster-futuremd.blogspot.com
Victorian visions of orientalia- wareseeker.com
Rossy with rose-jasonw.eu
Truffles-mimifroufrou.com
Kidman and Malkovich in Portrait of a Lady-qag.qld.gov.au
Withered leaves on slate-redbubble.com
Bottle image- courtesy of Hillary Prim

 

 

 

 

 

 

Ida Meister, Senior Editor

 

 

 

 

Enter to win a 8ml spray of Portrait of a Lady, by leaving your comment  on site.  Draw ends Dec 10,2010 at midnite.

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31 comments

  • Ida, 
    interesting review.  I worry about the withering quality you mention and the spikey-woody aspect that some others mention due to the ambroxan.  anyway I must try it, if possible. Please enter me in the draw. 
    Kate 

  • …now that just sounds fabulous! If it smells half as good as you have made it sound, I would bathe in it.

  • I wasn't nuts about this one.  I liked it, but there were Carons out there doing this that were about $250 less.  Sorry dargeeling, I'm cheap as old chips.  No need to enter me into the draw, and as ever a treat to read you!

  • I LOVE Rossy da Palma by ELd'O, so I'd be interested in comparing the two, please enter me in the drawing.

  • I've read several reviews of this and still cannot tell whether I will adore it or it will turn out to be wrong for me. I would love a chance to figure it out for myself. 🙂

  • Ida, your review had me at "Portrait turns somber", although I'm not sure you meant it as a good thing 😉  I must admit the press has me itching to try this; I am quite an admirer of Dominique Ropion's work. 

  • mariotgomez says:

    I had the pleasure to be able to smell this scent on a cotton ball, it smells beautifully crafted as all Federic Malle scents do.  I do love Etat Libre’s Rossy De Palma fragrance and love the picture you have of her.  Ida, thanks for the wonderful article.

  • Interesting background information re: Mr. Ropion. Thanks for that. And the beautiful photos. I love patchouli. I would love to try Portrait of a Lady.

  • Dear Ida,
    I always enjoy reading your reviews! I haven't smelled Portrait of a Lady, yet, but I'm a huge fan of Dominique Ropion's work, so I'm really looking forward to try his newest creation.
    Rose fragrances can be a little challenging for me as I'm rather picky with my roses & don't like them to be too dry.
    Please enter me in the draw – thank you 🙂

  • First of all, visiting your site is a daily ritual…ok sometimes hourly 🙂 I enjoy your reviews and your insights immensely. I am a BIG fan of Une Rose. I literally "douse" myself in it…and make no apologizes…even though I'm probably chocking half of my neighborhood! I've read that PoaL is similar to Une Rose but with a Montale "oud" twist. I'm not a big fan of oud in general, but I'll always give Malle a chance…or two…or three.
    Please enter me in the draw!

  • Wow, what a wonderful prize! 😀
    I love a lot of Frederic Malle perfumes, and especially Carnal Flower, so I think Portrait of a Lady must be another winner for me.
    Please, enter me in the draw. Thank you!

  • Abdulla, Thank you for visiting us daily.. Hourly?we want you to get out and smell the roses,( une rose or the flowers) , and then visit again.-The team at cafleurebon

  • Terry DeMeo says:

    Oh Ida, Henry James plus Ropion plus patchouli.  A gal could get the vapors!  It sounds like a sure thing for me.
    Won't you please enter me in the draw.  Thank you!

  • esther Hernandez says:

    Ida what a beautiful portrait you have painted, It makes me want to re-read my Edith Wharton collection. Portrait of a Lady sounds delicious. 

  • Ida,thank you so much for your article and all the pictures you chose-dying to try this,love and adore carnal flower,please enter me in the draw!

  • chayaruchama says:

     Ah, my friends !
    Thank you for taking the time to read this, in our harried holiday season 😉
    Portrait felt more historical for me, rather than anything else…
    Each must try for him/ herself.

  • Very interesting review… intriguing. I am a fan of Ropion and most things Malle. I had not heard that this was so patch-heavy. Hmmm. I'd love to be in the draw.
    Also, I may be one of the few who greatly enjoyed Campion's dramatization of Portrait.

  • Thanks for the intro to this scent, Ida. I love Rossy de Palma and patchouli, so I am curious to experience this one. Not so much a fan of dry, musty scents…but, who knows?

  • There are such extremely different reactions to this fragrance that I'm curious to take some time to study it! Would love to have a sample…..

  • I own and love Vetiver Extraordinaire by Ropion, but usually wear more exotic scents by Amouage and Montale…this sounds like it may be perfect for me and I can't wait to try it. Please enter me in the draw!

  • Sounds very interesting.  Thank you for your wonderful review.  I would like to try it. 🙂 and thank you for entering us in the drawing!

  • I was just reading about this fragrance – came up with I slipped down a rabbit hole reading about Amarige. What a pedigree! Would love to try. 🙂