La Danse (I) by Henri Matisse (1909)
Roja Dove, the man has been described as a connoisseur’s connoisseur of perfume, and certainly his knowledge as a perfume historian is reflected in his book entitled, The Essence of Perfume. His perfumes reflect a classical style rich in history, yet grounded in modern perfumery. My introduction to Roja Dove Parfums left me interested in four distinct chyprés each a variation on the theme. There are 23 fragrances in total. Chyprés have always been difficult for me to describe. When I confessed my predicament to Clement Pinard at Osswald, NYC, he agreed, and said, according to Roja Dove chyprés are nothing more than a suggestion. What a fascinating idea that notes are not meant to be experienced as they are, but really as mere hints of themselves. To understand a chypré you almost need to relax and let it unfold before you, but they can also be relentless and want your undivided attention. Once you give in though, they begin to make themselves known.
Before me are four Extraits that are quite complex, the first is from Imperial Collection rightly so.
Sergei Diaghilev (l.) and Souvenir Program by Henri Matisse for Ballet Russe de Monte Carlo (r.)
Diaghilev was originally commissioned for the Victoria and Albert Museum’s exhibition on Diaghilev and the Ballet Russes. Roja Dove wanted to create a fragrance that was reminiscent of that time, and that would pay homage to Diaghilev, a visionary for better or worse. He turned away from Russia’s Imperial Ballet and took dance into the early 20th century with his Ballet Russe. Dance would no longer be a pretty thing, rather it would have a body and soul. This classic chypré lives up to its name; it is orchestral and sophisticated. It is a larger than life fragrance with a delicate breathy heart. Floral and fruity notes are joined with spicy warm undertones. It hovers on the skin, heliotrope, blackcurrant, and peach live with cumin, clove, and nutmeg. Labdanum, styrax, vanilla give it body and soul, and makes this one fly off the shelf.
Nijinsky's Ballet Slippers worn in Le Spectre de la Rose
Fetish for Men is a straight-up leather chypre that comes out of the bottle like a flame, sharp and potent, and ends up dreamy and ready for its dark, leathery, smoky, and tar-like close-up. Welcome to the world of castoreum. Its power and strength is real and stems from its complex base. Heart notes include Violet and Fig. I like to imagine these two sweetly standing in a field of leathery abundance. This has a long-lasting gorgeous drydown. Fetish for Women is a leathery green-floral chypré. The leathery aspect takes an earthy-green turn here, galbanum is in the house along with patchouli and vetiver, creating a warm, dry cloud. The beautiful surprise about this fragrance is it kind of lightens up as you wear it. A juxtaposition between its dryness and its heart of Jasmine, Tuberose, Ylang Ylang, and Rose keep its floralcy humming throughout the composition. A beautiful powdery drydown is its final statement.
Photo from Nijinsky's Rite of Spring
Unspoken for Women is a floral chypré whose lovely opening accord has so much movement. I can almost see the molecules bouncing off each other. As it settles it is reminiscent of powdery toasted oats that brings an immediate comforting quality to the extrait. As the top dissolves the heart begins to bloom and we are flooded with an abundance of jasmine and a slight sweetness. I am left with a twiggy and warm lingering bouquet. Notes: aldehydes; lavender; bergamot; jasmine; rose; ambergris; vetiver; oakmoss; orris; vanilla; labdanum.
Thanks to Osswald NYC we have samples of all four Roja Dove Parfums Valerie reviewed Diaghilev, Fetish for Men & Women, and Unspoken for one US resident. To be eligible to win please leave a comment with which of the four appeal to you or tell us about your own love/hate affair with chyprés. Draw closes October 15, 2013.
–Valerie Vitale, Contributing Editor
Editor's Note: Roja Dove is the International Ambassador for Great Britian's Great Campaign
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