FRAGRANCE REVIEW: Happ & Stahns’ 1922 Lily Sanguine: An Essay in Quiet Opulence

Every year when the winners of the Fragrance Foundation awards (FiFis) are released, I hold my breath.  Sometimes, it seems to me that it  is not necessarily the best perfumes that win, but the ones that had the highest sales. This year I am happy that many of my favorites received awards. One, in particular, that deserved acclaim was 1922 Lily Sanguine which won for Specialty Brand (women’s) Fragrance of the Year. It is carried exclusively by Anthropologie and can be purchased from their website or at one of their many stores. 


Happ & Stahns is a little known company that is immortalizing The Grand Tour in perfume. This was a trip taken in the 19th or early 20th century by well-to-do young ladies as a finishing course to their educations. It stretched across Europe and to the edges of the exotic Far East. This perfume is meant to exude the exoticism and mystery experienced by these ladies in the 1920’s and though modern it does just that, with a tip of its hat to retro floral perfumes of that era. It was the follow-up to their 2010 release: 1842 Alba Rosa.


When researching this, the first thing that took my breath away (before even smelling it) was the flacon. The bottle is opaque amethyst glass in the shape of a cushion crowned with a sculpture of a pair of birds in what appears to be marble or alabaster. Birds of this type were often used as motifs and decorations in that era. The next thing to grab my attention was the perfumer selected: none other than Rodrigo Flores-Roux, one of my favorite  contemporary perfumers( Rodrigo Flores-Roux  was the nose behind Tom Ford Private Blend Jasmine Rouge which swept both sides of the FiFi 2012 Nouveau Niche Category-men's and women's).

The name of the perfume is an homage to the  sanguine tiger lily  which has an aroma that evokes pale burgundy velvet and the warm scent of heavy golden pollen crystals. This juice did not disappoint…On spritzing this on my skin it was like pressing ones nose into a huge stargazer lily and inhaling deeply, all the while being surrounded by a harmonious chorus of petals. A superlative blend of creamy neroli, the unique essence of acacia flowers (similar to those in Givenchy’s Eau Torride, only much more subtle) and the delicate fruity breath of hawthorn blossoms result in something truly breathtaking. Orange blossom absolute adds a slightly sweeter, more citric, floral depth and keeps this from being “just another lily soliflore”.

 

So far, this doesn’t sound all that oriental, I know. The dry down is where things get really interesting. A cool silken iris softens (rather than amplifies) the floral structure. One feels like they are no longer in a garden surrounded by dozens of lilies, but have instead slipped into a kimono in a room with dark wood paneling surrounded by quiet luxury. As this perfume evolves it draws closer to the skin; all the while feeling just as opulent as it ever did, but infinitely more “cozy”. Balsam and a deep (but not too “dark”) vanilla settle to something sensual and intimate. Without any patchouli, amber or sandalwood anywhere in its composition, the perfumer has created something exotic yet not extravagant: something utterly modern with a vintage heart and soul.

 
Sillage is above average, then fades to a skin scent after about an hour and longevity is above average.

Disclosure: This review is based on a very generous decant provided by Happ & Stahns.

John Reasinger, Editor

Writer's Note: Though this scent is marketed towards women, I see no reason why it could not do equally well on a man,  especially if he “wears flowers well”. Neroli, iris and orange blossom have been used in men’s fragrances for centuries, after all. It should also be noted here that though this is an “eau de parfum” it is neither loud nor cloying. My aunt, who is “sensitive” to most perfumes, even remarked how beautiful this was. She is allergic to lilies (and especially their pollen); yet she enjoyed smelling this, with no deleterious effects, as she does like their scent a great deal. In summary, the jus is simply marvelous, the flacon a work of art and  at $70 USD for 100 ml Happ & Stahns’ 1922 Lily Sanguine is every perfumista’s dream; true luxury that does not bankrupt

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6 comments

  • Thanks so much, John! I, too, have been impressed by the limited-edition offerings at Anthropologie. They obviously have a good perfume buyer…

    Now I’m going to have to try Lily Sanguine based on your splendid review. (-;

  • god, this sounds wonderful.
    and how could you not love a perfume house named happ & stahns?
    they deserve success on that witticism alone 🙂

  • Mary Evans says:

    I had never heard if this perfume before and truthfully I don’t really follow the Fifis
    I love Rodrigo Flores Roux works especially for Arquiste and probably will order this unsniffed

  • This sounds lovely!

    Of all the mass-distribution stores, Anthropologie impresses me the most. I love the Happ & Stahns bottles and thought that Rosa Alba smelled very good. Now I want to try Lily Sanguine too (and those bottles are JUST SO CUTE!)

  • Okay, now I’ve seen and smelled it, John! Wow, the bottle is really something: that’s a veritable sculpture on top! The bottle is also beautiful even without the top.

    This fragrance reminds me a bit of Leonard Leonara. There seems to be a strong benzoin-like resin… What do you think? Have you smelled Leonara, John?