February 2, 2016
Oriza L. Legrande is one of the oldest perfume houses extant, with a heritage going back almost 400 years. They secured the patronage and Royal Warrant of King Louis XV and added more warrants from the Royal Courts of England, Italy and Russia along the way; by 1900, nearly two hundred years later, they were at the top of their game, winning the Grand Prize at the World’s Fair.
Oriza L. Legrand Cuir de L’Aigle Russe and Oriza L. Legrand Paris Boutique 18 Rue Saint Augustin
Yet another century has passed,and we're still talking about them! Over the last few years, Owner and Creative Director Hugo Lambert has restored Oriza L. Legrand to its former glory and has opened the archives and recreated many of their fragrances, based on the original formulas. As a lover of vintage perfume, I was thrilled to discover this storied house whose packaging harkens back to a time when details mattered from the flacon to the presentation.
Nikolay Bogdanov-Belsky – Reading a Letter (1892)
Cuir de L’Aigle Russe was originally released in 1892, and translates as Leather of Russian Eagles. The description references the Russian aristocracy, rooms hung in golden brocades, gleaming samovars holding smoky teas. The opening of Cuir de L’Aigle Russe is bright and herbal/floral and somewhat mentholated, reminiscent of scented geraniums after a good rain. I occasionally get the slightest hint of rose, as if it was being carried on on a breeze to my window as I dressed for the evening’s gala.
Grand Duke Serge, colorized. He is arrayed in 17th century dress for the great imperial costume ball of 1903
It’s rather intoxicating our here on the terrace among the flowers as I await the Grand Duke. Even before I see him, I sense his presence I begin to notice the unmistakable scent of his leather gloves. Not his boots, nor his saddle, but those gloriously smooth, supple gloves, their fragrance amplified by the warmth of his skin. It’s rather intoxicating, really, out here in the garden with the soft breeze and flowers all around me, being gently led by this charming man and his gorgeous leather gloves back into the house; by now
The historical Amber Room is located in the Catherine Palace near St. Petersburg
I am enchanted, mesmerized by the roses in the air and the suede-like softness of those gloves… and suddenly I realize I have been led to the room hung with golden brocade. Only it isn’t brocade at all, it’s amber, and the smokiness in the air isn’t tea – it’s labdanum, styrax, benzoin and frankincense;I am lost in a haze of resiny, ambery bliss. The seduction is complete.
The sillage of Cuir de L’Aigle Russe is excellent and longevity is overnight. I get 8 hours of strong scent, and could still smell the resins and a bit of bergamot 12 hours after applying. The leather accord is particularly well done and brings back memories of my grandfather’s tannery where the skins for fine ladies gloves were treated with rose and other herbs.
Disclosure: My thanks again to Twisted Lily for sending me the sample; their kindness didn’t affect my opinion (or fantasy!) at all.
Tammy Schuster, Contributor
Art Direction: Michelyn
Please read our reviews of Deja Le Printemps, Oeillet Louis XV, Relique d’Amour, Reve d’Ossian. Muguet Fleurie, Foin Fraichment Coupé Violette du Czar and Chypre Mousse
Thanks to the incredible generosity of Hugo Lambert of Oriza L. Legrand we are offering three registered readers anywhere in the world a special discovery kit with 2ml x all 15 perfumes . To be eligible please leave a comment with what you enjoyed about Tammy’s review, if you have ever tried any Oriza L. Legrand fragrances and where you live. Draw closes 2/5/2016.
We announce the winners only on site and our Facebook page, so like CaFleureBon and use our RSS option…or your dream prize will just be spilled perfume.