Until two years ago I was convinced Estee Lauder scents were for “little old ladies”. While shopping at the men’s counter at a local department store, I caught a whiff of something dark, earthy-seductive and musky floating in the air. I followed my nose to the Lauder counter and found out it was Youth Dew!! Upon sniffing and sampling many of the older scents (all of which are still available), like Cinnabar, Spellbound and Private Collection, it dawned on me that these had more “oomph!” than anything on the modern men’s or women’s counters today do. I was an instant convert. It dawned on me that maybe these little old ladies “know what’s up”!
When I heard Estee Lauder was releasing its very first unisex scent, I was overjoyed. As I read on, in the press release, I was CRUSHED to find out it was only to be released in the Middle East and (of course) Paris. My discontented grumblings were overheard by the SA at the Lauder counter and she did not even know about its existence, nor did her regional manager. I immediately began an online quest to have what (I thought at the time) would be the ultimate fragrance. A dear friend had a friend who picked up a bottle for her in Paris, and I bought a half an ounce from her in a split. When it arrived, I was so excited! When I sprayed it on my arm, I was impressed (for sure) but was not as thrilled as I had hoped…at least, not at first.
The fragrance arrived in mid-March, when the jonquils and tulips were giving way to the warmer late spring blossoms. Days were getting longer and temperatures higher. Wood Mystique was definitely a more “cool weather” scent, with its warmer notes, its dark intrigue, and full floriental nature which was better saved for autumn, or winter, I decided. Now that it is November, I have dug out this beauty and given it another try. It is every bit as beautiful and stunning as I had hoped it would be.
On first re-applying this to my skin, I was surrounded with an elegant and almost fierce rose de Mai distillation. Wood?! Maybe they should have called it ROSE Mystique! The top notes (listed) are peony and pink pepper. These give a softer and very sensual aspect to the roses and add even more piquancy to their sharp green stems, like the thorns that come on the rose itself. Some may find this a bit too “rough” or off-putting, but remember just because a rose pricks you does not make it is any less beautiful. As it develops, however, the barrage of rosiness subsides somewhat, as various flowers join the roses to make it a bit more balanced.
Flower Study by Jacob Marrel (1613-1681)
Rich ylang ylang keeps it warm and full, as jasmine teases you with her naughty yet playful nature. Iris, often powdery or overly metallic, is the perfect counterpoint to the heady rose as its cooler green aspects prevail, and it quiets and calms the heart with a lovely smoothness that still allows the rose to shine; but not blind you. Mimosa’s velvety sunny aroma lightens the almost oppressive rose even more until it becomes more of a leading voice in a chorus than one voice singing over the others. As all this is going on, you almost do not notice the deep and rich tones of the base as they begin to emerge and it is here that it becomes unisex.
It was almost an hour after applying this that I began to detect something more than the flowers and spice. A deep and exotic accord that was composed of patchouli, intense cedar and resinous benzoin began to rise and swirl about me, from out of nowhere. The slightly medicinal and almost smoky oud appeared, garbed in leather, reminding me of one of those swarthy and sexy scimitar-bearing warriors on horseback from The Mummy movie series. How could something so very feminine become so earthy and devastatingly masculine? THAT is, without a doubt, mystique.
The bottom line: If you like big rich floral scents that dry down oriental and mysterious smelling, as I do, you will be very happy with this. It is unisex, if you have patience with its development. Those who are not into flowers and are looking for something solely woody, incense-rich and spicy may want to look elsewhere. It is definitely more exciting and interesting than Wild Elixir or any Pleasures or Sensuous flanker released in the last five years. It is just a shame Estee Lauder did not make this a worldwide release. Was it the ultimate fragrance I had hoped it would be (from the ads and the press release)? No. Was it something worth seeking out and owning? Yes, without a doubt.
Wood Mystique is an almost niche quality fragrance from a house often looked down upon by many perfumistas and without going all heavy or “attar” on you, captures both an intense feminine sensuality and blends it with the exciting and intriguing nature of mysterious notes and aromas from far off lands. Fantasy never lives up to the reality, or so they say. That may be true, but I am more than happy to be wafting something not readily available here in the United States; and for the price (around $2 US dollars per milliliter) it pleases more than many other higher priced perfumes do. Sillage: above average. Longevity: very good.
I want to share my Wood Mystique with one lucky reader and so I am offering a 2.5mL decant as a giveaway. To be eligible leave a comment describing a perfume you had to go to great lengths to obtain or your favorite Estee Lauder fragrance. We will draw one winner on November 10, 2012.
We announce the winners only on site and on our Facebook page, so like Cafleurebon and use our RSS option…or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume.
–John Reasinger, Editor
Editor’s Note: At press time, it has come to my attention this IS, in fact, available online to US consumers for $175.00 for the 100 ml EDP via Macy’s, but I have yet to see it in stores or at the counters.